Reply With QuoteIf you lower it to get the arms level you will pickup a smidge more camber. Going by the pic is say it can come down a bit more. What tops you have again?
Volkswagen Enthusiast
With your track setup, the tubular subframe and tubular control arms are a good consideration...Originally Posted by HaydEn
I'm just not sure about those rose joints on the control arms, I wonder how long they would last..
How much camber do you have at the moment anyway? 2" surely....
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VWwA Super Moderator
If you lower it to get the arms level you will pickup a smidge more camber. Going by the pic is say it can come down a bit more. What tops you have again?
Volkswagenist
The control arms are actually level at the moment. So anything lower will be angled, how I had the ride height before meant the control arms were quite angled. But never felt it to be a hinderance with bump steer etc. I’ll be lowering the front approximately 25mm, don’t think I’ll get much lower than that in the rear.
Silver project tops. Also have to dremel out the factory strut top to be able to tighten the nuts with them set to max neg.
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Volkswagenist
Because of the 6 piston calipers the stock 23.8mm master cylinder would have an excessive pedal travel to get the same braking force. The bigger master cylinder doesn’t exactly mean, better braking, but better brake pedal feel. So it should be firm but still able to create enough line pressure to work the pistons.
Whereas if you put a large master cylinder on small piston calipers, the pedal would be harder to press to get the same braking force.
I would stick with a stock replacement in 90% of cases. At least until someone finds out a more bolt on alternative. If I can’t get the pedal and braking how I want, I will be going to a booster-less twin master setup.
Eyeball says 1-1.5 negative degrees atm. It’s honestly stuff all. Hopefully gain a lot more with ‘natural’ camber from lowering it.
Rose joints seem to last a while and to be fair, I’m probably kidding myself how often I’ll be driving this on the street these days. Not a daily anymore
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Interesting. Looks 20mm or so more wheel gap than I had with 215/45/17s when I just had it aligned and the arms were dead level
Maybe just the photo?
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Volkswagenist
Yeah maybe. 235/40, with ~40mm tyre to arch gap.
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Volkswagen Enthusiast
The tubular subframe will allow you to lower that extra inch you plan and maintain level arms. You probably know this stuff already.
But they are not cheap... Over $1000
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Volkswagenist
Yeah big coin.
The main lowering issue is that the rear springs only have ‘spacers/plates’ so not an infinitely adjustable height, only 4 heights. Currently at the highest setting, lowest is 18mm lower at the spring, which might be 30-40mm at the arch. Purely an appearance issue at this stage.
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Volkswagenist
So I pulled out the height adjustment plates or whatever you want to call them, lowered the rear by the expected ~30mm, annoyingly lost all preload. That’s why I put them all in now from memory.
Anywho, lowered the front to match and tightened up the strut tops with no weight on them.
Would be nice a touch lower, but I’ll be happy with this.
Also, picture of the engine bay now. Wrapped the loom in cloth tape, and a few touches of heat management for ultimate race car points.
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Volkswagenist
very very nice mate. That looks unreal.
Yeah my rears are a pain too. I have 8kg/mm rears that barelt deflect at all with weight on them. But at full droop they are nearly falling out without helper springs. You could call someone like MCA and see if they can do you some helpers. Mine sit at 8-10mm when crushed flat but keep the springs captive when its jacked up.
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