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Thread: Advice needed please: 4Motion Haldex issue?

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Vic
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    11
    Users Country Flag Thread Starter

    I just had a response from Haldex Tech Department in Sweden and it seems we're all on exactly the right track.... most likely culprit is the controller.

    Here's the reply from Haldex: "I would say that it is most likely the valve in the Haldex controller, spar part number 02D 900 554 D or E (check with your spare part dealer) It is very unlikely that you would have to replace the whole unit."

    I'm really keen to try out the spare if that is possible too, I can easily be anywhere anytime... within Melb area anyway ; )

    I'll perform some more tests today when I put the fuse back in so I'll keep you posted.

    Thanks guys, much appreciated all the response so far.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Melbourne, VIC
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    365
    Hey any updates on this?

    I took out fuse #31 tonight and the problem disappeared so definitely the haldex in mine too.

    Another symptom I've found is that when reversing in a tight circle/full lock and you have some momentum, but you stop accelerating and clutch in, the car stops itself. Also it's difficult reversing and turning as the same problem occurs.
    VW Bora V6 4motion

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Vic
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    Users Country Flag Thread Starter
    Yeah the reversing scenario sounds identical to mine. I always just clutch in, increase the revs slightly and take off some lock and it seems to free it up enough. Although with fuse 31 removed I never encounter the issue in reverse at all of course.

    I'm hopefully testing another controller this/next week to confirm my suspicions as the problem area. Will post the results then.

    The quote from the official response from the Haldex tech department was very brief, infact it was basically just what I put in the other post.

    Cheers, guys. ; )

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Melbourne, VIC
    Posts
    365
    The dealer mechanic is confusing me now. Originally he said that it was a diff problem and it needed servicing, and now when I told him we disabled the haldex the problem disappeared so it's most likely the haldex. Now he says the haldex needs a servicing. From what I've been reading the diff and haldex are two different things, but he says they're sorta the same where the haldex is in the diff?

    Also, disabling the haldex doesn't necessarily rule out the diff right? If the haldex is disabled then the rear wheels won't be used anyway? ..or does the diff still affect free-rolling rear wheels? Sorry I don't know much about this stuff.
    VW Bora V6 4motion

  5. #15
    Sorry to bring up such an old thread, but the issue didn't seem to be resolved above and when i experienced the same issue this post kept popping up in my Google searches.

    My 2003 Bora 4motion had the exact same problem with the haldex unit locking up on tight turns and "hopping". I went and saw Seb at Euro Auto tech in Girraween and he replaced my haldex controller with one from another car with low kms. This completely resolved the issue immediately.

    I suggest finding a second hand unit and getting it installed. Mine cost me about $200 including install.

    Hope this helps!
    Sam Brennan
    2003 Bora 4motion - Mk5 R32 Swapped

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Melbourne, VIC
    Posts
    365
    Nice one! I had to change the whole haldex/rear diff assembly which cost ~$2000 (paid for by the dealer so all good).

    Quote Originally Posted by Brenno69 View Post
    Sorry to bring up such an old thread, but the issue didn't seem to be resolved above and when i experienced the same issue this post kept popping up in my Google searches.

    My 2003 Bora 4motion had the exact same problem with the haldex unit locking up on tight turns and "hopping". I went and saw Seb at Euro Auto tech in Girraween and he replaced my haldex controller with one from another car with low kms. This completely resolved the issue immediately.

    I suggest finding a second hand unit and getting it installed. Mine cost me about $200 including install.

    Hope this helps!
    VW Bora V6 4motion

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    57
    Users Country Flag
    Quote Originally Posted by Brenno69 View Post
    I suggest finding a second hand unit and getting it installed. Mine cost me about $200 including install.

    Hope this helps!
    I'm having the same issue and this thread has helped a great deal... But is anyone able to give me a part number for the controller?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    || Bora 4motion Sport ||

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Batemans bay
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    Mine was doing similar things .... Take fuse 31 out all was quiet .... I had the haldex serviced - oil wasn't that dirty there just wasn't enough if it - and the noise grabbing grinding sound went instantly ... It's not hard to do an oil change ... Just mark sure you get ALL the oil into the right unit ...

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
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    upper coomera Qld
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    That's the same problem I am having with my 4motion bora as well

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Australia
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    I'm certainly no expert about cars so I thought some of the experts here might be able to guide me a bit.

    I've got a 2006 Passat 4motion 3.2L Wagon which has just reached 100,000km. Bought it 2nd hand thinking VW is a reliable brand and the k's this car had done wasn't bad, but I've had a lot of trouble with it. The problem I have now involves the Haldex and rear diff. I've currently got the car at an authorised VW dealer in Perth because the car started making horrendous noises (knocking, clunking, grinding) while I was driving. It was that bad I stopped immediately and got it towed. The mechanics have told me that the Haldex Control Unit failed, which caused the Haldex/diff to go haywire. So they said I needed to replace the Control Unit - total $3,000.

    Now they've done that and now they said the noise from the diff area is still quite bad so there is most likely damage to the Haldex coupling and rear diff from when the control unit failed. They claim to not be able to tell whether it's the diff or haldex coupling (or both) that's damaged. So ultimately the only way to fix it is to replace the whole Rear Diff Assembly - approx $10,000. Does this sound right to you?

    Now the car is definitely not worth fixing for that much money so my question is - where do I go from here? (bearing in mind that I spent $6,000 on fixing a major engine problem only about 6 months ago).

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