Couldn't resist

[sports racer]

Thanks for the link, makes for interesting reading.

Is the 4motion throttle fly-by-wire or cable operated?

[jmcc]

That would be a question for beale187, I don't know much about the power train configurations of boras, just golf's.

Both have throttle drivers though, because the cable throttles still have electronic idle control.

It's easy enough to tell if you pop the hood though.

[beale187]

That would be a question for beale187, I don't know much about the power train configurations of boras, just golf's.

Both have throttle drivers though, because the cable throttles still have electronic idle control.

spot on, used to help increase idle when engine is under load (e.g. Turning the a/c on)

4motions are fly by wire as well.

[beale187]

That would be a question for beale187, I don't know much about the power train configurations of boras, just golf's.

Both have throttle drivers though, because the cable throttles still have electronic idle control.

spot on, used to help increase idle when engine is under load (e.g. Turning the a/c on)

4motions are fly by wire as well.

[sports racer]

Picked it up yesterday. When I drove it to my brothers about 5 ks away it was slow but kept up with the traffic (just). I got to 200 metres from his place and it lost all power, wouldn't rev at all past idle. I bunny hopped the last 200 metres and parked it for the night. Today I went back with a new fuel filter and it's heaps better. The old filter was so blocked I couldn't blow through it, no wonder it ran so bad. Glad it was the previous owner and not me who spent heaps on troubleshooting by the "experts" and replacing parts that they said were faulty.

I spent a whole $23 for the filter and it's much better. There's power below 2500 rpm but not much above that so I drove the 100 ks home in 6th all the way. By the time I got home the powerband was up to 2700. At this rate it should be ok by Christmas.

How long does it take for the computer to reset itself now that it has proper fuel pressure? Should I disconnect the battery to help it reset?

Cheers

Paul

[beale187]

Filter sounds like it was pretty nasty. D/c the battery will reset the ECU but it won't clear any fault codes. Probably couldn't hurt to clean the MAF and run some injector cleaner through as well or a tank or 2 of 98. Not sure if it's a case of how long or how many kms I think it's more to with certain driving conditions being met. Eg, cold start, 1/2 throttle, WOT, xx km p/hr for xx mins etc... there's a check list floating around somewhere

[sports racer]

I've started to pull it apart to fix things. This is to get the right headlight out so I could reconnected the adjustment mechanism. The stick is there to hold the bonnet because it was very windy and just before this picture was taken the bonnet slammed down on my hand.



I've done 300ks with the injector cleaner and disconnected the battery for a couple of hours and then reconnecting and leaving the ignition on for 30 min but I still have a problem with the throttle. It feels like the throttle body isn't opening up all the way and I still have the EPC warning light constantly on. I think it's time to get an ELM327 OBD2 scanner so I can clear the codes and find out what's making the EPC light come on.

[sports racer]

I scanned it and get the following 4 fault codes 1) P1630 2) P3211 3) P3212 4) P1426 and 1 pending code - P0102.

Are these descriptions correct and how do I fix them?

P1630 - Accelerator pedal position sensor low input
P3211 - Oxygen (Lambda) sensor B1 S1 Heater return coupling
P3212 - Crankshaft position sensor A circuit low input
P1426 - Tank ventilation valve open circuit
P0102 - MAF sensor circuit low voltage

Some more info. When I disconnect the MAF sensor it makes no difference to the running of the engine - it doesn't idle differently or run rough.

I took off the intake pipe to see what the throttle butterfly valve was doing. With the engine idling then pushing the pedal to the floor it opens all the way for a fraction of a second then closes so it's almost shut. If I keep the pedal to the floor it revs to 5200 and goes no further.

With a bit of luck cleaning or replacing the accelerator sensor will give me the acceleration I'm missing. Then I'll see if the other faults come back when I scan it after that.

Cheers

Paul

[Bora Sport]

With all those other potential faults, the MAF test probably isn't valid.

Also sometimes one fault will cause another. For example is the mixture isn't right you might end up with an oxygen sensor fault.

[sports racer]

Yeah, I'm finding that out the hard way. Took the accelerator pedal off (major hassle because of the water protection cover) and cleaned the contacts. Made no difference so tried one off an Audi which behaved exactly the same.

Got the sh*ts so put on the towbar. Much easier to do.