How to: Improve your Factory Dogbone mounts

**ranton-inc** · 21-04-2009, 08:48 AM

...Here We Go, There will be several Parts to this process

NB: The Idea to modify This Mount came when I was at the Exhaust Shop with my Mate Timmay Trying to workout why his Newly Installed Downpipe was rubbing, while standing under the car and inspecting where the downpipe was rubbing the penny Dropped on what exactly I had to do to fix the issue at hand, i had had my own mount apart once replacing the bushes with Poly Urethane ones which were removed after a month due to extreme Cabin Discomfort.

So I knew what components the OEM Mount Consited off. Took the Plunge made the Cuts via guestimation and Viola, We killed several birds with one stone, With the hunt to resolve one issue we resolved several others by dumb luck, those being
- Numb Feeling Clutch & Gear Engagement - Gears Graunching due to the excessive engine swing

I still strongly beleive this to be the most simple yet effective free modification you will ever do on your MKIV (Golf, Beetle, Octavia, A3, S3 or similar)

Part 1: Removal of Dog Bone from Vehicle

Tools required:
- Jack
- 2 x Jack Stands (please for the love of pete dont work under a car suspended by a Tyre change jack or a Hydraulic one)
- Torque wrench
- 16mm socket
- 13mm socket
- Loctite thread locker to be used in Part 3: Reinstallation

Step 1: Jack up your car, high enough so that you've got enough room to work. The thingy in the top left of this picture is the dogbone mount you'll be taking out.

Step 2: Undo the 2 x 16mm Hex Head Bolts that are bolted Thru in to the Transmission

Step 3: Undo the 2 x 13mm Hex Head Bolts that are bolted thru in to the Subframe of the vehicle

Part 2: The Disassembly -> Modification -> Reassembly
Tools required:
- Bench Vice or a way of Vertically & Horizontally Clamping the Mount
- 16mm socket or Spanner (don't laugh i used a crescent)
- Hacksaw or Thin Cut off Saw
- Loctite thread locker

Optionals
- Wire Brush for cleaning crap off the mount once its apart
- Lithium Grease to breathe a little life back in to the rubber and protect it a bit better.. can always be done later

Meet your standard sloppy hinderance AKA Dogbone mount

Step 1: Clamp down the mount in the vice (any direction it doesn't matter but as pictured is best) And Start to undo the Pictured 16mm Thru Bolt be sure not to loose the Square nut that the bolt is threaded into they can fall out and on to the ground depending how you have clamped the mount down.

Exploded View of the Mount

Step 2: Preparation for Cutting/Modding,
- Firstly get the Square Nut and Wind it on to the "Thru Bolt" right to the end, do not cut unless you have done this.
- Secondly but not necessary Clean up the main Shaft of the Mount (I used a Bench Grinder with a wire wheel)

**ranton-inc** · 21-04-2009, 08:49 AM

Step 3: Cutting the Shaft and The "Thru Bolt"

Place the Main Part of the Mount back in the Vice as Pictured (Horizontally)

We want to Measure to where the little black mark is from the end of the shaft (Length of section to be removed - Min 1.35cm Max 1.55cm)
When Comfortable Take to the Shaft with the Hack Saw or Cut off Disc Either or. (I Used my Bench Grinder to remove and burring on the shaft post cutting)

Now Place the "Thru Bolt" with threaded Square Nut in to the Vice like Pictured

From the Pointy End Count Back and Place the Saw Edge between the 5th and 6th Coil of the Thread proceed to cut right thru (if you cut to short it will be nigh impossible to reassemble this mount)
Optional: you can use the Bench grinder to round of any burring but please don't try and round off the thread to make it look pretty and useable we wound that nut on earlier for a reason

Wind the bolt out of the Nut this will allow the bolt to be threaded in/out at any given time like a Regular uncut bold
(although this is a common sense practice when shortening bolts some may not know this)

**ranton-inc** · 21-04-2009, 08:51 AM

Step 4: Reassembly of the Now Modified Mount
This is pretty Straight Forward However My Work of advice is to place the bolt Vertically in to the Vice (Hex End Down as pictured) you will need it in this position to make things easy

Start Putting the Parts Back in the Order they came off (naturally)

Apply Loctite Threadlocker to the Thread of the "Thru Bolt"

Take the modified Mount and Place the Square Nut back in where it Came from Oriented the way pictured (The longer side facing outwards)

Now Push the Shaft End of the Mount to fit with Thru Bolt and the rest of the Assemble

**ranton-inc** · 21-04-2009, 08:52 AM

Now Use all the Force you can downwards to compress the Bushes enough for the Thread of the Bolt to make Contact with the Nut and take.

