T5.1 Brake Rotor and Pad Replacement

[brad]

a) The front pins come out completly so I did clean them down and re-grease using a high temp bearing grease. This is what a guy in AutoBarn provided when I explained what I was doing, although I'm now reading this might have been a poor choice and something which should be fixed up before it causes binding. Is this something I should go back and re-do. If so what is the recommended grease and where do I get it?


b) The rear meachnism came apart without (from what I could see) breaking any the rubber seals so I didn't tear them apart to re-grease. Is this something I should go back and do?

High temp bearing grease is fine. Just leave it.

You should be able to do the rears without major disassembly.

Yes, you need to lever it a bit to compress the piston. When doing this, remove the cap off the master cylinder first and syringe out half the brake fluid. rest the cap lightly on the reservoir when compressing the piston.

[The_Hawk]

High temp bearing grease is fine. Just leave it.

You should be able to do the rears without major disassembly.

Yes, you need to lever it a bit to compress the piston. When doing this, remove the cap off the master cylinder first and syringe out half the brake fluid. rest the cap lightly on the reservoir when compressing the piston.

I took the cap completely off the container but didn't take any fluid out when I did them all and didn't have any issues with overflow, although I did go and check what it was doing after each wheel.

As for the front calipers, they don't have very much on them anyway so deteriation isn't the concern, I was more worried that the bearing grease would cause binding. If that's not likely to be a problem then I'm happy. I didn't do anything to the rears as everything appeared to remain sealed when I took the caliper off so it's as it was before I started so nothing to replace.



If I was to go back and swap out the grease one suggestion I was given was to remove those front pins one at a time which will should mean I don't have to pull everything apart and can do the fix while it's all in place which doesn't feel like it would take a lot of time or effort at all with a rattle gun and floor jack (Famous last words I'm sure ). Assuming I have a little time to kill I might just do that for my own piece of mind.

This is one of the recommended greases that I can find locally:
Bendix Ceramic Lubricant 10 pack - BENDIX | Repco Australia

[brad]

I took the cap completely off the container but didn't take any fluid out when I did them all and didn't have any issues with overflow, although I did go and check what it was doing after each wheel.

As for the front calipers, they don't have very much on them anyway so deteriation isn't the concern, I was more worried that the bearing grease would cause binding. If that's not likely to be a problem then I'm happy. I didn't do anything to the rears as everything appeared to remain sealed when I took the caliper off so it's as it was before I started so nothing to replace.

If I was to go back and swap out the grease one suggestion I was given was to remove those front pins one at a time which will should mean I don't have to pull everything apart and can do the fix while it's all in place which doesn't feel like it would take a lot of time or effort at all with a rattle gun and floor jack (Famous last words I'm sure ). Assuming I have a little time to kill I might just do that for my own piece of mind.

This is one of the recommended greases that I can find locally:
Bendix Ceramic Lubricant 10 pack - BENDIX | Repco Australia

When I was doing brakes we only had HTB. I never noticed any issues. Just leave the front as is.

As long as the rear pins slide freely they should be OK. It takes a long time for the lubricant to go off.

Brake fluid removal is because I've been caught too many times. If the fluid hasn't been topped up recently it shouldn't overflow.

[Transporter]

The wrong grease will swell the rubber in the calliper slides, causing drag and the pads will wear faster, probably also unevenly.

When topping the brake fluid reservoir, don’t overfill since the reservoir is tilted downwards and the excess of b.fluid will leak on the top of the engine, especially if your driveway is not level.

[Sunny43.5]

Good write up I think I will invest in one of those piston compressing gadgets, looks like a time and swear saver for sure ! Gotta love a man who isn,t afraid to get dirty in his work , and yes summer time is not the best for tackling a tricky first time job . After having done about 5 sets of rotor and pad jobs on our various vans it gets easier each time . Thankfully brakes don,t need doing too often .

[fransnz]

I've just check and looks like I may need to replace mine too.

What is the MIN on the front and rear discs?
Could you guys suggest rotors and pads with great stopping power and less dust?

Thank you

[Sunny43.5]

Ring this place they are great .Australia's Experts in Automotive Braking Components!

[The_Hawk]

Ring this place they are great .Australia's Experts in Automotive Braking Components!

Yep, that's who I used:

Here are the links to all the parts I used:

Rotors front - DBA2242 DBA Street Series Standard Brake Rotor
Rotors rear - DBA2247 DBA Street Series Standard Brake Rotor

Pads front - DB1947HPX | QFM HPX Brake Pads
Pads rear - DB1956HPX | QFM HPX Brake Pads

[Markee]

I went with the following on the rear of my T5 LWB 4Mo from Brakes Direct.

DBA2247E | DBA Street Series Standard Brake Rotor	POS-132563	2	AU$139.94
0897.11 | Remsa Brake Pads (DB1956)	POS-124621	1	AU$58.97

[LogicprObe]

As I posted in another braking thread, I once went for the drilled and slotted DBAs but they warped pretty quick and replaced them under warranty for the standard solid vented type.
No probs with them. (front)