Wasserboxer head stud

[Tombay58]

Hi all, I've just bought an 85 transporter with a snapped head stud. I have rebuilt type 1, 2 and 3 engines in the past but can't seem to find a lot if info on the water boxer, particularly re preventing the problem from happening again, any advise or source for advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Tom

[4wheels]

You wont see much info on T3's on here, but I used to have two, an '86 2wd and a 90 syncro. You need to check whether you have the 1.9L (likely in an '85) or the more common 2.1L.
For the 2.1 at least, there are improved studs available which are less likely to corrode (although correct coolant is still imperative).
The problem in the waterboxer engines is removing the old stud. They often break off short and can be impossible to remove. You may need a technique called spark erosion (sort of reverse welding) that comes from the aircraft industry. When I last had an engine done it was hard to find some-one to do it. You need a full pull down for that, and you might as well replace all the studs.
In Geelong, I'd suggest you talk to Gary Collis (? Wolfsburg), but the guy with the top reputation, who did mine, and organised the stud removal, was Lloyd Davies at Volkewerke in Greensborough.

Brian Reed
2007 Trakkadu.

[280creatrix]

Engines with a GW code are 1.9L, engines with a DJcode are 2.1L.
Dunno if that will help with anything. I'm in the process of putting an '85 t3 on the road, am having similar problems finding info on them, and having to source a lot of parts from the UK. I'm in Melbourne, i have a couple of decent contact numbers for vw guys who are always up for a chat and giving out some of their experience and knowledge. Happy to pass them on if you like. Would be stoked if you knew any Australian places to source parts. Good luck, happy driving