Help please

[gt_tiling]

Hi guys i just wondering if 3k is a good price for this on vw t5 2.0 petrol.

Labour, flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, thrust bearing/slave and master cylinder. Euro sachs kit. About 6 to 7 hours labour.

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[gt_tiling]

Can someone tell me the location of the engine mounts on my 2007 t5 petrol please

[gt_tiling]

[JustCruisn]

Yep that is going to become a problem.
The boot has failed and dirt will now invade the ball joint.
Expect noisy suspension soon.

That looks fairly easy replace, compare to a Golf at least.

[Sunny43.5]

I have the same model and the VW clutch kit was around $600 , now at the time I did not know about that wonderful piece of junk known as DMF Dual Mass Flywheel so mine is still in there . I changed the clutch at 180000km as the throw out bearing was screaming , I only found out about the DMF after doing the job myself as the DMF had carked itself a hell of a long time before the replacement of the clutch . I always thought the shuddering in reverse was the springs in the clutch plate like the good old days were flogged out . It turns out that the two big springs inside the flywheel become compressed under load and then stay that way until failure or replacement . The price quote for the flywheel will be a big part as they are from memory around $1600 - $1900 genuine . There are some on Ebay aftermarket Japanese made ones around the $700 to $1200 . Mine is still in there it still shudders in reverse on an incline and my old girl has 290000 kays on the clock now , I did the job myself took around 7 hours with a mate helping .

[Sunny43.5]

There are three two are at the top of the engine inside the engine bay at each end you can see them looking down into the engine bay , the only other one is under the engine on the gearbox it attaches to the subframe right next to the steering rack . You have to remove or lower the subframe to get the box out , its a bitch to do without a hoist as you have to put all sorts of supports under the engine once you disconnect the lower mount . Then there is getting the box our whilst the subframe is still partly in the way .

[Umai Naa!!]

Actual rubber mounts are items #9, #4, #19, and #16.

#4 is between the radiator and front of the motor.

#19 is on the end of the gearbox.

#9 is on the subframe behind the motor.

#16 lives under the airbox, on the driver's side, on the end of the motor.

#4 is the one that cops the most abuse, and is around $100. Not too hard to replace. There's an 18mm bolt that is f-ing tight, that goes through it from the driver's side, and two 13mm bolts underneith that attach it to the subframe. Once those are undone, you just push it out the front, between the bumper and the subframe. You don't need a jack, or anything like that. Maybe a long prybar just in case.

Next one likely to go, is #19. A little tricky, but can be done without too much trouble.

I've never seen the other two fail. Even on ones with the 2.5L 128kw TDI-powered ones.

[gt_tiling]

[gt_tiling]

Actual rubber mounts are items #9, #4, #19, and #16.

#4 is between the radiator and front of the motor.

#19 is on the end of the gearbox.

#9 is on the subframe behind the motor.

#16 lives under the airbox, on the driver's side, on the end of the motor.

#4 is the one that cops the most abuse, and is around $100. Not too hard to replace. There's an 18mm bolt that is f-ing tight, that goes through it from the driver's side, and two 13mm bolts underneith that attach it to the subframe. Once those are undone, you just push it out the front, between the bumper and the subframe. You don't need a jack, or anything like that. Maybe a long prybar just in case.

Next one likely to go, is #19. A little tricky, but can be done without too much trouble.

I've never seen the other two fail. Even on ones with the 2.5L 128kw TDI-powered ones.

Thanks all for the help umai naa are u a mechanic?

[Umai Naa!!]

Yes.

Yes I am.