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Thread: DIY installing coilovers & drop links

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Eastern Suburbs Melbourne
    Posts
    9,006

    I have a mk 1, but I believe it's got a simlar kinda set up. I need a 21 or 22 mm offset ring spanner to tighten the nut, and an allen key to hold the shocker from spinning.

    I went to bunnings, to a tap socket set, which has 3 different large dia double ended 'sockets' i chopped the one i needed in half, and welded the end I need onto and old spanner, and when from there (i hope that makes sense)


    i like volkswagens
    My blog: http://garagefiftythree.blogspot.com.au/

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    587
    If you plan on keeping the car for a long while and possibly doing more suspension work, grab one of these, makes the job much easier and it's compatible with a torque wrench:

    http://www.tdiparts.com/catalog/prod...roducts_id=932


    Snowy

  3. #33
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    234
    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by Jarred View Post
    I have a mk 1, but I believe it's got a simlar kinda set up. I need a 21 or 22 mm offset ring spanner to tighten the nut, and an allen key to hold the shocker from spinning.

    I went to bunnings, to a tap socket set, which has 3 different large dia double ended 'sockets' i chopped the one i needed in half, and welded the end I need onto and old spanner, and when from there (i hope that makes sense)
    haha it sort of makes sense, you made a bit of hybrid there!

    Quote Originally Posted by No457 Snowy View Post
    If you plan on keeping the car for a long while and possibly doing more suspension work, grab one of these, makes the job much easier and it's compatible with a torque wrench:

    http://www.tdiparts.com/catalog/prod...roducts_id=932


    Snowy
    cheers mate, you've got all the answers! I just purchased the bearing & bushes from ECS, so hopefully they turn up soon. Not sure if its worth buying that tool though, don't know how often I'll use it. I'll ask a few people I know in the industry who might have something I can use/borrow.

    Another question, my "low level brake light" warning light is lit up since I did the swap. Is this a result of removing the bracket from the passenger side strut and re-attaching it? (the one that is attached with a star-shaped screw)






    After all my issues are sorted out, I'm planning to use all this information in this thread to make a FAQ with pic's and as much info as possible that people can use for reference, and we can add to it and edit as we please, and hopefully a mod can sticky it. There's just too much good info in this thread to let it disappear into the archives.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    234
    Thread Starter
    any idea's on the above issue guys?

    okay so my bushings/bearings came in from ECS today, so I installed the drivers side tonight since its the side that's knocking. I'll do the passenger side tomorrow.

    This is how I have set it up in order from bottom to top, in the direction that you see them here...

    Exploded view:


    Top view assembled:


    Underneath view assembled:


    and this is the part from the standard struts that I was asking about before, if I should leave it in or not. I left it in the first time, but this time around I have removed it, doesn't seem to serve any purpose, please correct me if I'm wrong though. Just seems to me like it's the stock upper spring hat?


    So now the bearing sits directly on top of the coilover top hat. I put the car back on the ground and turned it on, performed a "dry turn" and everything is still operating smoothly.

    Interestingly, the new bushings are a bit taller than my old ones, and have removed most of the gap in the strut tops in the engine bay. I guess the old ones get squashed over time.

    I've been taking photos along the way which will be in my build thread when I piece it all together

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Ringwood, Victoria
    Posts
    4,140
    That hat serves several purposes.

    It is the top seating point for the spring on the strut setup, it holds the spring also in compression and it also seats the strut bearing in the divot on the top of it.

    If you coilovers have come with a replacement one of these, then no you don't need it.

    Stage 2+ Intercooler Carbon Intake Downpipe Swaybar DV+ Remsa.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    234
    Thread Starter
    yep the coilovers have their own top-hat.

    drove the car to work this morning, no more knocking! feels so good, I can actually drive the car properly now and enjoy the handeling.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Bairnsdale & Ferntree Gully, Victoria
    Posts
    7,491
    Quote Originally Posted by anth View Post
    yep the coilovers have their own top-hat.

    drove the car to work this morning, no more knocking! feels so good, I can actually drive the car properly now and enjoy the handeling.
    Yeah its replaced by the new one.

    Congrats on the install. Got any after shots of your car. How you finding them, cant wait to get mine finally in!

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    587
    Quote Originally Posted by anth View Post
    yep the coilovers have their own top-hat.

    drove the car to work this morning, no more knocking! feels so good, I can actually drive the car properly now and enjoy the handeling.
    Good stuff mate, well done!!


    Snowy.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    234
    Thread Starter

    cheers guys, gotta do the passenger side tonight.

    my honest review is that they're great! The ride is very comfortable, obviously firmer than standard but not too bouncy, not harsh at all, and there are no noises.

    I have them set up pretty close to factory height, so my springs are wound up pretty tight, not sure how its going to change for better/worse when I lower it, it might be less bouncy since the springs will be un-tensioned, but then again i'll be closer to bumpstops so it will be a catch-22. Waiting on wheels to come in first before I bring it down.

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