Without the ability to monitor AFRs and detonation, you'll never actually know what 'safe' is.
Do some of the basic mods, and then get the ECU re-mapped. Trying to fool the ECU with bleed valves, etc, won't net you a reliable result.
Hey guys,
I've been searching the webs and have been getting some pretty conflicting reports on using a Manual Boost Controller to up the boost. I'm not looking to go retarded, just give myself an extra 4Psi. I'm punching 10Psi at the moment, and I think 14Psi would be pretty safe. I've read about doing a Diode mod? but I don't think our cars even have the MAP sensor hooked up... I've also read that under WOT if you have a MBC hooked up it runs fine, but if you part throttle, it send the car into soft limp mode...
Some people say they just leave the n75 hooked into the intake, but cap off both nipples, and hook in the MBC instead. Others run the MBC in parallel to the n75, which I couldn't see doing anything at all, except maybe help with boost spikes...
I'm bloody confused... I just want to wind it up 4 psi... why is it such an issue?
Kris
Without the ability to monitor AFRs and detonation, you'll never actually know what 'safe' is.
Do some of the basic mods, and then get the ECU re-mapped. Trying to fool the ECU with bleed valves, etc, won't net you a reliable result.
'07 Transporter 1.9 TDI
'01 Beetle 2.0
Running an MBC in parallel with the N75 is done to reduce your peak boost. I needed to do this to reduce overboost after a few breathing mods. To up your boost you would place the MBC in series with the N75 ie the line running from inlet pipe to the N75 and start to add restriction until you see the boost increase you want but there's a risk. Don't run the MBC as a standalone with the N75 un-plumbed. The car will flick to peak boost setting on about 1/10th throttle application if there is any load. Its either vacuum or full boost and no ability to modulate boost with your foot/ECU in between. Its like driving a light switch.
Alternatively you could just explore the different types of N75's. The ECS tuning N75 which is a rebadged N75H will get you a bit more boost. Or you could piggy back a 2 pound spring onto you wastegate actuator for a bit more snap.
But as mentioned above, you are just playing a guessing game with this kind of stuff if you're not logging or doing it tie in with other mods. Just do air in air out mods first and go from there or if you don't want to go down this $ hardware mod route, just buy a stage/phase 1 flash tune and be done. At least then you know nothing is going to grenade on you.
It's breathing really well... both ends....
But I guess what I'm asking is... where do I plumb the MBC? and will it give me a weird part throttle response??
I've done this... I'll see how it goes...
I've usually only used MBC's on cars with standalone which is really easy... you just tap into the reference line from wastegate actuator to intake boost reference...
I'll go for drive and see..
Ok... So I did it as above, and I did get above 10Psi... Just way too much above 10Psi and fuel cut/timing retardation kicked in... I had screwed the turbosmart boost tee all the way to minus, but still it just boosted off its head..
first run, it went up to 17-18Psi and cut, then everytime I tried to play with the tee and wind it up or down to try find a sweet spot or whatever, boost was cut at 15Psi...
Am I missing something?
No way to get 4 psi extra from it with a bleed valve. Even with it being 15 years old. It's still more sophisticated than stuff from the 80s
In no way am I trying to piss on your parade Gav... not at all... but with a bit of playing around, I have adjusted the boost up to 15psi. True it spikes up to 15psi and comes down to 12psi in 2nd and 3rd, but 4th and 5th both peak at 15psi and stay there pretty much all the way through the rev range..
And it wasn't difficult at all....
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