On the fan continuing my .:R does that sometimes for 15 seconds after i turn it off. Can't help with the MAF
I saw a can of CRC Mass air flow cleaner at the auto shop, and decided to get it as i heard that these things can be problematic on our cars. i've also noticed my fuel economy decrease over the last year so i thought this might help.
boy was i wrong.
i took it out, sprayed it a few times (i assume it's an alcohol type solvent), and let it dry as per the instructions. put it back in the air box, tightened up the hose clamp on the TIP, and reconnected the power lead to the MAF. Only issue really was getting the top of the air box back on, was a bit of a struggle, and i can actually see a little bit of the red rubber from the air filter sticking out where the box looks a little bowed in the middle...
anyway, i turned the car on, and she seemed good after a quick drive around the block. i drive it a few hours later (after a good in and out clean of the car), and realised that it wasn't driving right, it seemed i had lost all my boost! I got this car chipped with a unitronic stage 1 flash a few weeks ago, and that huge surge of power i would get around 2-3000revs was almost non existant. (note, this is the only mod i have to my '03 gti)
It felt like it had gone back to the boring stock program with no grunt
i was hoping that i was just imagining it, but i'm convinced somethings gone wrong. i did a test today, and unplugged the connection to the MAF, and the car started fine, with no warning lights (apparantly because it's not drive by wire as seb said), and i took it for a drive, and it still drove somehow, and felt just as it had when it was plugged in.
I don't have time untill the weekend to take it to seb, but i gave him a quick buzz this avo and he suggested disconnecting the battery because the car might have gone into limp(?) mode... but i'd describe it more as lame stock mode...
anyway, i tried a quick dissconnect, nothing. then a 2+ hour disconnect to reset the ecu, but still no change to the performance.
So what do you think happened?
Did i take the very last bit of life out of my MAF?
My only other thoughts are that possibly when fighting with the MAF removal/reinstallation, i created an air leak somewhere? like maybe somewhere on the TIP, or maybe the top of the air box isn't on right.
only other thing i can think of is i might have pulled on the two cables that go past the air box, one of which i think is the throttle cable, and perhaps i've limited the max throttle position??
I'm positive i put the power lead back on properly so i no longer think thats the problem...
I'm just hoping the MAF is ok, don't think they're cheap.
BTW, todays lesson, if it aint broke, don't try fix it
Oh one more thing which freaked me out tonight, i locked the car, started to walk away, but could hear a fan sound coming out of my car!!!!
I thought i was imagining it, but no, i popped the hood, and i could feel air being blown up from the front of the car, i couldn't see what was on because it was dark, but i put the key in, started the car again and turned it off, and then this mysterious fan stopped...??? Is this related?
Last edited by McDub; 21-09-2009 at 10:19 PM.
On the fan continuing my .:R does that sometimes for 15 seconds after i turn it off. Can't help with the MAF
2010 Skoda Octavia vRS Wagon
The fan is just your thermo fan cooling down the remaining hot coolant in your radiator and cooling system.
As for the MAF, it's probably now not over-fueling as it's getting correct air flow readings through it, so maybe get a VAGcom to check it and see what kind of readings it's picking up.....
Stage 2+ Intercooler Carbon Intake Downpipe Swaybar DV+ Remsa.
i was gonna say check actual vs requested boost but your car is not drive by wire. Log block 002 for maf reading, a chipped car should be around 160-170g/s. if you get less than that your maf is prob bad. if you are concerned about the throttle cable you can log block 001 which gives you throttle angle.
1.8T AGU | K04 | GIAC | 380cc | VR6 MAF | Custom Intake | FMIC | TIP | 3bar FPR | N75J | 42DD 3-2.5" TB | GFB DV | FK Highsport | ECS Stage 1 Clutch | OZ FUTURA
Check the boost hose perhaps - they're braided type (well on my passat 1.8t it was) and can split. Lose all boost when that happens.
yeah i've been meaning to get a VAGCOM cable, though am not sure which one to get... been checking around on ebay for the usb ones, they all the same? anyone reccomend one with the right software?
but regarding my car, i drove it today and damn it just felt like crap, so weak.
will hopefully get it looked at tomorrow, fingers crossed it goes well...
Regarding VAGCOM cable, try http://www.ross-tech.com. I think most people from this forum buy from rosstech. Especially now our dollar is that good. Good luck.
2009 .:R32 5Door Black Magic DSG Sunroof Stubby Antenna
2007 Honda CBR1000RR Fireblade Yoshimura RS5 Carbon Fibre Pipe
well we decided it probably was the MAF that has died, so gonna get a new one from chatswood classic cars tomorrow, will cost about $300 which really sux.
anyway i tried to clean it again, cos who knows maybe it could reverse what i did (wishfull thinking)
but upon looking around the engine bay, i found a suspicious loose component.
can anyone identify what this is? and where it goes???
here's the back of it. seems to have a mounting plate on it. and underneath there's a hole which looks like it could be some kind of sensor... dunno
another thing i noticed, i got my stereo installed 9 months ago by one of the main guys in the business... i have to say this looks very suspicious, the positive wire to the amps is very loosely running up against what looks to be a mechanical part in the engine bay... not sure what it is but doesn't look like a good idea... what is this moving arm?
Last edited by McDub; 03-10-2009 at 11:52 AM.
according to the part number on it its a "Switch - Altitude corrector"
the bottom picture looks like the cable shift mechanism. The long weird looking thing is actually a weight that makes the shift feel nicer
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