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Thread: just bought T4 2.5TDi and have questions, new member as well

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
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    geelong victoria
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    just bought T4 2.5TDi and have questions, new member as well

    Hi. I have just bought a 2001 T4 and have a few questions. Firstly it has a tappet sounding noise when started and occasionly does it when hot,have tried pressing the brake pedal which I am told determines if it is a vacuum pump. Doesnt stop. Could it be a dodgey oil pump? Secondly has anyone put an aftermarket central locking kit on one of these? And I am also looking for a rear 3 seater seat. I have changed the oil and it is good to drive. Any information on how to keep this going well or any potential problems I may come across would be appreciated. Thanks, Rob.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    Mt Cotton
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    3,752
    Welcome to the Forum hope you enjoy your visits, I have experienced the clacking sound in my sons T4 and yes was the vacum pump in his case . I have found that tappet noise is either low oil level meaning it takes time for the oil to get right through the engine , or maybe a the oil pump as you suspect . I am sure some more experienced members will have some informative ideas so stay tuned . Next yes I have fitted central locking to 2 T4,s my original first now sadly departed {sob} T4 and more recently my sons T4 . I used the Vision products which has remote locking with immobilizer and a flashing LED . For the sliding door you will need to get the optional sliding door pins from Vision as well . The tailgate is a little tricky as it has its own key lock from outside you will need to disconnect the connector rod from the key lock so it will then work with all the other doors . Hope this helps Howard

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    with the dust and flies in western Victoria
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    784
    Tappety noise is not uncommon. Mostly when a bit cold. In my experience, it can also be related to the timing belt getting on (or going out) a bit. A recent belt change saw my engine change note at idle.

    Key is to not skimp on the oil. Use the recommended VW 502 00/505 00 specification oil like the Fuchs Titan Supersyn 5w40 or similar. It's pricey at around $75 for 5 litres (well it is down my way). Anything much thicker won't give you the cold start protection

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Adelaide South Australia
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    Noise could also be worn/dirty hydraulic lifters that allow oil to drain away overnight. How many kays has the van done. I agree with Seano, don't skimp on the quality of oil although it's not as critical as on the PD engines[T5]
    Also, welcome to the forum. Repost if you have any further questions, that I am sure you will have.
    Understand how it works, troubleshoot logically BEFORE replacing parts.
    2001 T4 TRAKKA Syncro 2.5TDI,2006 Mk5 2.0TDI Golf manual,2001 Polo 1.4 16V manual [now sold], '09 2.0CR TDI Tiguan manual,
    Numerous Mk1 Golf diesels

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Gympie Queensland
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    Users Country Flag
    Lost the one key that came with my recently acquired 2003 T4 2.5 litreTDI transporter.
    Have 2 keys on the way from Germany to my nearest VW workshop (100 ks away) Once I get them I have to have them encoded to match my T4 s ECU. I don't know anyone here near Gympie Q that can do this. The locksmiths here can match keys; but don't match keys to vehicles, as far as I've been able to find out.
    I'm wondering am I up for a 100k tow to the VW workshop? Or is there an easier way. eg. Can the ECU be easily removed and taken to the workshop to have the key encoded????
    Any thoughts? I'd appreciate them

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    Mt Cotton
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    I don,t think its the main ECU there is a separate little box which is next to the instrument binnacle up in the dash it is connected to the sensor which is around the top of the ignition barrel as you insert the key it reads the code and in turn this allows starting . I went through this process 18 months ago but I was lucky we still had the original key and Mr Minit copied the code and transferred it to the new key . I really do not know if the code could be read from the little box or not , its also quite a bit of work to get it out with the wiring etc plus you have to remove the instrument binnacle which not so hard to do . Maybe someone else might have another way for you .

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Gympie Queensland
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    Users Country Flag
    Thanks Sunny43.5
    When my 2 keys arrive at the VW dealer I'm hoping maybe they'll be able to tell me something. Anything than a 100km tow will probably sound good.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    geelong victoria
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    7
    Thread Starter
    The van has done 223000kms. I changed the oil when I got it but I put 10w 40 penrite oil in. Is this still too thick? Is the timing belt a hard thing to do on these? I have had the 2.5 petrol before and did a lot of mechanical work on that, is the diesel harder to do? Havent got a workshop manual yet. I also have a slight squeeking noise coming from the belt on idle. Would this be the tensioner, the belt looks good. I havent gone through a tank of diesel yet but have so far got 550 kms at half a tank. This would have to be the most economical car I have had. (Or the guage is dodgey).

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Adelaide South Australia
    Posts
    1,296
    A timing belt change on the TDI is more involved than the petrol, you have to work on both ends of camshaft. More tools may be needed & VAG COM is needed to set the timing correct which is very important. A few on this forum have done it, including myself, so it is doable but tools need to be sourced & plenty of reading done before you start.
    Here's a link to a writeup.
    http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=8106
    And another
    http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/VehicleS...ing/Timing.htm
    There are two belts that can cause squeeking. Disconnect the multirib belt that drives the alt., run the engine with it off & if squeek is still there it is coming from the cambelt drive. Worn/dry idlers can also cause a noise.
    I have done over 1000km on a tank by keeping the speed down & mine is a Syncro which uses more fuel than a 2WD.
    Last edited by jets; 11-12-2012 at 11:26 AM.
    Understand how it works, troubleshoot logically BEFORE replacing parts.
    2001 T4 TRAKKA Syncro 2.5TDI,2006 Mk5 2.0TDI Golf manual,2001 Polo 1.4 16V manual [now sold], '09 2.0CR TDI Tiguan manual,
    Numerous Mk1 Golf diesels

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    geelong victoria
    Posts
    7
    Thread Starter

    I have been thinking about doing the timing belt myself. I have been doing some reading of other guys efforts and reading the workshop manual (not as good as most). Are the tools readily available as I have some time up my sleeve next week or are there alternatives. If the timing wasnt altered at all is it ok to have the timing set properly by a mechanic after the work? Any info would be appreciated.

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