intermittent idle dip at operating temp and find fault.

[Bill Lee]

Just to add about page 1 and the dizzy hole center flat thing is the oil pump drive shaft tongue which is positioned in line with the crankshaft before dizzy insertion.

[supclean]

Not sure where your up to Bill It would be a good idea when your sorted with your cam timing to do your ignition timing as well

[Bill Lee]

Well, that's not soon, $300 for a idle control valve. It runs lumpy on or off so I might be wrong again and I really have a lot of reading to do. I don't think I can do ignition timing anyway..speshy tools.
ELECTRICAL components are suspected broken at this time...even the battery.
Why are the two vacume pipes too hard to find? Which ones the throttle connection.

Black or white?

Fresh filtered air or warm unfiltered air to the throttle body, continually sucking.
The other loops back to the lower unfiltered pan.
One lower one open and closes the warm valve??
Any ideas.

[supclean]

Not sure Bill Good idea to check that all your basics are correct before you move onto anything else
Check your cam timing,
Then with the engine at tdc check that your rotor points to no 1,
Check that all your leads are in the correct firing order
Then do your ignition timing
You should be able to pick up a timing light fairly cheap from eBay
Good luck

[Bill Lee]

Went to town today, got a filter and oil, looked for idle valve and battery. Oil is a recommended penrite $50, filter $30, battery $210 ,idle 300.
Adapted ecu to immo & clear code when this..00532 supply voltage b+ 0700 signal too low.
Means connections to/from ecu need checking OR battery on its way out.
De ja vu or what!
Just imaging me buying parts everyday....that's where I am.

[supclean]

The vacuum hose that you mentioned I think the upper black one goes to the throttle body The lower white one goes to the heat valve
The codes you are getting are probably caused by a low battery or you may have interrupted the power supply somewhere

[Bill Lee]

Thanks, will see next wed went van works again. Its stopped again after adapting immo/ecu,dropping oil, NEW filter,fixed idle valve, NEW battery as existing one is wrong sort.

Should get result then.

No this afternoon I got it going down the road again, and I've returned on the back of a tow truck. Although the experience is a downer the spark plugs were looked at and they were BLACK. NO SPARK AGAIN.
So.........?.will it ever end.

[supclean]

Back to basics need to determine if you are losing fuel or spark then trouble shoot from here
You'll need to verify first but with black plugs my guess the problem will be on ignition side

Black plugs sounds like an over fuelling issue with possible faults
Fuel pressure regulator
Blocked exhaust
Map sensor in the ecu. When you changed the ecu vacuum did it have any oil contamination inside?

[Bill Lee]

Tried all of it before replacing transformer and hall sender, leads transmit,on/run ignition gives current, dizzy set ...no spark...it just died in idle and won't spark!?, battery gave good current for attempts...just shuts everything off like the earth lead was taken away.

Map sensor.
I'm no expert and I don't know what the previous owner had happen but it looked clean all over, only soft areas in vacume hoses. Whether it has anything to do with making the things function the way they're doing, apart from the obvious working compensation whilst tuning, which IS amazing, there isn't much idication what it actually causes in malfunction/error if it CAN and noticeably correctly. (also engine 'hops' whilst changing) Of course it is on my list. Map sensor makes me cringe.program etc. etc.
The fuel TANK/components and exhaust are up next.
Waiting on new battery soooooon. Hopefully this might shed light on electrical management which could be entirely a broken battery voltage related. This is another thread I started. Constant unchanging current mean anything??????brings reason from the ecu??????


But you know no matter what I test or pick up they all have the described result or show no error in vcdsLITE and give a multimeter reading and don't look mechanically dead....

[Sunny43.5]

I know this may not be the answer but could Bill have the old relay problem ?? that used to plague T4,s I know mine would give some similar problems but not all that he has described .