1.8T GTi Swap into Bora

[James Dean]

This is the engine conversion that I personally completed myself. All the information in this thread is based on my experience. All the information is correct to my knowledge; some may be incorrect. Feel free to correct it.

The engine in question is a 1.8L 20 valve turbo engine out of a MK4 GTi.
The car I put it in is a 2.0L in a MK4 Bora. I may refer to the Bora as a Jetta in this thread purely because I hate the name "Bora".

Can I do it?
If you are asking the question whether you are capable of the job or not it may be a little bit over your head, however if you have the will and tools you shouldn't have too much trouble.

Parts you need.
You will need the following from the donor car without a doubt.
Engine.
ECU.
Cluster.
Ignition barrel.
Key.
Parts that would be a good idea to get.
Engine wiring loom.
Gearbox.
CV joints.
Front brakes.
Knuckles.

Basic tools will be needed. A full ratchet set (Including a 30mm), screw drivers, torque keys, torque bits, allan keys, pliers, multi grips, breaker bar and any other tools you may need along the journey.

I also highly suggest having an engine crane, it will make life much easier.

To start off you will want to disconnect the battery. Followed by removing the front end. To remove the bonnet pull off the sound deadening on the underneath off, there are two little black caps along the front (near the windshield), this is where the water jets hide. Disconnect the hose in there and then you can pull it out from the side. Then continue to remove bonnet.

Remove the entire front end. Remove the plastics, grill, then the front bumper, followed by the headlights and the main bumper support. Note that there are wires the connect to the headlights and the front bumper that require disconnecting.

Drain the coolant. To do so pull the knob on the bottom of the radiator and take the cap off the coolant bottle.

Next take off the radiator support this is held in by several torque screws. It is at this point that you need to disconnect the bonnet catch. After all that is out you should be able to begin to pull the radiator support off. As it begins to come off you need to disconnect several wires that go to the fans and all that. You will also need to use an allan key to disconnect the air-conditioning component that sits on the rad support. Disconnect the hoses going from the radiator.

That should be it all so time to pull the rad support off and place somewhere safe.

Remove the battery.
Remove the airbox.

Look arround the engine bay. Any that is connected the engine and doesn't loop back to the engine needs to be removed. This includes, fuel lines, coolant lines and what ever goes through them. Don't worry about the wires yet.

Disconnect the gear selector. Unbolt the bolt in middle of the shifter (don't worry it's toothed and notched so it can't go on wrong) Disconnect the clutch. Either unbolt the hydraulic pushy thing (name escapes me) and pull it out at a whole or disconnect the fluid feed. You will also need to undo the CV joints at the gearbox. It uses a large torque bit so I hope you have some.

Pull off the weather tray. It just clips in so keep on pulling and yanking it. Be careful, they break easy. I snapped mine.

Pull the plastic off the top of the wiring tunnel to expose the wires.
Disconnect loom from the ECU. Do this by pulling the little tab on the end and it will pretty much fall off. Pull the wiring out of the top of the firewall and tunnel and have it all sit on the top of the engine. Now the left side of the loom it is easier to disconnect those wires from the engine side.

Undo the exhaust at the slip over section after the cat. (Also disconnect the wires they connect in the little black box)

From memory that should be everything disconnected.

I used an engine crane so this part is with one.
Pull the engine crane over the top and strap the engine. I ran one strap to the each main mount. On the drivers side I strapped it through the mount and on the passenger side I strapped it to the metal bar between the engine mount and bell housing.

Undo the dog mount under the car and remove it.
Make sure the crane has the weight of the engine without lifting the car.
Remove the bolts on the remaining two engine mounts.

At this point the engine will be 'floating' in the engine bay. I rolled the car back to remove the engine, some people pull the crane back. Do what tickles your fancy but only a little bit. As the engine is pulled forward it is time to get under the car and undo the exhaust manifold. There are six bolts. Have fun.

When the engine is out remove the rest of the loom. One wire runs to the exhaust. Bit of a pain to get out.

