Support VWWC

Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 39

Thread: DIY installing coilovers & drop links

  1. #21
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    234
    Thread Starter

    all done! spent yesterday installing the coilovers. Started with the drivers side front strut, what a bitch that was! took me for ever to get it out. Once that was done though, the rest was relatively easy (seemed harder cos it was so friken hot!). That being said, I do have a rattle gun/impact gun, and I don't think I could have done it without one.

    So now they're in I have a few questions...

    - I re-used all of the rubbers/bearings from the top of the standard struts and put them on my coilovers above the metal top hat (3 pieces total per side from memory). Is this correct or was I supposed to leave something out? The car turns the wheels as per normal and doesn't make any nasty creaks/groans when turning so I'm assuming it's alright.

    - My strut tops are sticking up in my engine bay a bit. From what I've searched & read, this seems to be acceptable? Although my drivers side isn't exactly centred, seems to be closer to the inside.

    - Also, the drivers side strut top bangs over large bumps, I think it didn't get tightened all the way, feels like there's some play in it. Gonna give it a quick hit with the rattle gun and see if it fixes it. Unless anyone has any other ideas?

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    587
    Mate, how many km's did the original strut top rubbers and bearings have on them? because after doing all the work to get them all out, re-using them is not a great idea. New ones will help the feel of the front end quite a bit too.

    Actually that could be the reason for the banging you hear now over large bumps. The rubbers get really hard and compressed after many km's and on my car at least, they did not like being re-used and caused the exact symptom you describe. It's also why the tops are sticking up high.

    Also, DO NOT use a rattle gun to tighten the strut top nuts as you run a good chance of crunching the top bearing.

    Sorry to be the bearer of all that bad news.


    Cheers,

    Snowy
    Last edited by No457 Snowy; 08-11-2009 at 02:27 PM.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Eastern Suburbs Melbourne
    Posts
    9,006
    Quote Originally Posted by anth View Post
    ...Unless anyone has any other ideas?
    beside posting pics so we can see what it looks like now? nope..

    if I ever get a noise of creak after I've being playing with something, suspension in this case, I'll make a note of it, and go back and check it, and un-do and re-do it just for the hell of it. HTH


    i like volkswagens
    My blog: http://garagefiftythree.blogspot.com.au/

  4. #24
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    234
    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by No457 Snowy View Post
    Mate, how many km's did the original strut top rubbers and bearings have on them? because after doing all the work to get them all out, re-using them is not a great idea. New ones will help the feel of the front end quite a bit too.

    Actually that could be the reason for the banging you hear now over large bumps. The rubbers get really hard and compressed after many km's and on my car at least, they did not like being re-used and caused the exact symptom you describe. It's also why the tops are sticking up high.

    Also, DO NOT use a rattle gun to tighten the strut top nuts as you run a good chance of crunching the top bearing.

    Sorry to be the bearer of all that bad news.


    Cheers,

    Snowy
    the car has about 100,000km on it, I doubt they've ever been changed, but they didn't look obviously broken or anything, but I might replace them anyway. There isnt any noises apart from the one I mentioned, and it doesn't sound or feel like it's from a broken item. It really feels like something just needs to be tightened more, like theres a bit of slack somewhere in the strut. I could be wrong though.

    My rattle gun/compressor isn't that strong, it still took a bit of effort for it to tighten up the nuts, they were still spinning the whole shock shaft.


    Quote Originally Posted by Jarred View Post
    beside posting pics so we can see what it looks like now? nope..

    if I ever get a noise of creak after I've being playing with something, suspension in this case, I'll make a note of it, and go back and check it, and un-do and re-do it just for the hell of it. HTH
    I think thats my best bet, I just need to take that one strut out and inspect it, I'm sure there's something that needs a bit of tweaking.


    New question: Reading on Vortex, it seems there is a spacer in the strut assembly that people are saying you should leave out when you install coilovers. Its a spacer that goes between the stock upper spring hat and the bearing. Apparently when using coilovers you leave the spacer out and just put the bearing straight onto the spring hat. This is what I meant before when I said should I have left something out? Anyone know about this?

    I'm not home at the moment but I'll update the thread with pics later

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    587
    If they've got 100,000 km on them you'll be amazed when you compare them to a new one side by side. The old ones will be very compressed/hard and much shorter in height. With those km, new ones will make a noticeable difference to the front end feel. That sound you describe is what mine did when I reused the top rubbers, once I put new ones in it went away. (That was the only change).

    BTW, the correct tension for the top nut is 44 ft-lb.


    Cheers,

    Snowy.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    234
    Thread Starter
    where do I get new strut rubbers & bearings from? VW spare parts? Or is there a better place? What's a good price to pay for them?

    Now that I think about it, on one of the struts (most likely drivers side), the first nut that holds the rubber bushing onto the assembly actually went straight through the bushing, so it must be stuffed! (not the top nut in the engine bay, the lower one)

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    587
    Here's what you want mate, $66.20 shipped to Oz (I checked in the shopping cart). With our exchange rate I doubt you'll beat that locally, certainly NOT a VW dealer anyway.

    http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-...on/OEM/ES5029/


    Cheers,

    Snowy

  8. #28
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    234
    Thread Starter
    mate, you're a legend! thanks for the link

    I'll update the thread when I know what the cause is

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    587
    An update would be great mate, a lot of us would appreciate it, as it helps other people when they have problems.

    Often these "what's wrong" threads don't get updated with a final fix.

    Cheers,

    Snowy

  10. #30
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    234
    Thread Starter

    One thing though, if I buy new bearings and rubbers I'll most likely get a torque wrench to install them this time, so how are you supposed to use a torque wrench without the whole assembly spinning? A socket in a torque wrench would prohibit you using an allen key to stop the spinning.

    I've been using this write-up as a guide http://www.nclh.org/car/coilover_howto/ and he appears to be using vice-grips on the top-hat, but I don't see how that would work.

Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
| |