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Thread: Manual Boost Controller

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
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    The lack of clicks could be because it is almost all the way out. You could keep mucking around with nipple sizes as it sounds like you're using almost no adjustment to get that 11psi because you still aren't getting enough air through it to actually be able to bleed it down. That might explain that weird behaviour. I wouldn't have confidence in it either with how its going now and you're right, bleeds take a lot of setting up which is why they get a bad wrap. Many people try them, never get them set up right, don't get the results they are told they'll get and ditch them with a bad review quick smart.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
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    Brisbane
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    It's honestly the weirdest setup I've come across in terms of boost control... I've had a few cars running standalone, and they are easy to bleed off.. as well as standard computer vehicles which have again been easy to work with... this n75 is a pain in the ass! they made it that way on purpose I would imagine

    I have bought an A/F ratio meter, so that goes in soon, and I wont be raising the boost above the 13psi I have at the moment without having the ratio in check...

    Next problem that's just occurred, and I was kinda expecting it.. I've fouled a plug. I'm going to get some NGK v-power copper plugs to replace whatevers in there... and gap them at 0.032. Does that sound about right??

  3. #33
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    Sep 2013
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    nsw
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    Standard electrode plugs are normally 28thou in the 1.8T in Polo's BJX motor but that may differ to the mk4 motor.
    Yeah I have heard that any form of MBC inline with the N75 can be really tricky. Some guys run diaphram type adjustable pressure regulators inline. They differ in that they are primarily pressure regulators rather than flow regulators (which adjust the build up of pressure by restricting flow). Subtle difference but could be significant.

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