T4 2.5 TDI pump belt tensioner frustration...

[Pundit]

I have a some VW instructions for replacing the injector pump belt, idler and tensioner which states (referring to the tensioner)...

31. Ensure tab (B on diagram) engages in the cutout.

What cutout?

Where?

There is no cutout that I can see.

The cam belt tensioner is located by a pin but I can't see how the pump belt tensioner is located as there appears to be no cutout whatever that is?

[jets]

It has been several years since I did mine but I don't remember having any difficulty.
My instructions say "Install tensioning roller-1-so that the tensioning roller cap sits within the cut-outs on the console-arrow B"
My guess is you may be looking in the wrong place for the cutout. From the diag. it is on the LHS of tensioner around 9'oclock.
Let us know how you get on.

[Pundit]

Okay I found it about an hour before I read your reply (thanks anyway).
There is a small recess in the injector pump mounting bracket that locates the tag of the tensioner.
It's low down and very hard to see once the tensioner is bolted on.

I really need a factory workshop manual that shows this kind of detail.

This is worst belt replacement job I've done.
I must be getting old no as other vehicles I've worked on have been as fiddly as this thing!

The fact that nothing is keyed means you need to keep your wits about you.

The injection timing is still too advanced to be plotted using Vagcom.
The upside is it started okay.
It appears you can get about 5 degrees of adjustment by shifting the idler and then readjusting the tensioner.
The closest I can get is around 13 degrees BTDC so I'll need to loosen the I/P cam gear and retard the timing slightly.

[jets]

I'll need to loosen the I/P cam gear and retard the timing slightly.

To retard timing turn pulley clockwise.
Yes, you are right, definately a fiddly job.That's why it costs to have it done.
Even going back to the first VW diesel they didn't key the cam pulley. I used to own a Toyota Forerunner with the 2.8 3L engine. The cam pulley was keyed on that engine & it was a fair way out to go from one tooth to the next.
Did you need to use the crankshaft pulley puller in the end?
Well done for getting the job done. There is very few of us on the forum that have successfully changed the belts on the 2.5TDI.

[Pundit]

All done and back on the road!

Got the timing set between 55 > 58 (Vagcom) which is between spot on to slightly advanced.

I ended up making a camshaft counterhold tool out of two 750mm lengths of 25mm x 6mm steel bar using a two hex head bolts (16mm diameter head) bolted at one end of each bar and the other ends of the bars bolted together. The 16mm hex bolt heads fitted perfectly in the I/P cam pulley and allowed me to torque the pulley bolt to 160nm.

The tool isn't as flash as the genuine article but it cost me the grand total of $11.50 in bits. $7.50 for the steel bar (including cutting) and $4.00 for the bolts, nuts and washers.

I took it for a road test and drove it up to the local and bought myself a six pack of ice cold beers as reward.

I didn't use the crank gear puller after all.

I thought I might replace the crank seal but it was perfectly dry so I decided to leave well enough alone.

I replaced both camshaft seals as the rear one was leaking slightly.

I also had some wear on the camshaft eccentric that drives the vacuum pump pushrod.
That's what caused the biggest hold up.

I was initially thinking I would need to replace the camshaft and lifters which meant ordering them from overseas (forget buying these kind of parts locally unless you like being raped!) but in the end I had it re-ground for $33 dollars by Wade Camshafts over here in Oakleigh. They had a master to suit and took off 11 thou. There is enough preload on the vacuum pump pushrod to avoid any rattling and I checked the oil flow with the cam cover off before bolting it back on.

I'm about to give it an oil change using Penrite HPR5 (5w-40 Full Synthetic) and am contemplating fitting a centrifugal bypass filter.