T4 stalling every 1000k HELP!

[d4don]

Thankyou in advance for any help. My '01 t4 petrol 2.5 transporter has this odd fault. It will stall briefly under power at any speed, then run ok, then if stopped at lights will idle ok but stall again under power while trying to take off. This will happen a couple of times then run fine for another 800/1000 klm...and then does it again! The problem is always only under power.

What's going on 'ere!!? Have searched threads but haven't been able to pin it down.

Any ideas?? Thankyou...my Preggio driving mate is laughing at me!!

[vwguru]

well, dose this model have the map sensor just after the air filter? if not there should be a vac line running to the ECU, check or replace this hose, but also there is a pice of hose in the ECU housing, these hoses may not be split but may be a bit blocked? also check the throttle body for carbon ect. Any fault codes would also be helpfull.

Any other ideas anyone?????????????

[d4don]

well, dose this model have the map sensor just after the air filter? if not there should be a vac line running to the ECU, check or replace this hose, but also there is a pice of hose in the ECU housing, these hoses may not be split but may be a bit blocked? also check the throttle body for carbon ect. Any fault codes would also be helpfull.

Any other ideas anyone?????????????

hate to seem like an idiot but what does a map sensor look like and where do i find fault codes....and i know what an ECU does but have no idea where it is. I will check these when i find them.

thankyou guru...i really appreciate your help.

[Tombi]

Sounds like a sensor/failsafe issue.

[Silver Caravelle]

Hi there,

Your model has the MAP/MAF sensor (after the aircleaner). It has a metal strip (not heated wire) as the sensor inside the MAP/MAF sensor housing. They tend not affect running to the extent that you describe as it reverts to a defaut value if it is not working properly and should be still be ok under power. You can disconnect the lead to it to check.

I would also suggest checking the coil, as a faulty coil can break down when reaching normal engine temperature. Also check plugs and leads, rotor and distributor cap.

Also doubly check for major vaccum leaks on the inlet side, such as the inlet hose past the MAP sensor, and there is a vacuum hose that comes out of the inlet hose. Also check the brake master cylinder vaccum hose for leaks.

Fuel pump on the way out/ fuel filter partially blocked?

Does it do it when the fuel tank is near empty?

Actual distributor fault?

Check all ECU connections - including earth leads to the body of the vehicle.

Just a few thoughts. It would be worth plugging it into a fault code reader to check for fault codes.

Regards,

Scott

[d4don]

Thanks for the replies. I replaced the dis cap and rotor before the last episode. Just keep looking i guess.