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Thread: Harold - the T25 van (1.8T content)

  1. #41
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    nice work, i don't think i've ever seen i reverse drill bit come out as clean as that (a cheap one anyway). i have snapped them off in the past and then you're in big dramas...

    cool build, onward and upwards...

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by guile View Post
    nice work, i don't think i've ever seen i reverse drill bit come out as clean as that (a cheap one anyway). i have snapped them off in the past and then you're in big dramas...

    cool build, onward and upwards...
    That makes two of us hahaha. I was quite surprised to be honest, and reaaaally happy with it all working out too. Funny how I spend $20 on food just for lunch only to poop it out, and these $10 tools saved a whole world of pain!
    - Orange Golf mk1 LS, 1.8 5speed, 32/36 - sold
    - Golf mk1 Swallowtail rebuild, completely stripped
    - Brown U.S import 81 cabby
    - 88 Honda crx b18cr

  3. #43
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    May 2006
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    In engineering, these are normally called easy-outs. One problem with these is if the stud is really tight, screwing it in [because of the taper] makes it even tighter. There is another type that is square on a slight taper with a slight cutting edge formed on one side so that it bites in when unscrewing. Once again if the stud is very tight, the square taper can distort it & make it even tighter. There is a skill required [based on previous stuff ups] on how large a drill is used. Too small & risk the possible breakage of easy-out or too large that allows the stud to distort & be made tighter.
    In your case the head of the screw has broken off & the only thing needed to unscrew the stud [using the centre punch method] is to break the hold of the Loctite.
    I am pleased for you that you had a happy outcome.
    Understand how it works, troubleshoot logically BEFORE replacing parts.
    2001 T4 TRAKKA Syncro 2.5TDI,2006 Mk5 2.0TDI Golf manual,2001 Polo 1.4 16V manual [now sold], '09 2.0CR TDI Tiguan manual,
    Numerous Mk1 Golf diesels

  4. #44
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    Good job now can I have my box of tissues back ?

  5. #45
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    will you be running an intercooler?
    If so, there will a heap of pipe work needed!

    How's the little brown cabby going, I called into your place a few years back to get some rear seat belts from the cab you were wrecking!

  6. #46
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    great outcome

    i was expecting it to be more of an issue with you using loctite, got lucky

    looking forwards to the install
    2017 VW T6 3200KG GVM LWB 132kW 7 Speed DSG (Campervan Conversion)

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by jets View Post
    In engineering, these are normally called easy-outs. One problem with these is if the stud is really tight, screwing it in [because of the taper] makes it even tighter. There is another type that is square on a slight taper with a slight cutting edge formed on one side so that it bites in when unscrewing. Once again if the stud is very tight, the square taper can distort it & make it even tighter. There is a skill required [based on previous stuff ups] on how large a drill is used. Too small & risk the possible breakage of easy-out or too large that allows the stud to distort & be made tighter.
    In your case the head of the screw has broken off & the only thing needed to unscrew the stud [using the centre punch method] is to break the hold of the Loctite.
    I am pleased for you that you had a happy outcome.
    I think I have seen the square easy outs you are referring to. At work when one of our techs snaps out a stud, we have a specialist come out to us and I've seen him use it. Very interesting to see how the professionals do it, thats for sure !


    Quote Originally Posted by ericcs View Post
    will you be running an intercooler?
    If so, there will a heap of pipe work needed!

    How's the little brown cabby going, I called into your place a few years back to get some rear seat belts from the cab you were wrecking!
    Hey Eric, I do actually remember you! long time no chat Brown cabby is gone, and this is actually the 1.8T from that cabby haha.

    Yes intercooler will be run, but not a lot of plumping needed at all from what I can tell. I am however considering running a small 12v fan attached to it to assist in cooling, but am un-decided on how to monitor when to turn it on/off. I have read of some folks using a probed adjustable thermostat switch - then set it to a certain temp and when it gets too hot the fan turns on. This will allow me to route the intercooler in the back, rather than the front of the van to save the extra work.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bryn23 View Post
    great outcome

    i was expecting it to be more of an issue with you using loctite, got lucky

    looking forwards to the install
    Thanks mate, only a few more service items to go on today, and I'll be dropping the motor in. My welder has broken, so will be struggling to make engine mounts - but will cross that bridge when we get there.
    - Orange Golf mk1 LS, 1.8 5speed, 32/36 - sold
    - Golf mk1 Swallowtail rebuild, completely stripped
    - Brown U.S import 81 cabby
    - 88 Honda crx b18cr

  8. #48
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    Hey Eric, I do actually remember you! long time no chat Brown cabby is gone, and this is actually the 1.8T from that cabby haha.

