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Thread: T4 2.5 cam belt - advice

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    vic
    Posts
    347
    Users Country Flag

    Waterpump is most likely a revised waterpump if the pulley is different! The old style water pumps are well known to fail and VW was generally very generous when it came to an engine failure due to the pump going to ****. I think they continued to pay for pump related faults till 2003 or so. I might be wrong on that but I think you just got a revised version as mentioned above....


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  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Vic
    Posts
    171
    Thread Starter
    Thanks. The impeller is slightly different, so I'll give it a go. I wondered if the diesel and petrol had different pumps and maybe I had a diesel on.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Vic
    Posts
    171
    Thread Starter
    I spent an uncomfortable hour last night looking for the TDC mark on the cam pulley. All the instructions said it is a line cut into the back of a pully tooth...could I find it - no! I even went so far as to clean the back of the pulley with acetone. Now all of the pully teeth are shiny and no marks. The belt cover also looks different to the manual...so am I missing something? Did Australia get some thing different or is the mark different?

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Mt Cotton
    Posts
    3,757
    Is it a line or a dot mark like made wiith a nail punch I have to admit that I cannot remember when I did my sons what was there but there was something as its still going 18 months later .

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Vic
    Posts
    171
    Thread Starter
    OK, head is now off and glad I did this. HG blown between 1-2 and 4-5. Bores are a bit glazed, but it is a bugger to get block out of a syncro apparently so not sure I have the energy for that.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Vic
    Posts
    171
    Thread Starter
    mark was on the back of the cam wheel, but it did not look like the manual/elsawin indicated. Now filled with white paint. Head was fine, valves fine and now reco'd and back on the block. VW do not stuff around with head bolts! Needed a breaker bar and extension to torque to yeild. Work is halting play, but will be back on the job in 2 weeks.
    Not sure I mentioned on this forum but head bolts from VW were $15.70 plus GST each and from Justkampers were $2.10 each. There is no way I could afford to buy VW branded bits on such a cheap vehicle.
    Are generic fluids available? power steering system needs a flush and new fluid, also oils for gearbox and rear diff.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Adelaide South Australia
    Posts
    1,299
    Quote Originally Posted by Racemag View Post
    Are generic fluids available? power steering system needs a flush and new fluid, also oils for gearbox and rear diff.
    When I changed my gearbox & rear diff oil it was a lot cheaper to buy genuine VW than Castrol when you compare like with like.
    Understand how it works, troubleshoot logically BEFORE replacing parts.
    2001 T4 TRAKKA Syncro 2.5TDI,2006 Mk5 2.0TDI Golf manual,2001 Polo 1.4 16V manual [now sold], '09 2.0CR TDI Tiguan manual,
    Numerous Mk1 Golf diesels

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Vic
    Posts
    171
    Thread Starter
    You know I've never found that to be the case with Barloworld VW just down the road from me. But I'll give them a call and check out their prices.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Adelaide South Australia
    Posts
    1,299
    I paid $17.50/litre back on 17/02/11. Castrol from memory was over $30/litre. VW Pt. no. is G060726A2.
    Understand how it works, troubleshoot logically BEFORE replacing parts.
    2001 T4 TRAKKA Syncro 2.5TDI,2006 Mk5 2.0TDI Golf manual,2001 Polo 1.4 16V manual [now sold], '09 2.0CR TDI Tiguan manual,
    Numerous Mk1 Golf diesels

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Vic
    Posts
    171
    Thread Starter

    Bloody heck. Followed Elsawin and put ex manifold on then intake and oh, what are these ten SS thick washers left over. So in short car seems to have had ten thick washers on ex manifold and Elsawin says just use nuts. So do I put the effort in and put them back on?

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