T5 Passenger Door deadlock release

[Kiels3927]

As some of you are aware, I'm working my way through a recalcitrant deadlock on the passenger door of my 2007 Multivan.

I'm comfortable now that I understand how the little bugger works, except for the pair of wires that leave the case with the drive that locks & unlocks the interrupt to the two door handles. Does it carry out another locking function that's hidden in the guts of the metal lock case - it can't be just for decoration.

In any case I have two plans for dealing with the autolock failure:

(1) Clean up the lock & relube it as Sunny did and test it before mounting using the emergency lock function on the driver door sill, or if that fails

(2) Store the worm drive mechanism for future consideration, lengthen the door lock telltale that pokes up through the door sill and lock and unlock the bugger manually using the tell tale button to actuate & deactivate the lock unterrupt wedge.

What thinks you?

(I'm over this problem big time)

[Umai Naa!!]

If you press the lock button on the key fob a second time, it'll deadlock the doors. Which means it won't open at all unless you unlock them again with the remote.

[Sunny43.5]

Which wires are you referring to The Red Blue ? which are the power for the locking motor which in turn go to the plug which operates the whole thing from the BCM . Any other wires would be for the interior lights . What are you stuck on at the moment maybe a second set of eyes in person may help as I only did two of them a week or so back so I should remember how it works , I only live down at Cornubia near the Hyperdome . Now once I had ours apart I sprayed the beejeezus out of the motor with CRC and then sprayed it with special door lock lubricant . I also sprayed all the moving parts with CRC so as to remove any gunk that may have been slowing down the movement , and again after cleaning I also used some spray on white lithium grease to ensure a good coating . Before remounting you can plug it in and run it to ensure all is well . The only part is the guide in the track part , when I did the drivers side I must have fluked it as it worked first time . The passengers side I thought I had it right but realised it was not going up and down the correct amount of travel so I split it again a placed the guide on the opposite track of the green part and that was it perfect again . I found I had to wind the geared part to its full extension and then reassemble as it gives you amore accurate position to work with . Oh don't forget when you test it make sure you close the latching part so it can lock and unlock correctly as it wont work if the latch is in the open position .

[Kiels3927]

Thanks, gentlemen, but I Googled a bit since my posting & the bit I was confused about is the wires that go to the microswitch that detects whether the door is open or closed. There's no lock function in the metal body other than the wedge that restricts the movement of the door handles, etc.

That being the case, I'm good to go. I'll clean & lube, reassemble & test and go the manual route if it fails.

I'll leave the green piece in the left (straight) track where it ws when I disassembled it & let it worry about how it finctions.