The Wheelchair Accessible Campervan

[Bryn23]

Well,

I Finally got around to starting my Wheelchair Campervan build, I've had a few delays along the way, most of them not due to me.

I finally received my new 2017 3200kg GVM midroof LWB Mid February and booked it into get the side loading lift only to find out that the lift wasn't ordered, even though i gave notice and put down my deposit, so i had a 11 week wait until it arrived from Germany

So apart from a few drives, it's been sitting in the basement until the lift was installed.

Had the Swivel seats installed as well as an E-Brake, while it was in the engineers, so i could remove the handbrake to allow the seat to swivel with the handbrake on.

The RIB bed was installed, ages ago, haven't slept on it yet, but it seems comfy and we picked a up a couple of Duvalays with memory foam to a better sleep, still airing out these and the RIB bed as the VOC are still a bit harsh.

So on the weekend i started to sound deaden and insulate the van, i am going a different way to how some people insulate, but i feel it will work and I've seen it done overseas, so I've got no issues with it.

I am using Resomat sound deadener, its an Australian made sound deadener, and it doesn't have butyl or bitumen as the deadening compound, it its a lot easier to install than Dynamat, and doesn't stink as at all.. I've used dynamite before, and i could never get rid of the smell, so i looked for different options for a camper van.

I also used a 10mm closed cell self adhesive foam with a aluminium reflective foil layer that i got from Hong Kong, and then 50mm reflective aluminium tape to cover all joints and to seal the foam against the edges.

The guessing game is to see if the self adhesive foam holds, as normally i would just spray contact adhesive and bond it to the van. time will tell.

Before applying the sound deadener, Closed Foam and tape, i cleaned the areas with isopropyl.

Anyhow, here is a few pics of the sound deadener and closed foam.


Resomat


Close Cell foam and taped


Resomat (i did roll the air bubbles out)



Close Cell Foam and Taped




Still have the Sliding Door, Tail Gate and Rear Panels to do this week, but at least I've finally started

[Bryn23]

Still working on the sound proofing and insulation, its made quite a difference, so far and i haven't carpeted it yet.

But ill still have a little more to do, but access is proving a little tough, but I'm getting there, just have the tailgate, bottom of the sliding door to do and the cubby hole between the mid roof and cab liner.

I Taped out my Heki Skylight (400mm x 700mm), the roof has more of a internal concave than i thought, it's over 7mm with a straightedge.

I can contour the internal surface as i have to build/pack out the roof for the internal mount.

But the 7mm Convex on the roof, might cause a issue, maybe a whole tube of Sikaflex will fix it

Ill look at it again next week after to do the wheel arches

[Sunny43.5]

As someone who has fitted out many vans over the years I take my hat off to you , I presume the van is for your personal use or family member ? I know how awkward fitting the insulation can be my knees were screaming for some padding and my back well lets not bring that up either . Now as for the roof hatch you will find once you cut out the metal it will flatten out easily , those ribs on the outside will flex like hell I know I fitted a sunroof into the rear of mine plus I have one at the front as well but its a fully built in style titling and sliding internally . I also had to do massive modifications to the internal sunroof frame because of the ribs and then use packing blocks to fill the outside areas to match . A few tips I used some expanda foam in a few places where I was not able to get access to helps keep out external fumes etc . once I was ready to refit the trims I used metres of tape to seal over all the holes in the sides and also glued some thin strips of foam on the back of the trims to stop any rattles . Obviously you would only use the tape if you are gluing carpet over the trims , in the one on the site each side is done as a complete one piece as the hull liner stretches easily into all the shapes including the wheel arches . I will admit I am not a fan of the dynamat sort of product I have seen too many examples of it falling off especially on the outer surfaces and roofs I used a wool blend underlay glued with a spray glue to all surfaces . Hope to see more photos as you progress , what sort of lift are you fitting ? we have a fold out ramp for our daughters wheel chair makes life so simple .

[Bryn23]

Hey Sunny, i had a AMF Braun slide loader lift installed, its been installed for about two weeks or three now, happy with it so far, its been used about 130 times so far during this build.

With the new disabled parking code, the blocked off space between the disability bays allow the side lift to be used.

I do have to take it back, so some electrical issues can be sorted, the lift relay is blowing fuses, but at least i can reach and replace it inside the cab.

The van is for me, i've always wanted to rebuild a kombi since i was in my teens, (90's) but as i needed something semi reliable, and old kombi wasn't the answer and I've got the skills from when i did my trade in cabinetmaking, we did caravans, horse floats as well as the normal kitchens, vanity and shopfitting.

