general info on a bora?

[clifforddd]

so basically I'm looking at getting a bora 4-motion and this will be my first vw. I'm just curious about parts and stuff for them. Are other parts from other models (such as mk4 golfs) be able to put into boras? also just curious about where people buy there parts from, net? local shops e.t.c...

also any common problems i should be aware of?

thanks,
Alex

---------- Post added at 10:24 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:22 AM ----------

o and the model is a 2004 (my2003)

[goodfella]

Hi Alex, pre-welcome abroard! I've had my Bora for over 4yrs now and still loving it. sure its not the quickest off the line but it more than makes up for it in the twisties, when driven spiritedly or in anger

The Bora 4mo driveline and most suspension hardpoints are shared with the Mk4 R32/Audi 8L S3 (the old shape) and the Audi TT quattro models, thus parts can be sourced from any of these. The V6 also has some common parts with the R32 .

As far as overseas OEM parts suppliers, the main players are ECS Tuning, German Auto Parts with numerous tuners and aftermarket supplies. But 1 word of caution, the US market never got the V6 4mo Bora, they only got the FWD version, so double check before buying.

Good Luck and hope to see you round some day

[kai_h]

I've owned a Bora 4Motion and it's one of the best cars I've had. It's reliable, powerful, handles well and the awd system is pretty good (but gets better with a haldex upgrade).

Overseas they made a Golf with the 24V VR6 engine (the MkIV GTI-VR6) so there are parts available from overseas that will bolt right on. It can also be upgraded with higher performance parts from the R32 or the Audi A3/S3/TT (such as big brake kits, haldex controller upgrades etc)

I found mine to be very reliable for the time I owned it - a relatively common problem on the earlier MkIVs and the MkIII VR6 is the heavy clutch leads to physical failure of the clutch pedal - this issue also affects some Audi models to the extent that my mechanic keeps a spare one in stock so he can get them fixed quickly. If you get the pedal out, it's an easy fix with a couple of tack welds, but if you take it to a dealership they'll say things like the master cylinder needs replacing as well and want to charge big $$$ for it. I think the clutch mechanism was made quite a lot lighter in newer models, so this will be less of an issue.

As long as it's got a good service history, it should be rock-solid. The 24V VR6 is more powerful and more reliable than the 12V in the MkIII's and parts in the MkIII that are prone to failure (such as the coilpack) are completely re-engineered or replaced entirely (for example, coil-on-plug ignition in the 24V)

I loved the car as it is quite a sleeper. They are very understated, they don't draw attention to themselves yet when they were released, they were the quickest VW you could buy.

The Haldex AWD takes a bit of getting used to - you'll find that you can chuck the car into a corner and plant your foot - the car will begin to understeer and then you feel the rear wheels spring into action and really push you around the corner. It's hard to make it oversteer, but it is possible if you try hard enough.

The ESP is pretty aggressive in trying to prevent you from having too much fun - even if you chuck a quick U-turn it can kick in and cut almost all power from the engine so you'll probably end up turning it off whenever you are driving enthusiastically.

I don't think there's another car on the market that offers the combination of clean and stylish looks, power and handling and a luxurious interior at the price-point that the Bora now sells for.

---------- Post added at 01:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:58 PM ----------

Yep, as Goodfella says, it's not the quickest off the line as it's a heavy car and the 4Motion tends to grip too well to get any wheelspin so the motor will tend to bog down unless you get the slipping of the clutch just right and you'll be rocketed forwards with a huge grin on your face.

[clifforddd]

thanks for the reply's guys! the info is very helpful, thats really all i was unsure about...i took one for a drive yesterday and i loved the feel of it, the 6 speed, the one i drove was very responsive, clutch was good so its got me sold. also only has 77,000km's and log book servicing. very different from my old ford flacon ute

[governor22]

i think i know the one you're talking about, and you don't see many blue boras around (especially 4mos)... looks great

that said, i'd still take it to a garage and get it checked out; i didn't do this because the one i got had low k's too (86,000) and i thought it would be in top shape, given the one owner etc etc... turns out the rear diff will most likely need to be replaced / heavily worked on. This is 1-2 grand to fix up.

also ask them about the battery (still the original? if not, when was it last replaced? -- i had to replace mine recently, but it wasn't the original, some cheap one put in...), check the tread on the tyres (mine were barely street legal), also take it for a second drive: try some U-turns, reverse parks, cornering etc, if it "hops" or "skips" or feels like the back is locking up, then that is most likely a rear diff problem.

also ask this person (sandro) what they've been filling it up with--you'd hope it's been 95 or 98 and none of the other stuff... when was it's last service (was it a genuine VW place or some non-descript garage up the road that don't specialise vw...)

just things like this you need to keep in the back of your mind. hope the purchase goes well, it's a great car

gov

edit: also try and bargain with them; 16k is quite steep (even for an immaculate 4mo).... i reckon you could get it down to 15, maybe a tad under...

[kai_h]

77,000km on it - it's only just been run in!
The VR6 is an incredibly strong engine right out of the factory. Forged pistons and cranks as standard. Timing chains instead of belts. They're built to do a quarter of a million km or more.
Even if the service history checks out, I'd still get a mechanic to have a look at it just to be sure.
Also, with the service intervals, VW quote services based on distance travelled or time elapsed (15,000km or 12 months, I think). If you've got a vehicle that's done very low kms for it's age, make sure that it's up to date with the servicing for the age of the vehicle.

[clifforddd]

govenor22, that was gonna be my next question, price? i thought it was steep as well, and the car yu are talking about is the exact one i looked at. funny you mention tyres and battery, both are brand new, he said he fills it with premium... the guy seems to be genuine said it was his brothers then his, he has owned vws in the past. he knew the car back to front (guess can be good and bad) i asked him about general problems like maf sensor and esp, he said the esp use to screw around a bit but they changed all the diff oil to some oil they use in wrx's? mechanically it comes across as perfect (well to me anyway) but yeh i might be try and get it checked out by my mechanic..

kai_h: thanks thats a good tip, ill have a deeper read of the log books!

thanks again guys

---------- Post added 12-11-2011 at 01:27 PM ---------- Previous post was 06-11-2011 at 05:08 PM ----------

so i finally found one i liked and put a deposit down on it, i found one problem however..... where the jacking points are at the front (under the passenger and drivers area) the rails in-between the side skirts and chassis (their colour coded so id say they ae part of the side skirt) seem to be bowed in exactly the same spot on booths ides (like 10cm length). I'm thinking its either bottomed out (which is weird cause everything else is fine, the chassis isn't damaged more is the belly pan or anything, or they are meant to be like this?

just wondering if your bora's are the ame or has it bottomed out?

[governor22]

u got a photo?

which one on carsales ?

[clifforddd]

na i didn't get a photo of the underside

2004 VOLKSWAGEN BORA 4-MOTION 1J MY2003 Cars For Sale in NSW - carsales.com.au - carsales.com.au

[Coralon]

The pushed up jack points will be from a trolley jack or more likely a hoist. VW dealers use special jack pads to lift the car on a hoist that others wont and this causes damage. My car has it in the same place and also on the soft chassis rails, wouldnt even know where to start getting it fixed.

Nice clean and stock car