Cannot seem to fix non-functional drivers door lock, power window and mirrors. Help!

[RubAVeeDubDub]

Hi all,

I've been having serious issues with my drivers side door and any function to do with it. Nothing on the door or associated with the door works - i.e. Power windows, Power mirrors, and locks on the drivers door do not work whatsoever. It's like the door gets no power, however during my testing I have found it does.
Only the drivers door is having problems. All other windows work using the window switch on each door. Also all other door locks lock from the key fob or boot.

So far to solve the problem I have:
- Tested drivers door window regulator on passenger door - Does work but winds strangely.
- Replaced the driver door lock module with two different used units.
- Replaced power window regulator, drivers door loom and drivers power window switches. No change.
- Checked & Swapped No.53 relay's under steering wheel. All working fine.
- Checked for power in drivers door loom with multimeter. Evidence of power at power window reg/control module, at power window switch and power mirror switch.

During my checking - I did however found that a water leak that has caused corrosion on the dash harness where it connects to the door loom. However the harness/connector is still emitting 12v's of power.

I was looking at the door loom harness and there doesn't seem to be enough wires to suggest a closed loop circuit exists for the drivers door so I'm wondering if the drivers door operates in line with a module like a BCM/BEM (Body control module) ? Maybe my BEM is stuffed and not responding to the inputs/signals from the drivers door?
Strangely Enough everything else works fine including the interior light coming on for all doors sans the drivers door and the sunroof operating perfectly fine as well.

Does anyone have any idea why despite my drivers door having power, why none of the driver door power functions & locks are responding?

Really appreciate any help. Car is unregisterred and cannot be registered until I fix this issue

Thanks!

[vdubmotorworx]

Have you checked your earth im the door loom at the flexi joint covered by the rubber boot? When you are checking your main feed for 12 volts what earth are you using your multimeter on? Dont use just thd car body...use the main earth wire in the door. If you are still getting 12v then ok. If no volts or low voltage check your earth wire in the door loom for breaks or cracks.....especially behind that rubber boot towards the inner door end....VDUB...

[RubAVeeDubDub]

Is there an actual earth for the door in the door?
The only earth I've found is inside the car, in the footwell, right next to where the harness for the door loom meets the dash loom.

What do you mean by flexi joint sorry - the rubber boot between the door and the body in which the wires go through into the cabin?
If so, then I have actually removed the door loom from inside the door to inspect and test.

Admittedly I've been using the tin that covers the inside of the door as an earth for my multimeter. I'll try again with using the factory grounding locations.

Thanks heaps for the reply and help mate!!

[vdubmotorworx]

I mean the earth wire in the door there is no earth in the door. Yes the rubber boot in place you said. You could do with a wiring diagram

[RubAVeeDubDub]

I mean the earth wire in the door there is no earth in the door. Yes the rubber boot in place you said. You could do with a wiring diagram

Thanks for that.

Well I've actually ripped out the original door loom and bought a 2nd hand one from the wreckers in order to try and eliminate that being the problem. Nonetheless, both of the looms I have still have the protective tape around it so I didn't think they'd have any chance of being cracked/broken. Might have to pick it off and see - however once that tape comes off, it ain't going back on unfortunately

Yes, I'd love a wiring diagram. I can read them and it'd help heaps. Where can I get one from ?

Also, if the earth wire isn;t the problem, then what is?
IS the comfort module/BCM cactus? Can this be replaced with a 2nd hand unit or needs to be brand new?

[Umai Naa!!]

Try swapping the window motor, as from memory, it doubles up as the door control module.

[RubAVeeDubDub]

Try swapping the window motor, as from memory, it doubles up as the door control module.

Thanks

Have done with a 2nd hand one from the wreckers. No change.
Also plugged both of them into the passenger side wiring and they do work, albeit rather weirdly.
Have also checked power across the terminals and they are getting 12v's at multiple locations.

:/

[Umai Naa!!]

Find the big fat brown wire in the door harness, this is the earth.

Find either a fat red wire, or a fat red wire with a thin yellow trace (line). These are 12V, one is an ignition ON feed, the other is battery voltage.

Red m/meter lead on the red wire, black lead on the earth, and test that the ground circuit is ok. If it's all ok, you should get a 12V-ish reading. If not, try running a new earth temporarily, either to an earth point on the car body (there's usually one or two easily-accessable ones under the dash), or straight to the battery negative terminal.

Also a chance there's a backed-out wire in the connector in the A-pillar. If you remove the bonnet release lever, and that lower kick panel trim behind it, you should be able to remove the connector from the pillar and have a good look at it.

[RubAVeeDubDub]

Find the big fat brown wire in the door harness, this is the earth.

Find either a fat red wire, or a fat red wire with a thin yellow trace (line). These are 12V, one is an ignition ON feed, the other is battery voltage.

Red m/meter lead on the red wire, black lead on the earth, and test that the ground circuit is ok. If it's all ok, you should get a 12V-ish reading. If not, try running a new earth temporarily, either to an earth point on the car body (there's usually one or two easily-accessable ones under the dash), or straight to the battery negative terminal.

Also a chance there's a backed-out wire in the connector in the A-pillar. If you remove the bonnet release lever, and that lower kick panel trim behind it, you should be able to remove the connector from the pillar and have a good look at it.

Awesome! Thanks!
I will check the those wires for a circuit.

Also, have checked that connector in the footwell - It has been corroded from a water leak (leak now fixed) but is still carrying 12v's of power. Judging by the connector, it doesn't look like there's enough wires for a complete closed circuit to exist for the door in the door, so I'm guessing that any input from the door (power windows, mirrors etc) all goes to the comfort module/BCM to respond and action?
I'm considering resoldering in a non-corrded connector or even replacing the comfort module.
Thoughts?

[RubAVeeDubDub]

For those playing at home - I solved the issue!

Not exactly sure what was the sole cause, but what I do know is that when I tested fitted replacement looms, window regulators and switches, I didn't fit the regulator to the door skin which meant that it was not getting grounded. I have now got my replacement door loom & power window switches fitted with the factory window regulator and power windows controller.
Either way, it works again!

I suspect the actual cause of it all was a faulty door lock module coupled with maybe a short circuited switch/loom from the water that used to leak into the cabin.