With everything out now is the perfect time to give the engine bay a bit of a clean up. If the previous owner of your car was as incompetent as mine you will find some thick oil in some very odd places. Also while the engine is out remove the ECU. I used a coat-hanger. Just loop it and hook it on the back of the black brackets on each side and bend them back slightly. Then wiggle it out. Push in the new ECU and push the clips back.

Now to pull out the exhaust and CV's. The exhaust on the 2L wouldn't slide out from between the K frame and body. I cut mine because it was dead. The only other way is to undo the K frame. It wont slide out. For the CV's it is best to have the car on the ground so the wheels don't turn. Use the 30mm socket piece on a breaker bar. If you are going to use an extension make sure it is forged I snapped one trying to undo the bolt. It's on fairly tight so don't give up.

So pretty much do everything in reverse. The engine mounts are the same so it doesn't matter which you use.

Some lines are different, I.e. the vacuum lines. It is easiest to place them on the engine and follow the molding to where it is supposed to go. Run the wires up to the ECU line they were previously and plug them in.

--

Interior Electronics

Remove the cluster.
To do this you need to remove the bottom half of the drivers side dash. Including the plastics around the ignition. To remove the little plastic under the cluster with the material you need to just pull it off. Undo the 2 torque bolts under the cluster. Put your hand up through the dash and push the cluster from behind to start removing it. The wires will get tight but the passengers side has more slack so twist the cluster so you can get the clips off the back. Then put the new cluster in.

Ignition barrel.
There are little holes in the face of the ignition barrel. You need to put a long pin down one. Needs to be at least about an inch. Twist the key 90 degrees and the insert of the barrel will slide out. Do the same with the donor cars barrel.

Using the donor car key start the car.

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Problems?

The only problem I had and found out how to conquer was the immobiliser. That thing is a pain. Keep in mind that if the car is started 3 times with the wrong key or something wrong in the IMMO process it will "lock" you out. To fix this remove the battery. I left mine off over night not sure if it works instantly or not. If it is the IMMO that is not letting the car start the car will start then cut out after approx. 1 second. A little light will light up in the cluster. It is a car with a key inside it.

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Things that are different between the USA Jetta and the Australian Jetta.

We don't have different hub sizes. In the USA the Jetta had an 11" brake with a smaller hub while the GTi had a 12" brake with the bigger hub. In Australia they shared the same hub. The Jetta uses an 11.5" brake where the GTi uses a 12" brake (visually appears this way some can confirm?).

The immobiliser in the USA uses a IMMO1 for pre 99 and a IMMO2 for post 00. (From memory). In Aus the Jetta uses a IMMO2 across the board of the MK4. (Almost 100% confirm?) This makes life a lot easier for us.

Now I am pretty sure that is everything. If you have any questions please feel free to reply of PM me.

[Coralon]

So you have a running 1.8t Bora? Must be one of the only ones in the country if you do as I am pretty sure they didnt offer that package over here. Nice upgrade, some pics

[James Dean]

So you have a running 1.8t Bora? Must be one of the only ones in the country if you do as I am pretty sure they didnt offer that package over here. Nice upgrade, some pics

I sure do.
Apparently the only one? A few people have said it.

[Stan]

well done James - good idea- swap the whole bloody lot!

I'm still chasing issues with mine

Post up some pics mate- love to see it

[rayray086]

Awesome, good work!!

[dylan8]

awesome work James!! Im very jealous.
Always had me confused when you kept referring to a jetta, didnt know if you also had a mk5.
As i said to you on facebook, only one bar a grey imported one, yours is probably the only Aussie built one.

[Lito]

Saw this thing at the oxenford car show yesterday, very clean swap, looks completely factory. Looking forward to the 500hp build

[GoLfMan]

where is all the photos at!!

[Blitzen]

It's funny I saw this thread, cos I saw a dark blue Mk4 Bora here in Canberra yesterday with a 1.8T badge on the boot lid. I'm not sure if it is the real deal, but it made me do a double take.

[governor22]

typical ch00b question, but what is so good about having the 1.8T in the bora ? wouldn't it be underpowered ? or do you just tune the **** out of it ?