were you in padstow on I think thursday?? I saw a blue r32 on my way home from work.
2002 Golf GTI - K03S | 3" Downpipe | 312mm DBA T3 Slotted with Forza Pads | | Forge 008 | Forge Hoses | ECS Performance Mounts | R32 and Urethane Bushings | Pipercross Filter | Sachs VR6 Clutch with 14lb Balanced Flywheel
Went to the drags last night, was meant to be in my other car but didn’t get the tune sorted.
That said, the R32 was 35KG lighter and different wheel and tyre combination. So should have made for a marginal improvement.
Wrong.
13.611 @ 101.40mph
Car got to the 60ft faster than any other pass, but was bogging down after 2-3 and 3-4 shifts which most certainly cost it going 13.5xx
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any thoughts on why it was bogging down?
Shame it didnt run quite right after making the trip down to Syd mate. Give me a holler next time you go (if you dont mind me tagging along) as i wouldnt mind running my car down the strip.
I was going to head down a few weeks ago with a friend who has a Mk7 R but was flat out at work and couldnt take the time off.
True.
Na the GTI is long gone. The GTI would have burnt its clutch (stock clutch) on the sticky 1/4 mile track. It held ok on the road but i knew it would be a different story on a track.
I've got a Lexus IS-F now so i want to see what the N/A 5.0L V8 can do. I've done a few things to it so it should be ok for mid/high 12's.
With the VW Nationals Supersprint next weekend I finally got around to fitting some hopefully preventative explosion pieces.
First off was fitting a MK5 baffled sump and oil pump. Oil pump due to shallower MK5 sump. With the baffled sump I also gained the level and temp sensor, which with some wiring I can view on the colourMFA display
Next was changing out the oem 120a alternator for a 90a unit from a 4 cylinder MK4 and lightweight pulley I had from my old 12v VR6.
I swapped alternators in an effort to get some weight off the nose of this thing, switching alternators saved 1.9KG
I also got a smaller battery and moved it into the back of the car. The battery and new bracket was only slightly lighter, around 6KG, but I mostly did this for the same reason as above, to get some weight off the nose. The battery and mount that was on the car weighed in at 16kg, new setup is roughly 9-10kg including the additional wiring required. Totalling 18KG off the front, should have a noticeable improvement!
With the front end off to change alternators, I took the opportunity to change intake manifolds, finally getting rid of the badly black painted one. This snowballed a bit and with the manifold off I finally got rid of the mess of hoses hidden on top of the hot exhaust manifolds.
The above was all able to be removed by simply moving the coolant ball to the passenger side of the bay. 2 new hoses, extend the 2 coolant level sensor wires and a bracket was all that was needed.
I also used a MK3 1.8L hose to remove the ‘T’ piece that had been blocked off for the aux radiator. Aim of all of this was just to eliminate all of the potential leak joints.
After the last track day, I knew that the cooling of the brakes was a serious issue that needed to be addressed. I started with some plans to modify the dust shields to fit a duct, but I eventually opted for their complete removal. In addition I fitted some brake ducts drawing air from the big R32 bumper vents.
I made some ‘L’ brackets and nutserted the chassis legs to be able to bolt them securely in place, especially with how close everything in is, to crank pulley, driveshafts, end links and tyres.
Now I’m still not 100% happy with how they are attached to the control arms, but it was the most sensible option I could think of. After a road test there are no issues with them moving or rubbing so for now they’ll stay as is.
Sitting 50mm back from either brake disc a quick test with the leaf blower showed good flow into the centre of the disc.
Last piece of the puzzle for now was to add some bracing. Scored from a TT, I installed some more nutserts into the subframe and fitted the lower subframe brace
Bit of a brain fart on my end, the upper strut brace wouldn’t fit without notching it, or removing the bonnet strut bracket. I chose to cut the brace because 1. I got them for free, 2. The bolt holes look to be in the same spot as the 8L S3 so if I ever end up with a strut brace from one it’ll just bolt back in.
I also tided up some of the wiring and wrapped some up in some left over braided that I had, no more exposed wires! Sort of.
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Last edited by HaydEn; 19-05-2019 at 03:43 PM.
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