Shipping Rock n Roll Bed from UK?

[Gold Coaster]

At it will be a camper, I'm looking at the Rock n Roll at the present time

The ad on ebay states 'set up from bed to bench seat in seconds'?

[Bryn23]

The ad on ebay states 'set up from bed to bench seat in seconds'?

This would work, in a multivan, it looks like a copy of the Beach camper rear end extension... it quickly bolts to the floor rails and then you roll the mattress over it after you fold the middle seats

Not going to work in a empty panel van, plus I'm after a 3/4 width bed

either way, i't not going to work for me.

[Bryn23]

I spoke to JustKampers today, i was after a Fiamma Awning and i asked if they were going to bring anything to replace the UK made Rock n Roll beds that were discontinued.

They have designed one that meets ADR's and should have then by Xmas, i believe they are made overseas and will be width adjustable.

I don't know anymore than that, but awesome news for the guys that want to build their own campervan.

[Merrill Levi]

have you tried Kernow in the UK yet? they sell many seat combinations including 2 & 3 seater rock'n'roll - may be worth a call, the 2 seater rock'n'roll they have has seat belt fitted and to my eye look exactly like the seats fitted in Trakka conversions in Sydney.

[Bryn23]

have you tried Kernow in the UK yet? they sell many seat combinations including 2 & 3 seater rock'n'roll - may be worth a call, the 2 seater rock'n'roll they have has seat belt fitted and to my eye look exactly like the seats fitted in Trakka conversions in Sydney.

Thanks for the link Merrill,

Getting the Floor rail system installed here in Aus, seems like a huge problem in respect of getting it engineered right for seats, well thats according to a Camper fitout mob up here in Brisbane.

I'm waiting to see what the JustKampers Rock n Roll bed looks like and go from there, the other option is for the Reimo Family fun seat bed

I've decided, not to get the seats certified for travel and seat belts, as i'm going to make the rock n roll bed removable.

Ive got the Factory 12mm ply floor with eight tie downs into the chassis, so i was going to mark out the bed frame and install heavy duty Tee Nuts under the Ply Floor and bolt the bed down with high tensile bolts, as many as i can to reduce the load

When seat is out, i'll just put some low profile cup head bolts in to protect the threads

It shouldn't move, at all, And it won't be used as seating while the vehicle is underway.

I spoke to QLD transport today and as long as the seat isn't used underway then thats all they care about, suggested i attach a Seating Label next to rock n roll bed, that states seat is not to be used while vehicle underway.

[Sunny43.5]

You are right about labelling the seat for no highway use , the only issue you may need to be aware of is that tee nuts are not that good for strength . Even thought the seat is not going to be used while underway you do need to ensure it is secure to withstand any sudden deceleration forces if in an accident . I spent over 20 years building and fitting extra seats in vans and wagons 4wds etc and the test loads are extreme to say the least . In an accident scenario if the seat were by slim chance to come free and injure someone it could be an insurance nightmare .Tradies have cargo barriers just for that purpose as they need protection from goods in the rear . I could only suggest that if the seat is going to be in a fixed position each time its in the van or used for camping , maybe getting some metal plates with nuts welded to them would be the better option , these can then be fitted to the underside of the floor with rivets etc and be in place permanently .I did this on our latest van as we had two kids in wheelchairs and needed extra seating for the times the kids were not in the van . While doing the original fitout I placed the two bucket seats at the rear and plotted out the mounting holes in the floor , then I used reinforcing plates of appropriate sizes to secure the seat in place . Once I had the four done on each seat I removed the seat and then put the bolts back in with large washers on the top side , this then held the plates in place and then used 3.16th high strength rivets to secure the plates to the underside of the metal floor . Once this was done whenever we need the seats in place it was just a matter of bolting them in with an air ratchet it only takes a minute or two for each seat . Seat belts are permanently bolted to the rear pillars etc and the buckle part is on the side of the seat so it is all neatly contained and legal .

[Bryn23]

Good post Sunny,

Ideally i'd like to get away without drilling through the floor, but i may have to, depending on the frame and mounting points.

Your right about the load, if there was a accident. I do want to ensure that the bolts don't put through the ply flooring, i was looking a large Commercial T Nuts with a decent spread, not the small ones you buy at a hardware store.

I was also looking at making up a removable steel mounting frame that connects to the rear and middle tie down mounts on top of the ply floor, with mounting points onto that frame. it'll only lift the bed up another 20mm, but it gives me the chance to weld in nuts for the bed mounts, which would need better than T Nuts.

I do like your idea.. that would work if i drill through the floor

i'm now expecting the van to arrive in 6-8 weeks and our first trip isn't planned til mid year, so i have time to work it out, i'm not going to make a final decision until i get the bed and access the mounts

You might have some knowledge on the next item i'm looking at, as the mid roof VW T5/T6 is fibreglass with a steel framing bars, is it possible to cut one out and weld reinforcing bars between the two closest bars to allow for a bigger skylight/hatch 700mmx500 Seitz Midi Heki??

I recall a post that there were no standards for sunroofs...and it is in a cargo area

Rather have one off these instead of a smaller 400mmx400mm

[Sunny43.5]

With your roof I can only suggest that if you remove the cross brace for more room then as you said weld some forward and rearward braces so as to tie the two together that should compensate for the one you remove . Or remove the original and move it to a new point add some extra metal at each end and reweld to the sides .