Continue to use the Vice as a Reverse Spanner and Keep Tightening Until you can see a Coil or Two of the thread passing thru the Square Nut (as pictured)

Check out your New Mount see how Compressed it is compared pre Modification
Before:

After:

I got bored and stumbled across the letter punch

Part 3: Re installation in to Vehicle
Now you May need a Hand to Put it back in to the Vehicle as you will need to move the engine backwards a bit as the mount is shorter (this is good as it lifts the exhaust slightly and stops the Downpipe rubbing everywhere.
But In my Experience I have found it is best to Re bolt the mount back up to the Transmission first with the 2 x 16mm Hex Head Bolts First

However Please Make Sure you Loctite the Threads and torque them to 40Nm + 1/4 turn Do not over tighter they will Shear off if you aren't careful.

I always used to pre loctite the 13mm Hex Head sub frame bolts and would have them ready to push thru and quickly thread in with my fingers.. as i would have my other arm occupied and twisting the engine backwards slightly. Torque these to 20nm + 1/4 turn.

Enjoy Crisper Gear Changes, a more Direct Driving Feel and reclaim lost Torque thru prior Twisting of the Engine and Box

All this without added interior Vibrations like Aftermarket Poly Urethane equivalents.

Note: Another Engine mount that compliments this very nicely (applies only to 5spd smaller engine vehicles) is the Factory Upper Transmission mount for the same platform the 6speed/VR6 Upper Transmission mount is stronger and has more rubber encased in it...

Disclaimer: I take no responsibility if you Injure yourself while attempting this modification... if you lack common sense and know how don't F***ing bother attempting...

Please remember these parts are a consumable item when it comes to the day to day running of a motor vehicle. they wear out weather they are stock standard or modified... in saying that having driven/thrashed/beaten within a inch of its life on a daily basis and the mount is still going strong 3 years down the track in the same car

Use your brains guys...

If you want to see the entire album of photos Click here

**dubbed** · 21-04-2009, 08:58 AM

Ingenius.

Personally I'm not game enough to try it on my ride (although I do have a spare dogbone mount now..). But props for giving it a go.

**ranton-inc** · 21-04-2009, 09:06 AM

I have modified over 30 of these mounts for MKIV Platform Cars in NZ, not one has failed

My Old GTI now owned by a friend has got a mount that has been in there for over 3 years now and has shown no signs of failing...

I love the fact i could have all the benefits of a Uprated mount with no added discomfort

Take it or leave it guys

I'm just sharing the love

I now drive a Mazda3 MPS so this is my Departing give to the VW world... (it gave me so much joy so im just giving a bit back)

**dubbed** · 21-04-2009, 09:53 AM

Originally Posted by HitmanR32

I have modified over 30 of these mounts for MKIV Platform Cars in NZ, not one has failed

My Old GTI now owned by a friend has got a mount that has been in there for over 3 years now and has shown no signs of failing...

I love the fact i could have all the benefits of a Uprated mount with no added discomfort

Take it or leave it guys

I'm just sharing the love

I now drive a Mazda3 MPS so this is my Departing give to the VW world... (it gave me so much joy so im just giving a bit back)

Not doubting that it works mate. Would you do another one for a small fee if I sent it over?

The dogbone mount I have at the moment is a stiffer rubber (not polyurethane) so it'd be interesting to shorten that one...

Why did you make the move to the MPS - besides the fact that they haul arse when on the move!

**ranton-inc** · 21-04-2009, 10:12 AM

Originally Posted by dubbed

Not doubting that it works mate. Would you do another one for a small fee if I sent it over?

The dogbone mount I have at the moment is a stiffer rubber (not polyurethane) so it'd be interesting to shorten that one...

Why did you make the move to the MPS - besides the fact that they haul arse when on the move!

Ill do you one for nothing just the postage cost if you get stuck but im sure there is someone proficient enough Locally (where are you?) to do you one..

However if you get stuck im easy enough to find

why the Move..

The R32 in my mind was the biggest Let down of a motorvehicle. I had high expectations and low deliverance on those expectations..

the Mazda i Expected nothing of it.. i didnt even want one.. i went, drove it, thought about it for a week or 2 drove it again loved it, bought it, 6 weeks down the track every time i turn that key and drive i have a big smile on my face...

The Shine on the R wore off after the first week..

I really fail to see why people Complain about the handling in the MPS

I find its un real how well it hauls it self out of a corner.. in saying that i ditched the stock 215 45 R18s and chucked on 225 40 18s and it no longer wheel spins it hooks up and hauls

it was pissing down last night for the first time in ages.. turned off the DSC which is pretty unintrusive any way and just planted it line locking it every where god i love having a LSD
Came around the Few corners I forced it in to a Understeer situation only for fun...