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Thanks for all the suggestions - update on removal - Note to self .... perhaps the easiest way of removing the gearbox is with the engine attached !!!! Ive found that the driverside drive shaft housing snags on its support bracket on the back of the engine - best to undo the 2 lower bolts and tap the bracket up out of the way - remove the passenger side gearbox/diff mounting bracket as it stops the gearbox rotating. Remove the gearbox/engine mount it gives you more room to move. Oh and I finally got the obscure hex drive out of the engine side of the bell housing - its hidden behind the diff and not easy to get to !!!! The manual didn't mention this one I found it on the gearbox parts diagram and then spending 4 hours trying to get to it before working out it was a hex drive then it look a few minutes to undo !!!!
Its a very snug fit and unless all the 'stars' line up its a very frustrating shuffle.
Not looking forward to getting the box back in !
I'm going to replace the clutch regardless of its condition after going to the trouble of removing the gearbox I don't want to do it again in a hurry !
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Well done. Did you think to take any photos while dismantling? Your experience may help some of us in the future.
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Sorry no photo's but a few tips - if its your first T4 gearbox removal set aside a few days !
Not so obvious things to remove - left side engine mount , big round differential mount to crossmember, lower portion of the exhaust before the the catalytic converter and the well hidden torqex screw on the back of the clutch bell housing !!!!
Also remove the bolts from the 'intermediate' mounting bracket (the bit the driverside cv joint bolts onto ) AND loosen the mounting bracket it attaches too - take out the 2 lower bolts and gently tap the bracket towards the gearbox and it should swing out the way (I couldn't get to the top mounting bolt easily so this worked for me)
Perhaps the most important is undo the driver side engine mount with a jack in place under the sump this allows the entire engine to drop down and then the DIFF HOUSING can clear the crossmember - if you don't do this you will spend at least a day trying to work out how to rotate the gearbox clockwise trying to clear the sump housing and my experience says it can't clear it !!! REMEMBER that if you drop the engine you will stress any thing thats attached to the firewall so be very careful !
The engine moves forward about 50 mm and down around 40 mm this should allow the gearbox to clear all the snags ! Seems that a downward angle helps the gearbox slip out that and the rotation of the gear box clockwise by about 40mm !
I'm a little worried that it will be a utter nightmare to get back in so will update it once that happens !
Today its clean up the gearbox and remove the flywheel that needs honing - next week its all back together !
Interesting what you see when you stare at the engine long enough ! I've a couple of little jobs on the list to replace some worn pipework thats been rubbing for 290000km.
Would I do it again ...
Next time is out with the engine and gearbox - I didn't want to de gas the aircon so I though I would give it a crack but the amount of time it took would make me think twice next time. Having said that perhaps it would have been a lot quicker if I had done one before !
difficulty level - bit of a slog but its all about technique and process nothing to technical!
Of course up on a hoist would be so much easier and quicker!
Oh did I mention the couch was totally stuffed - so much so that the clutch plate was free in the pressure plate and didn't have any friction left at all - just enough to clear the rivets !
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[QUOTE=T4 hobart VW;1295041
Oh did I mention the couch was totally stuffed [/QUOTE]
When I first read this, I was thinking it must have been a very tiring job that you needed to lay down all the time.
I would say the previous owner/s got their moneys worth out of that clutch.
Please post back on how this all unfolds.
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Jets - it was a typo - a rather good one at that ! I did give the couch a bit of grief doing research on the T4 2.5l petrol engine before I tackled the job.
Perhaps I should also give you some credit because when I read your footer on your posts it gave me the idea that perhaps before rushing in like a dog after a cat I'd do the research first !
"Understand how it works, troubleshoot logically BEFORE replacing parts."
Its so true and I think it probably save me some money as well !
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3 Attachment(s)
Just a quick update - flywheel back from the machinists no fuss same day turnaround - $60 - Now fitted with new bolts ($72)
New clutch now on the beast $290 - ready for the boxing match tomorrow - gear boxing that is.
only issue is a small amount of wear on the thrust release bearing arm - the three pics show the piece of metal that clips over the arm and the thrust bearing clips onto each side and the bearing pivots on the bit of metal. Its a bit worn but doesn't seem to stop the bearing changing angle as the clutch is pressed.
Would like to change them out (2 - one each side) but can't find them listed as a part.
The are hardened spring steel by the look but couldn't cost much ...
Does anyone know if they are available or maybe this is a standard 'bit' that any clutch place would have ?
?Attachment 45499
Attachment 45500
Attachment 45498
New lower ball joints ready to go on but mate suggested that I refit the old one first and drive it to see if the cv's are ok then put the new ones on if the cv's are ok else swap out the cv's and add the new ball joins at that time !
Busy day tomorrow !
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That arm looks OK to me.
It's the bearing itself that failed on mine!
What brand did they give you in the kit?
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Its an ACS bearing - hope its ok ! If I get 50000km out of it I'll be happy !
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once you get it running, might pay to atleast check and replace if neccessary, the 3 way plastic junction between the bottom radiator hose and the block. Son's T4 2.5 went from running perfectly to total destruction when it cracked and dumped all it's water in seconds.
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Interesting you should mention that - I notices a small weep from the block end of the t junction and was going to pull it out and renew the O ring - think its been an issue for a while but moving the engine may have made it leek more.
Didn't manage to get the gearbox back in yet - it sure is a jigsaw ! I read heaps of posts and think that I have to move the engine forward a bit to clear the sub frame - thought I had enough room from when I got it out but I've seen several UK posts saying that a 14 inch block between the sub frame and the sump gives enough room for the gearbox to clear the subframe!
I undid the other engine mount to get the box out but now I'm not too keen to wrestle the box back in with the engine floating so I'm going to connect the engine mount and then crank the engine forward with a ratchet strap ! All this on a couple of trolly jacks should roll forward but stay held in situ by the engine mount !
All this without stressing any of the bits attached to the engine !
fingers crossed !
