T4 Clutch bleeding

[Wino]

hmmm,
the clutch master needs to be replaced (dam pedal box cracked and it flogged out the master cyl
Anyway, can anyone shed some light on how difficult it is to bleed the clutch?


cheers

Wino

[jets]

Fairly straightforward really. There are two bleed points, one coming out the front of the trans casing & the other in a T piece just above the coolant bottle. Both bleed screws are 11mm AF, but because the lower one is recessed in the casing you will need a deep offset ring or tube spanner.The bore dia of drain hose you need is 6mm.
The clutch uses the same reservoir as the brakes.
Tightening torque for bleed screws is 20Nm.

[Wino]

Jets, great info, thanks mate

Cheers

Wino

[Wino]

I might need some more advice..

The install of the new master cyl seemed to go off without a hitch, and I made some effort to fully prime the new MC before I conected the slave line.
OK, all good so far, I give the clutch a few pumps and to my surprise the clutch seems fine!
I think to myself "it just can't be this easy" (and look over my shoulder nevously) but I take it for a very short drive and all seems fine.
I assume that too much air in the system would be apparent as soon as you try to engage the clutch/change gears???

[jets]

Are you saying you didn't need to bleed the system?
A small amount of air will still allow the system to work but you won't get full travel out of the slave cyl. I would still go ahead & bleed the system & watch for any air bubbles. At the very least you are changing the fluid which should be done every couple of years.