T5.1 Brake Rotor and Pad Replacement

[Transporter]

You have to remove the cap from brake fluid reservoir to prevent the reservoir from popping out of the master cylinder or busting the seal in between and not to allow air from the fluid to escape. When you push the piston back in callipers the bubbles (trapped air) will not escape through the reservoir.
Definitely not these bubbles that are in the callipers.

The manuals are written for mechanics not for diy, that’s why they’re not as detailed as you would like it to be. It would be very frustrating, if they would write every detail or movement of the hand how to do this and that.

As for the YouTube diy videos, they usually come from places that are selling something and don’t have to be mechanics, hence some details aren’t there because their luck of knowledge and experience, like remove the reservoir cap, importance to use the right grease and where to apply it.

[Sunny43.5]

Good point Transporter , yes you have to hold your mouth right or contort yourself to get to some things . I think those of us who have survived from the early days achieve skills that the young ones of today could not handle .

[LogicprObe]

The high temp grease in the sliders will be OK until next time.
Don't waste your time pulling it apart again.
The worst that can happen is that it deteriorates the rubber dust covers.
(takes a long time)
It's the only reason you are supposed to use 'rubber grease'.

[Transporter]

The wrong grease will swell the rubber in the calliper slides, causing drag and the pads will wear faster, probably also unevenly.

When topping the brake fluid reservoir, don’t overfill since the reservoir is tilted downwards and the excess of b.fluid will leak on the top of the engine, especially if your driveway is not level.

[Sunny43.5]

Good write up I think I will invest in one of those piston compressing gadgets, looks like a time and swear saver for sure ! Gotta love a man who isn,t afraid to get dirty in his work , and yes summer time is not the best for tackling a tricky first time job . After having done about 5 sets of rotor and pad jobs on our various vans it gets easier each time . Thankfully brakes don,t need doing too often .

[fransnz]

I've just check and looks like I may need to replace mine too.

What is the MIN on the front and rear discs?
Could you guys suggest rotors and pads with great stopping power and less dust?

Thank you

[Sunny43.5]

Ring this place they are great .Australia's Experts in Automotive Braking Components!

[The_Hawk]

Ring this place they are great .Australia's Experts in Automotive Braking Components!

Yep, that's who I used:

Here are the links to all the parts I used:

Rotors front - DBA2242 DBA Street Series Standard Brake Rotor
Rotors rear - DBA2247 DBA Street Series Standard Brake Rotor

Pads front - DB1947HPX | QFM HPX Brake Pads
Pads rear - DB1956HPX | QFM HPX Brake Pads

[Markee]

I went with the following on the rear of my T5 LWB 4Mo from Brakes Direct.

DBA2247E | DBA Street Series Standard Brake Rotor	POS-132563	2	AU$139.94
0897.11 | Remsa Brake Pads (DB1956)	POS-124621	1	AU$58.97

[LogicprObe]

As I posted in another braking thread, I once went for the drilled and slotted DBAs but they warped pretty quick and replaced them under warranty for the standard solid vented type.
No probs with them. (front)