Anyone want a UniBrace?

[Manaz]

Hey Manz - have you had any takers yet for the second brace?
I might just be interested.
Cheers,
David

Nobody's confirmed anything just yet. First in wins the prize!

nah i def heard they had flimsy bodies, but i've never heard of people all having this same creaking issue! anyone know more about it???

if the brace would fix it, i'd consider it if i didn't have stupid amps bolted to my rear seat...

Think of a carboard box - even without bending the sides, it's relatively easy to change the shape of it by squeezing opposite corners in, or pushing one edge along its length. The Unibrace (and other braces) seek to fix that by stopping the change of angle in the corners, which, as long as you don't bend something, stops the shape of the rear of the car from changing.

Time for an amp relocation?

[McDub]

Think of a carboard box - even without bending the sides, it's relatively easy to change the shape of it by squeezing opposite corners in, or pushing one edge along its length. The Unibrace (and other braces) seek to fix that by stopping the change of angle in the corners, which, as long as you don't bend something, stops the shape of the rear of the car from changing.

Time for an amp relocation?

yeah i undestand the rigidity of a triangle
just wondering what the creaking sound both myself, rikard1 and dubbed seem to have. if it's just the chasis flexing then sounds like a unibrace or simillar is needed...
hmmm amp relocatoin, not many places to put em...

[rikard1]

yeah i undestand the rigidity of a triangle
just wondering what the creaking sound both myself, rikard1 and dubbed seem to have. if it's just the chasis flexing then sounds like a unibrace or simillar is needed...
hmmm amp relocatoin, not many places to put em...

screw the amps to the brace no?

and i hear the creaking mostly from the driver's side rear tower and the driver's side B pillar ...my concern is that with the rear towers solid all the flex would occur around the B pillar and doors.

...is there such thing a chassis brace? something like a cross shape brace underneath the car? id like to have ther car tight as before i throw some coilovers and more power in?

[McDub]

screw the amps to the brace no?

suppose you could, though then it'd be even more work to remove if you needed to transport something large in the car...

and i hear the creaking mostly from the driver's side rear tower and the driver's side B pillar ...my concern is that with the rear towers solid all the flex would occur around the B pillar and doors.

...is there such thing a chassis brace? something like a cross shape brace underneath the car? id like to have ther car tight as before i throw some coilovers and more power in?

i doubt it, to stop that sort of flex you'd probably have to go all out and go with a roll cage!
but you're probably worrying too much about it. yes you will probably get more flex in the middle of the car as a result of stiffening the rear, but overall the car will still be stiffer.

[Manaz]

screw the amps to the brace no?

and i hear the creaking mostly from the driver's side rear tower and the driver's side B pillar ...my concern is that with the rear towers solid all the flex would occur around the B pillar and doors.

...is there such thing a chassis brace? something like a cross shape brace underneath the car? id like to have ther car tight as before i throw some coilovers and more power in?

Think of it this way - where are the only points of contact between the chassis and the ground - and thus where's the best place to brace?

Other options for tightening the car up are stitch welding the seams - this adds material to the seam, which is all welded into one solid mass.

You don't do it all the way along, just a short bit followed by a break, followed by a short bit. Like this:
__ __ __ __ __ __ __ __

This adds strength, reduces the additional weight which would be added by welding the entire seam, and also avoids the potential for a bad weld to cause issues (as each weld is only relatively short, and you're leaving as much of the seam unwelded, and thus in its original state, as you are welded).

[tigger19]

Manaz did you find out the updated price? Still interested - when do you need to know?

[Manaz]

Price for a Golf version (Bora version is different, but that won't affect you) is USD$275. Add your share of the USD$225 postage (so USD$112.50), so USD$387.50 to land it in Australia - would then need to get it to you in Vic somehow, though I don't think that'd be too expensive.

[rikard1]

good info guys, im sold on the brace but that will be a little later ..first i wanna get an alarm sorted as my car didnt come with keyless entry and although it has the standard immobiliser i figure its a good opportunity to add some nifty features like, remote windows open/close, coming/leaving home lights, more lighting in the cabin, etc.

[tigger19]

Price for a Golf version (Bora version is different, but that won't affect you) is USD$275. Add your share of the USD$225 postage (so USD$112.50), so USD$387.50 to land it in Australia - would then need to get it to you in Vic somehow, though I don't think that'd be too expensive.

So according to XE.COM tonight that is $422.716 AUD If it is not too late PM me how we can set this up.