After my accident, which left me a paraplegic, i studied residential drafting and fine furniture design, i have to admit, manual work is a lot harder once you are in a chair, i studied fine furniture as a para making furniture. i already had the skills, it was just learning how to adjust as you can't get into the best positions, and also moving material around.

Its possible, it just takes 4 times as long and a lot of frustration...

With the VW T6 midroof it is a plastic/fibreglass composite roof, the VW bodybuilder guide, claims its is plastic, even the supporting roof ribs bar one are composite material, when i was looking for skylights, i ended up getting a smaller size unit (400mm width) from Germany, so it would fit in between the ribs, so no ribs would have to cut.

Im going to have to look at packing out the outside of the roof as well, the more i think about it, as it has two raise ribs, I've been sketching all night to come up with a solution.

I'll look at maybe making up up a marine plywood mount to allow a flat surface, while the bottom of plywood follows the roof contours the top will be flat and true, i'll wrap it in an expoy fibreglass, paint it then sikaflex it to the roof and then sikaflex the skylight to the expoy wrapped mount and then join it with the bottom internal member for compression.

I can do this from making a profile from inside the van, its just going to take a little more time to mould, in theory it should work, ill have to make a template to to confirm.

But, i've got a time up my sleeve, as i can't line the interior until my side windows show up and installed, which aren't due to due for another 6 weeks to as there are none in the country due to another order issue. (i did order them 4 months ago)

I'll be looking at using one piece to line the inside (this will be interesting for me, but i have read both our your interior fit out and that was quite helpful), and as i have full height panels, i don't need to tape all the holes, ill have an opening in the full height panel behind the drivers side, with a concealed curtain.

I'll be installing hidden clips on the panels, which will be bonded together with a 4mm closed foam reflective insulation and then hull lining over the top and wrapped around the edges.

It hides the slight profile of the hidden clips and also gives a slight padded feeling when touched. (I've used foam before on bedheads that have a fabric inlay and its worked well, and as the head will be close to the tailgate and rear side panel it makes sense to reduce head injury by a little padding)

i'll be doing the same to the roof panel, my wife is a little clumsy, she has already hit her head on the roof ribs a few times, although i find it funny, ill just pad it a little so she doesn't hurt herself.

I personally haven't had an issue with dynamat, "yet", i've installed in quite a few of my cars, the most extreme situation was the cowling on my Can Am Commander to reduce the heat and noise, this dynamat was installed vertically over the engine and never let go under heat cold, water or mud.

It has to be prepared right, a lot of people don't property clean the surface, or roll it to ensure a strong bond.. hopefully i have no issues this time, as it is a newer product i have used, time will tell.

[Sunny43.5]

I didn,t realise it was a mid roof so my comments wouldn't be applicable , what windows are you sourcing as I have got all my last three vans windows from Kingsley Enterprises or their agents in Brisbane Auto Extras Home - Auto Extras
I fitted the fixed ones only but Soooooooooooo much cheaper than the VW ones I got all four for our last van for around $900 while VW wanted nearly $700 EACH for the same thing except the VW logo and price tag . You are probably right about pre prep for the dynamat , in my work I have seen even the factory fitted stuff fall off after only 18 months or so , I do sunroof repairs and we often find the insulation fitted at factory has fallen off and jams the sunroof from sliding internally . The Brauns are a good lift system as my old business back 17 years ago we used to fit several brands for the Maxi taxis and private customers , maybe you could fit a circuit breaker to save having to keep replacing fuses just hit the button if it trips . I never bothered with a lift on any of our vans as the Prarie View Industries folding ramps were cheaper and less trouble , easy fit with just a couple of bolts and no wiring or hydraulics like some to mess up the floor inside . As both our kids were in wheelchairs it was easy to roll them in through the rear door as we fitted Power Packs to both chairs , so a standard wheelchair can have the clip on off Power pack attached for those days where we may encounter hills etc . The van I did for a guy in Gladstone I made up ply over the original trims to giver a smooth one piece look to the inside they were screwed onto the body with self tappers countersunk screws to give a total flat finish . Keep the photos coming looks good so far .

[Bryn23]

Ive used Auto Extras before for hand controls on my cars, and they are just a few km aways, so I've used them a bit

I was originally looking at the Kingsley windows, as your right about the cost of VW windows!!!

But i came across these windows last years with a low profile bonded crimsafe mesh on the windows, perfect for a camper setup, so I'm holding out for those, as my wife wants them due to the extra security deterrent.