Oh yeah sick, I still need to find decent rotors for my 18z’s for my Audi
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Oh yeah sick, I still need to find decent rotors for my 18z’s for my Audi
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A combination of big calipers and new sway bar location meant that I couldn’t get my old brake tubing to fit anymore.
While trying to find scoop idea’s to make one up. I came across these RS3 brake ducts. Seem to be a popular mod for MK7 people.
Found an Aussie seller and got a pair for not a lot of money.
Fit onto the control arm ok. Takes a bit of force to move them so should be rated to the top speed of this thing..
Also chucked a seat back in on the new seat base. Heaps lower than the other bases which is always nice. The seatbelt mount is way to high up though. So will need to look at another buckle for street duties
New seat base
Old seat base
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Last edited by HaydEn; 25-11-2019 at 05:28 PM.
Honda civic seat belt buckle are short and easy to obtain (Ill snag you one at the wreckers)
I think a nice motorsport steering wheel should be next!
Yeah sweet thanks woody. Would need the buckle to be around 50mm long to be ideal. Also with a seatbelt light harness.
Re: steering wheel, I was able to remove all of the airbag stuff so it now weighs as much an aftermarket wheel, but looks oem!
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Having an issue getting the car started.
Has 5-6v drop when cranking. Tried two other batteries that start other cars with no issue. Only way I can get it to start is with a fresh charged battery once, or with 2 batteries in parallel, even then it struggles and gets to as low as 7v.
I’ve tried new positive and negative leads, even real short ones, checked the solenoid wire from ignition switch, bench tested starter motor and it uses 1v unloaded. Not sure if this is a normal value??
After i get it started and use the alternator to charge the battery for 20-30 minutes then try re-start the car immediately it still fails to start it again.
I’m confident the batteries are ok as they start other cars. The leads are ok, the trigger wire from ignition switch to starter is ok and the starter is ok.
I recall having an issue initially with the car and the cigarette lighter causing a crank no start as well as the temp sensor, but that is unplugged and the temp sensor is new.
I’ve removed the rear speaker wiring and the air bag wiring from the car. Which has nothing to do with the starting circuit. So I’m not sure what to do.
HELP??
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So after charging my battery day after day. Turns out my charger that previously has been ok, was not ok this time round.
Took it back to the shop I purchased it from, they charged it up over night and car starts as it should again.
VCDS bled the brakes and they are still crap, soft pedal. Firm when engine is off. And pedal sinks an inch when car is turned on. So I’m confident that the booster is sealed and the master is working good.
Have put 1 litre of fluid through the system. 500ml gravity bleeding and another 500ml pressure bleeding. Going to get an oil can tomorrow and try reverse bleed.
Chucked the wheels on and got it off the jack stands. Sits super high. So need to adjust that a bit.
Seem to have very little negative camber in the front. Even with the ball joints and camber tops maxed which is disappointing. Wish I saved the money on the camber tops and just got control arms instead.
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Hey mate, can you please tell me more about the following..
With the 26mm master cylinder, is that meant to increase the pressure applied to the brakes?
What is the 26mm measurement referring to?
And what was the size of the stock master cylinder? And why didn't you go with a stock master instead?
Just curious as I'm sure my master cylinder will fail eventually.
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