Bora rear camber

[revhead1016]

To you all Bora and MI owner, when you lower your car did you have to put a shim at the rear to correct the camber. I just change fit a lower springs on my car and had them align, the mechanic said, the both align and he didn’t have to do anything at the rear but it moves from 1.5 to 2.8 positive cambers. I am worried that this could eat up my tires within 2 months of driving or is this ok.

cheers

[kapowww]

You mean negative camber right..

I just left the camber but whether you want to correct it or not is up to you. My personal way of thinking is that it's a fwd biased AWD system so it's not as bad as it was on my old 180sx.

[dylan8]

the 4mo boras will camber more the lower you go.
can get control arms to control it and adjust it to needed

[revhead1016]

yes neg,

So how you going with the tyres, is it eating up the inside quick?
by looking at the picture of your car, looks like you have a spacer as well. I have a 32mm spacer put on in my at the rear. I wonder if this play a part with the camber changes.

did you guys made anychanges of did you leave it as it is?

found this on the net
http://www.ingallseng.com/31520-vw-r...-shims.htmladd i

[revhead1016]

the 4mo boras will camber more the lower you go.
can get control arms to control it and adjust it to needed

Did you leave yours as it is?

[Manaz]

If you lower the car significantly, you'll put significant negative camber and positive toe variation on the rear wheels - it's just the way the suspension geometry is on the 4Mo chassis (the R32 has the same issue). Even with my PSS9s set not very low, I chewed out the inside of my rear tyres in < 10,000km - the camber isn't so much the issue as the toe (you end up dragging the inner edge of the tyres across the road as well as having them leaning inward at the top).

Don't use static camber shims, they'll only work properly at one particular lowered height (they'll be wrong if you lower more or less than the geometry they produce is desgined for).

The best option is adjustable control arms for the rear suspension. There are two arms on each side - if you just replace the lower arms, you get decent camber adjustability, and once you bring the camber in to a more "standard" setting, the toe should be reasonably good too.

For more fine tuned control of both camber and toe, you can replace both upper and lower arms - with this setup, you can pretty much independently control camber and toe to get exactly the settings you want.

ECSTuning sell both their own brand of adjustable rear control arms as well as the Gruvenparts ones. If you're interested, I can get you a price.

[revhead1016]

If you lower the car significantly, you'll put significant negative camber and positive toe variation on the rear wheels - it's just the way the suspension geometry is on the 4Mo chassis (the R32 has the same issue). Even with my PSS9s set not very low, I chewed out the inside of my rear tyres in < 10,000km - the camber isn't so much the issue as the toe (you end up dragging the inner edge of the tyres across the road as well as having them leaning inward at the top).

Don't use static camber shims, they'll only work properly at one particular lowered height (they'll be wrong if you lower more or less than the geometry they produce is desgined for).

The best option is adjustable control arms for the rear suspension. There are two arms on each side - if you just replace the lower arms, you get decent camber adjustability, and once you bring the camber in to a more "standard" setting, the toe should be reasonably good too.

For more fine tuned control of both camber and toe, you can replace both upper and lower arms - with this setup, you can pretty much independently control camber and toe to get exactly the settings you want.

ECSTuning sell both their own brand of adjustable rear control arms as well as the Gruvenparts ones. If you're interested, I can get you a price.

That would be great Thanks.

[dylan8]

Did you leave yours as it is?

mine is a FWD car, I used the shims you linked but thats because its the only option.
yours can be controlled with the arms that Manaz suggested

and no, spacers/adapaters/agressive offset wheels do not play any part in a car having more or less camber

[Speed]

mine is a FWD car, I used the shims you linked but thats because its the only option.
yours can be controlled with the arms that Manaz suggested

and no, spacers/adapaters/agressive offset wheels do not play any part in a car having more or less camber

Dylan,
Are you happy with the shims and are you using one per side?
If I get the camber shims, I'm not sure if that will change tow in or do I need both?

I understand that mine is a different set up compared to the 4-mo's.


Thanks heaps and sorry to bring back an old thread!!!

[dylan8]

Dylan,
Are you happy with the shims and are you using one per side?
If I get the camber shims, I'm not sure if that will change tow in or do I need both?

I understand that mine is a different set up compared to the 4-mo's.


Thanks heaps and sorry to bring back an old thread!!!

yes im using one per side, but some can be stacked.

each shim is different, mine didnt need camber adjustment, but once I lowered the car and the rear beam 'rolled forward' (typical mk4 FWD thing) the camber turns to toe in.
because I only did 1deg each side on top of factory it wasnt worth trying to work out the shim side to correct the toe or shim the brake calliper.
Mine had obvious toe in but was still within 'ok' results when the alignment guys checked it. I did wear out some tyres a bit quicker then the fronts due to the toe in wear (no sign of camber wear however, just toe)


So you really need to have the height of your car set to where you want, and have someone work out how to shim it at that piont, NOT when its lifted up on a jack or square on the rear beam