Don't have a way of getting out of the house at the moment so luckily I found a little bit of petrol in the bottom of the jerry can, thanks gav
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Don't have a way of getting out of the house at the moment so luckily I found a little bit of petrol in the bottom of the jerry can, thanks gav
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Cleaned out the TB, tried starting the car again and the instrument lights flash and fail as if the batteries dying, charged the battery and tried starting it again but still no luck, everything looks and seems to be connected properly, everything was working before the swap including the new engine
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You can go old school and check there's fuel and a spark after that.
You need to find someone with VCDS, don't waste any more time on it until you have scanned it. It's just pissing into the wind.
This needs doing too. Throttle Body Alignment (TBA) - Ross-Tech Wiki
Gavin
When you say old school do you mean pulling a spark plug lead off the coilpack or something? I put in a 10L of fuel in 2 days ago and it's saying I have half a tank but how do I tell if the fuel pumps working? Don't want to be asking stupid questions to everyone else but I don't know too many golf enthusiasts around my area and I don't have too much of an idea on what I'm doing basically unless I see something online
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Not sure what the FPR is :/ yer the original leads and coilpack are on and the engine came with new spark plugs.
Thanks for your help gav
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I don't fully understand what you mean by the FPR removal trick, I don't have as much of an idea about cars as I'd like to, I'm literally learning everything off this swap so I don't know all these parts and what they do etc
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If you remove the FPR or disconnect a fuel line. Then flick the key, you can confirm that you have fuel in the fuel rail.
It's not good enough to see fuel there without the engine cranking. The ECU triggers the fuel pump when the engine is turning, this is a safety feature, where the fuel pump isn't powered if the engine stalls, preventing a broken line from spewing fuel after an accident.
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