T4 Auto Problems

[ROVA]

I know I know, everyone reckons these things are weak and uber expensive to repair/replace. Oh well, what are you going to do?

Here's the problem; '97 5cyl Auto 170k kms. Trakka camper since new and AFAIK not used for towing. Starts and runs fine in neutral but when cold, as soon as I put it in gear, it shudders and stalls. Doesn't stall when it's warm and runs OK although it still doesn't feel quite right and seems to shift harshly.

It seems like it's not compensating for the extra load when put in gear. I heard there's a solenoid that engages to compensate for this. Possibly faulty?

Any help greatly appreciated.

[Transporter]

It sounds expensive, mate.
You can find a bit about T4 transmission in this thread.
http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/newf...23&postcount=2

[vannin]

I am too trying to find info about these. There is some good reading in ther links in the threa I started.
The auto shop that looked at mine says its fine but the vw mechanic says they are the biggest pile of poo ever built and to get rid of it.
Now not douting his knowledge as he seemed to know alot but he gave me the impression that the t4 auto was a non servicable item once its broke just replace it ($6000).
Surely there must be parts available to fix it, but I havnt found out exactley what breaks just that they "break"
Nik

[Jmac]

They can be fixed mate, the gear is dear to do so, actually comes in a kit form for the repairer. The kit has reamers etc to redo the sleeves for the valve body, main thing that goes is pressure loss with weak spots in the valve body, ive heard of a few successful repairs.
Cheers
Jmac

[vannin]

Thanks I thought it didnt sound right that they "break" then you install a brand new auto!
Nik

[Umai Naa!!]

Ring a couple of larger transmission joints. I've heard a few do exchange units, which would be a damn sight cheaper option.

But yeah, they're not the most reliable transmission around, that's for sure.

[David Morris]

Ok my Ex ambo 2003 T4 low milage 70k has auto problems I have done every thing I could in a DIY way to overcome it the converter lock up clutch is trying to lock up @ 60kph cant do the job so when you give it a little more power the dreded SHUDDERS happen I ether jam the foot down into kick down or just hand shift it to 3 rd or lower if i am in traffic that fixes the problem for the minute.
But now I have bitten the bullit & its geting the valve body done a new oil cooler external one fitted this time with more oil in the system as I tow things & need to as the engine runs around 90c + that cant cool the trany enough in my book when we are putting engine heat into the transmition oil dumb Idea VW .
Even the power steering has an oil cooler on T4s heat is the enemy here .
I am waiting the call to say its finished & the cost then I will tell all here & name names so watch this space .
Ok job done $1485.00 valve body machined & kit fitted old oil cooler /heater replaced with a large external cooler that has 3.6 mtrs of tubeing in its coils First test with lazer thermo shows it takes 15c out of the oil temp after a short 20k run inlet temp was 55c water temp is down by 2.c also lock up is a little graby but it needs a few hundred k to deglaze the lock up clutch facings the man told me put a additive in the oil to help this process .
will have 1000k trip over week end to sort it out .
Working out a cooler that will fit under the back of the alloy bullbar skirt & try to use the bullbar mass as a heat sink if I can ,may get 4 Mt of tubing or larger dia tube to slow flow should add more volume of oil to if i can mount it there out of sight.
TC

[vannin]

Keep us updated, and it would be nice to know if they can be improved to lessen the chance of it failing.
Mine runs an external cooler and I try to take it easy but lately it dosnt seem right.
Dont know if its related but the mechanic was trying to see if my cat converter was any good and gave it a few good wacks with a mallet. So now somtimes my bus gets moving with minimal pedal and somtimes it feels like its struggling and the auto shifts funny so Im wondering if the cat has colapsed could it contribute to the auto shifting funny as the engine cant breath properly?
If that sounds dumb feel free to laugh I have bugger all experience with autos and even less with computer controled crap!
Nik

[David Morris]

I got rid of the rear silencer early in the life of my T4 that made a difference not noisy at all the next silencer may also go soon to the way the turbo spun up still blows 12psi where the wastegate opens .
I always run the engine oil just below the full mark as oil kills the cat & starts the blocking up process tha will kill the turbo .
Got me wondering why the turbo starts to pump when the engine is reved in neutral above 3.500 rpm it shows about 3 psi no load may be coming from exhaust restricions ?? still wondering about this .
TC

was gunna put a picture of the cooler here but cant do it but ??????

[daave]

Probably a long shot now , but where did you get this valve body job done David?
VW owes me a new van for the hours I've spent trying to solve this and other issues.
Dave