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Thread: T5 Tyres 17" what is available in OZ

  1. #161
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    Quote Originally Posted by brad View Post
    How far "wrong"are the speedos on these vans?

    On the Skoda I went from 205/55r16 to 225/55r16 & it made the speedo near perfect. It now reads 3kmh under at 100kmh - was 9kmh under before.

    I find having an accurate speedo safer (from speed cameras, etc) than having one that is 10% "wrong". Accurate speedo also means more accurate distance between services & more accurate fuel usage calculation.
    Not by much, mine reads 110km/ and the GPS says 103km/h. At 60km you have only 3km/h safety buffer, means you're driving at 57km/h. I prefer the factory in built error rather than paying the fines.

  2. #162
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    Quote Originally Posted by Transporter View Post
    Not by much, mine reads 110km/ and the GPS says 103km/h. At 60km you have only 3km/h safety buffer, means you're driving at 57km/h. I prefer the factory in built error rather than paying the fines.
    3 fines spread over 35 years. Not once would a speedo "buffer"have helped as I wasn't looking at the speedo. NSW gets an unofficial 10% buffer. I tend to drive right on or just under the limit these days as Sydney traffic is so congested. The vehicle is torquey enough that you don't need to speed. It drives me somewhat insane when I am driving along the 110kmh motorway with the cruise on 108kmh (105kmh GPS) and as you pass the parked police car (I pass 4 per day - every work day) the vehicle in front brakes (I'm assuming because their "safe" speedo is reading 115kmh).

    I think we've had this conversation before but for me it's like setting your watch 10 minutes fast so you won't be late - who are you actually trying to fool if you know your watch is fast? Your wife & kids?
    carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic
    I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums

  3. #163
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    So I've just had my new AP1 Maxxis fitted: 235/55/17 103V Sidewall states load capacity/rating 875kg at max press 50psi cold.
    A tad over $1k for four. Interesting they are labelled as "M+S" (mud and snow? or am I missing something here...)
    The old (original fitment) Dunlop SP's managed 45k with rotation, including spare, at about 30k. Least worn Dunlop has gone to the spare.
    Initial impressions - the Maxxis are somewhat softer (less "bump-thump"). That's with the placarded un/light loaded pressures of 44 front, 38 rear.
    Took the opportunity to have the brake pads checked at the same time - good for another 20k at least.
    Last edited by greymad; 07-01-2014 at 04:34 PM.
    2011 T5 132kw 7spdDSG 4motion, '89 Citroen 2CV, 2006 Subaru Forester SG 5spd

  4. #164
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    Quote Originally Posted by greymad View Post
    Interesting they are labelled as "M+S" (mud and snow? or am I missing something here...)
    The M+S mark signifies they are all-season tyres and indicates they are suitable for light snowfall (as well as rain and shine). Compared to summer tyres, they generally tend to wear less quickly and are softer in their response to vehicle inputs, as well as road surface imperfections. All-season tyres hold the biggest share in the North American market, due to its varied and diverse climate.

    Summer tyres (i.e. what most of us just refer to as regular tyres) gradually start to lose their performance when the temperature falls below +7°C, as the tread compound begins to harden - and at very low temperatures, it even becomes brittle. Most tread patterns are also unsuitable for dealing with snow.

    Winter tyres (also marked M+S, but feature a snowflake-in-a-mountain symbol to signify its cold-weather capabilities) are better suited to more consistent and/or heavier snowfall, but are too compromised in warm and dry conditions. Commonly used in continental Europe and other regions around the world which experience alpine conditions.

    For obvious reasons, all-season (M+S) and winter tyres hold little market share in Australia.

  5. #165
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    "they generally tend to wear less quickly and are softer in their response to vehicle inputs, as well as road surface imperfections."

    Thanks for that info - those would seem to be the exact qualities I was looking for after enduring the "crash-bang-thump" Dunlop SP's.
    2011 T5 132kw 7spdDSG 4motion, '89 Citroen 2CV, 2006 Subaru Forester SG 5spd

  6. #166
    IN2VWS Guest
    "but are too compromised in warm and dry conditions"

    We are in a warm country, so wouldn't the above comment mean they will deteriorate quicker in our climate?

  7. #167
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    Quote Originally Posted by IN2VWS View Post
    "but are too compromised in warm and dry conditions"

    We are in a warm country, so wouldn't the above comment mean they will deteriorate quicker in our climate?
    Yes. In the same way that summer tyres start to lose performance as the ambient temperature falls below +7°C, winter tyres do likewise as the ambient temperature rises above +7°C, which is why owners revert to their set of summer tyres (and wheels) during the warmer months.

  8. #168
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    Quote Originally Posted by IN2VWS View Post
    "but are too compromised in warm and dry conditions"

    We are in a warm country, so wouldn't the above comment mean they will deteriorate quicker in our climate?
    I'll give you a status report at 45,000kms.
    2011 T5 132kw 7spdDSG 4motion, '89 Citroen 2CV, 2006 Subaru Forester SG 5spd

  9. #169
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    Broadly speaking, an all-season tyre generally tends to wear at a slower rate than a summer tyre in the same performance category.

  10. #170
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    Sep 2009
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    Brisneyland, Queensland.
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    I've just ordered a set of the Maxxis Ma-P1's from my local Nitrocrew here in Wynnum, balanced and fitted for $239 each. I did see some very cheap options on ebay .... $85!!!! Maxtrek 235 55R17 103W Maximus M1 235 55 17 Inch Tyre 2355517 Premium | eBay

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