    Yes intercooler will be run, but not a lot of plumping needed at all from what I can tell. I am however considering running a small 12v fan attached to it to assist in cooling, but am un-decided on how to monitor when to turn it on/off. I have read of some folks using a probed adjustable thermostat switch - then set it to a certain temp and when it gets too hot the fan turns on. This will allow me to route the intercooler in the back, rather than the front of the van to save the extra work.

    oh, ok. So the intercooler stays up the back, was wondering about the pipework going all the way to the front!
    so, instead of cruising with your mates in the cabby, you now cruise with your lady in the T3. Interesting to watch you do something different with your cars, keep it up!

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by ericcs View Post
    oh, ok. So the intercooler stays up the back, was wondering about the pipework going all the way to the front!
    so, instead of cruising with your mates in the cabby, you now cruise with your lady in the T3. Interesting to watch you do something different with your cars, keep it up!
    Haha, thanks mate. It's been a fun project that's for sure, I just can't have an un-modified car around me lmao so had to do something with it.


    Alright so Sunday was a big day, put in a solid 5 hours and did quite a bit.
    Ok, round 2 on the clutch pressure plate. Ordered new genuine 10.9 grade bolts this time to make sure we don't make the same mistake twice haha. Also actually tightened them to exact spec, AND didn't use Loctite hahaha. Things went well this time round.




    Then came the studs. I used the 2 nut locking system thingo majigy trickery doo. Worked great.




    Ahh, the benefits of working at a VW dealer. All new gaskets, bolts, washers, seals etc. (only half pictured)
    Did a new water pump, thermostat and all the plastic water housings too as they are notorious for cracking and breaking on the MK4s! Small price to pay for a piece of mind.








    New thermostat and housing too.






    This is the glue/sealant I have been using for years. A lot of people always always tell me I don't need to use sealant for stuff like this, but I really like to for an added piece of mind. This particular one never technically dries, it is also very thin and easy to apply and seals very well - plus its always easy to remove. It can be bought from any Super Cheap Auto store, and is my personal favourite over the years.



    After that was all done, it was finally time to get the motor together along with the gearbox. My old man helped me lift the motor off of my make shift engine stand, and onto the floor to assemble the two together. I don't have a clutch alignment tool and always do it by eye, so it's always a good thing when they align first go hahah.

    (Excuse the mess, it was raining pretty heavy yesterday and the whole floor was a big wet warzone)





    Once I tightened everything up I move onto the alternator bracket. The MK4's use this bracket for alternator and for P/S. But because I don't want the P/S I chopped the bracket up to save some room and weight on the motor. Then after that I fitted the Alternator onto the motor. Really happy about this as it's a much more modern alternator than the old one, so charging should be sweeeet






    Toward the end of the day I was pretty well stuffed, so took on an easier task. I started designing the passenger side engine mount. After careful measurements, I found the exact same position of the mounting hole on the other side of the OEM drivers side mount I got from the Audi A4.




    There is not much options for a support rod from the top of the block due to the turbo. There is only one mounting hole, and you can see where I placed the bolt to indicate where I plan on adding a support rod to strengthen the bracket up. I think it should do the job nicely, but I have a few more ideas to beef it up a bit. Just got to get my welder sorted ASAP!

    Last edited by GeorgeMK1; 28-08-2017 at 10:17 AM.
    - Orange Golf mk1 LS, 1.8 5speed, 32/36 - sold
    - Golf mk1 Swallowtail rebuild, completely stripped
    - Brown U.S import 81 cabby
    - 88 Honda crx b18cr

  10. #50
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Mt Cotton
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    3,752

    Is that clutch running a Dual Mass Flywheel ? as for lining up the clutch my uncle showed me a cheap trick using a piece of wooden dowel always worked a treat .

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