ECS Stg 2 refresh kit + Bilstein Shocks = Creaking strut tops, why?

**Rybky** · 02-02-2011, 08:15 AM

So a few months ago I had a local mechanic fit a Stage 2 refresh kit and Bilstein Heavy Duty shocks to my car. After a little while I started to get a creaking/clunking sound on low speed turning and reversing with full left lock results in a large clunk and loss of brake pressure.

They have had the car back in a couple of times and checked it out but say there is nothing wrong and they don't know why it does it.

I had the car up on my ramps at the weekend to check it out myself and I have come to the conclusion that it must be the strut tops. From what I can work out these are a type of ball joint right? The strut turns with the wheels so there has to be some rotational movement at the top plus the geometry will change too so there has to be some pivoting motion there too.

This certainly fits with the sounds I hear, it sounds almost like the joint is too tight or just not moving freely enough.

Any thoughts on this? Could they have stuffed up the install in some way?

The car is in with them today having new brake rotors and pads fitted, I mentioned my theory but they did not seem to think there could be an issue there, I have insisted they drop the struts out and check it though!

So if anyone who has worked on their struts could shed any light on what mistake they might have made that would help me in case they still claim nothing is wrong.

Thanks!

Adam

**dylan8** · 02-02-2011, 11:31 AM

Mine does the same but i just assume its dead strut mounts and bearings.
Do you have original springs??

**Rybky** · 02-02-2011, 12:04 PM

Originally Posted by dylan8

Mine does the same but i just assume its dead strut mounts and bearings.
Do you have original springs??

Yes original springs. Well my strut mounts should have been replaced when they did the refresh kit, I am not even sure exactly what parts make up the top mount, reading around it seems there is a "carrier" of some kind but I can't find a schematic that shows it.

Adam

**dylan8** · 02-02-2011, 12:34 PM

I couldnt find much either.

This last one is one from my back yard job...

**vwsport** · 02-02-2011, 07:09 PM

maybe?

Volkswagen Jetta IV VR6 24v > ES#929 Rear Upper Shock Mount-Priced Each - 1J0513353CSJ

Eliminate suspension knock from the rear of your vehicle often caused from worn shock mount bushings.

Mine did the same but recently replaced all the suspension with PSS9's and the annoying noise has gone

**JustCruisn** · 02-02-2011, 08:59 PM

Does this help ?

1. Self-locking hex nut, 60 Nm
Always replace
2. Stop
3. Suspension strut turret
4. Hex nut, 60 Nm
5. Strut mount
6. Axial ball bearing
7. Bushing
Only installed to vehicles with heavy duty suspension (PR No.1GB)
This PR No. is entered on the vehicle data label in luggage compartment
8. Spring plate
9. Coil spring
Observe color coding
Surface of winding must not be damaged
10. Self-locking nut
50 Nm plus an additional 1/4 turn 90
Always replace
11. Hex bolt, 10 Nm
12. Bracket
13. Heat shield
14. Hex bolt
Always replace
The point on hex bolt must point in normal direction of travel
15. Clip
16. Wheel bearing housing
17. Self-locking nut
60 Nm plus an additional 1/4 turn 90
Never less than 90
Turning angle tolerance 90 to 120
Always replace
18. Clamp
19. Connecting Link
20. Damper
Can be replaced individually
Application See Parts Catalog
21. Bump stop
22. Protective sleeve

**Rybky** · 03-02-2011, 08:05 AM

Awesome diagram, thanks!

Just had a call from the mechanic this morning (they didn't get it completed yesterday even though I dropped it in to them at 8am!!), they have discovered significant play in one of the front wheel bearings and are about to check the other. So looks like I am up for wheel bearing replacement today as well.

I guess this might account for the clunking.

Adam

**Rybky** · 04-02-2011, 07:13 AM

OK, so both the clicking/creaking sound on low speed turning and the big clunk and loss of brake pressure on full left lock have been resolved!

The clicking/creaking sounds on low speed turning was caused by the Axial Ball Bearing (part 6 in the diagram above) at the top of left strut had split in to four pieces, as they were checking both sides they replaced both bearings.

The clunk and brake pressure loss on full left lock was caused by the right wheel bearing which although was not making any noise when the wheel turned, had a significant amount of lateral play. So on full lock the wheel suddenly shifted causing the brake piston to be pushed back.

So an expensive exercise but the car feels so much better now.

Adam