AGU 1.8T rebuild

[CupraGTi]

Hey guys,

I am about to jump into rebuilding my AGU from my 2001 Golf GTi. I've had engine rebuilt before, but never a VW engine..
My aim is to rebuild it with bits and pieces so as to up the power and maintain reliability.

In the past, I have been less than happy with the results from a "Rebuild". Maybe I took my past engines to less than average workshops. This time when I have it rebuilt, I'm going to source all the parts first, then just drop them into the engine builder, so as just to pay for labour.

In saying that, I only have minimal mechanical knowledge, so I need to ask for some assistance please....

If I want to totally refresh the motor, what do I need to buy for the bottom end AS WELL as the top end??

I've seen new rods IE 1.8T 144X19 Drop-In-Rods VW Audi
(I've heard they are necessary when you want to up the power)

And the rod install kit from Integrated Engineering (which I think is American) IE 1.8T 144X19 Drop-In-Rods VW AudiIs that EVERYTHING I need for the bottom end?? or is there other stuff that I need to get in conjunction with this?

Do I NEED to get new forged pistons?? I've read conflicting reports that the AGU does have Mahle Forgies standard... Is it necessary to get new pistons?? Or if they look ok, can I just reuse the standard ones??

I'm not looking to bore or stroke the motor.

AS for the head... well I'm at a loss.. I understand the AGU is the big port, so it doesn't really need to be ported, and could in fact be detrimental to spool up time if I did?? Can I leave the head stock? Does the cam need to be upgraded if I'm going to be using a bigger turbocharger?

And last but certainly not least, The turbo itself... I see a FrankenTurbo that looks good value the F21 - https://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen...ger/ES2840949/ Has anyone used this before? It just looks like a beefed up KO3... The good thing is it looks like it will fit up to the stock location etc.. And you can run a stock tune (Until I get more money for Injectors/Standalone)

Would I be better off spending a bit more money and trying to get a GT28xx in there instead?? (I know the answer will be yes if I can afford it... but I don't wanna spend a gazzilion dollars)

Cheers guys, I look forward to your advice!

Kris

[h100vw]

You need to establish exactly where you are going with the build, before dropping 6 months wages into parts you don't need.

With a Frankenturbo, you don't really need to build the engine at all. It certainly doesn't need new pistons. The head doesn't need porting, although might need new guides. The cams are fine.

Standalone is a waste of money.

Don't buy 440cc injectors, they are crap.

IE are American.

Cheap, fast , reliable pick 2 is in someones signature. At some point there's a cross over where one will give up.

Look for Lito's build on his Golf.

Check out my Gavin's cheapy GTI"" thread and see what I have done to my Polo. Which is close enough to the Golf to be relevant.

You're not inventing the wheel here so google for builds on VWVortex in the US. It's all been done many times over.

Don't believe you can run it on a std tune, while saving money for management or a tune. It's too risky in my eyes.

All the above comes from personal experience.

Hey guys,

I am about to jump into rebuilding my AGU from my 2001 Golf GTi. I've had engine rebuilt before, but never a VW engine..
My aim is to rebuild it with bits and pieces so as to up the power and maintain reliability.

In the past, I have been less than happy with the results from a "Rebuild". Maybe I took my past engines to less than average workshops. This time when I have it rebuilt, I'm going to source all the parts first, then just drop them into the engine builder, so as just to pay for labour.

In saying that, I only have minimal mechanical knowledge, so I need to ask for some assistance please....

If I want to totally refresh the motor, what do I need to buy for the bottom end AS WELL as the top end??

I've seen new rods IE 1.8T 144X19 Drop-In-Rods VW Audi
(I've heard they are necessary when you want to up the power)

And the rod install kit from Integrated Engineering (which I think is American) IE 1.8T 144X19 Drop-In-Rods VW AudiIs that EVERYTHING I need for the bottom end?? or is there other stuff that I need to get in conjunction with this?

Do I NEED to get new forged pistons?? I've read conflicting reports that the AGU does have Mahle Forgies standard... Is it necessary to get new pistons?? Or if they look ok, can I just reuse the standard ones??

I'm not looking to bore or stroke the motor.

AS for the head... well I'm at a loss.. I understand the AGU is the big port, so it doesn't really need to be ported, and could in fact be detrimental to spool up time if I did?? Can I leave the head stock? Does the cam need to be upgraded if I'm going to be using a bigger turbocharger?

And last but certainly not least, The turbo itself... I see a FrankenTurbo that looks good value the F21 - https://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen...ger/ES2840949/ Has anyone used this before? It just looks like a beefed up KO3... The good thing is it looks like it will fit up to the stock location etc.. And you can run a stock tune (Until I get more money for Injectors/Standalone)

Would I be better off spending a bit more money and trying to get a GT28xx in there instead?? (I know the answer will be yes if I can afford it... but I don't wanna spend a gazzilion dollars)

Cheers guys, I look forward to your advice!

Kris

[CupraGTi]

Thanks Gavin,

Your Build looks interesting! I'll get some popcorn and read for the next few hours! Cheers for the reply.

Kris

[Sirocco20348]

"While saving money for management or a tune". This statement right here...

Remember to save up for decent gearbox, clutch, lsd, brakes, intercooler, suspension parts, silicone piping, refreshing old parts...

And at the end of the day you have a fast mk4 golf.

Not trying to put you off your grand plans. But unless you have disposable income, I wouldn't do it.

But start a build thread if you do because I like seeing what other people do.

[blackers10]

Lito's build shows how EVERYTHING needs upgrading as soon as you go the bigger turbo route...
you will need to upgrade engine mounts, clutch, make sure your gearbox is fresh and an LSD wouldn't go astray to get the power down.
the intercooler etc and CVs that will inevitably break if you give it a hard time.

best of luck its the reason I went as far as stage 2 with a k03s on my dirty old 237k km mk4 GTI the $$$ starts adding up FAST

[elcono]

Lito's build shows how EVERYTHING needs upgrading as soon as you go the bigger turbo route...
you will need to upgrade engine mounts, clutch, make sure your gearbox is fresh and an LSD wouldn't go astray to get the power down.
the intercooler etc and CVs that will inevitably break if you give it a hard time.

best of luck its the reason I went as far as stage 2 with a k03s on my dirty old 237k km mk4 GTI the $$$ starts adding up FAST

Just out of curiosity, what cars made it over here with the ko3s? or did you grab it from overseas?

EDIT
Doesnt matter, TT's with AUQ or ARY. Was looking at A3's but they appear to be in the same boat as GTI's

[h100vw]

Just out of curiosity, what cars made it over here with the ko3s? or did you grab it from overseas?

EDIT
Doesnt matter, TT's with AUQ or ARY. Was looking at A3's but they appear to be in the same boat as GTI's

Facelift A3's have AUM engines. Still rare though.

Gavin

[blackers10]

I got mine from Gav ^^ was just lucky he had one he didn't want anymore hehehe

[elcono]

Facelift A3's have AUM engines. Still rare though.

Gavin

Is that it then? just the TT and the facelift A3?

Bummer, no wonder none were turning up

[h100vw]

Is that it then? just the TT and the facelift A3?

Bummer, no wonder none were turning up

Polo GTI 2006-08.

In Europe they came on Skodas and SEATs too. You just need to think outside the box. Australia is a black hole for stuff like this.
Most you see in Europe on ebay, come from wrecked cars, which usually means that they were in use and not dead, before the car came off the road..

Just be prepared that worst case, you'll be down $3-400 to go that road. Plus the removal and refitting costs.

Gavin