EGR blanking options?

[twistit]

Im trying to work out how the known bad EGR valves let aluminium particles into the engine that causes wear.
Will blocking a bad one stop this (the dry side) or does it happen on the wet oil side at the filter and require the complete upgraded D' version?
Also is it fine to block the EGR without removing the DPF?
Thanks!

Its a CFCA bi turbo with the known ****ty EGR im refering to

[Kombi]

t’s been a while since I researched this problem, plenty of information if you join the fb group.
From memory the aluminium particles contaminates the engine oil in the cooler part.
The combination egr & cooler & filter was replaced as a complete unit in my case.
I was told blocking egr without removing dpf will cause problems, I tried it anyway, after about 5000km mine went into unregenerable limp mode with blocked dpf, my understanding is that you need the egr to get the high temperature needed to burn the soot in dpf.

[Kombi]

The egr is not the only suspect relating to high oil consumption, also stuck oil rings and also valve stem seals.
My old engine had good compression while drinking 2L1000km, but no power loss
I think most engines with cylinder scoring suffers low compression and power loss

[twistit]

t’s been a while since I researched this problem, plenty of information if you join the fb group.
From memory the aluminium particles contaminates the engine oil in the cooler part.
The combination egr & cooler & filter was replaced as a complete unit in my case.
I was told blocking egr without removing dpf will cause problems, I tried it anyway, after about 5000km mine went into unregenerable limp mode with blocked dpf, my understanding is that you need the egr to get the high temperature needed to burn the soot in dpf.

ive ordered an egr emulator that tricks the ecu into thinking it’s still there but actually it’s blocked off, I guess I’ll see what happens

[Lucas_R]

I was told blocking egr without removing dpf will cause problems, I tried it anyway, after about 5000km mine went into unregenerable limp mode with blocked dpf, my understanding is that you need the egr to get the high temperature needed to burn the soot in dpf.

Same here but on a different engine (3.0V6 TDI biTurbo). I had my car remapped and EGR coded out, and blocked off the EGR with a blanking plate. After about 3,000km the car went into full on limp mode and my dpf's were registering 488% full. Had to physically remove the dpf's and clean them out with chemicals and high pressure water, reinstall them and then reset the dpf information using VCDS. Then got the car remapped again (new file) to re-enable the EGR and removed the blanking plate.

My car usually does a dpf regen every 450-500km or so, and after the EGR was coded out, it went for approx 3,000km without doing a dpf regen, before finally going into a soft limp mode and then a full on limp mode.

Doing further research after the fact, the EGR and DPF need to be deleted at the same time. Silly me for not knowing enough about how these systems work on TDI's, but also I partly blame the tuner who didn't advise of the risks. If I knew this was a possibility I would not have done it because it ended up being a big inconvenience and pain in the arse, with the car off the road for about 10 days during the Christmas period.

[Kombi]

I blew out ash in blocked dpf with big air compressior, thankfully vw paid for new engine, but I would have paid for a V6 if a T5 conversion was available or possible, 200+ hp is enough but 6 cylinders would be even better. I might stil fit a oil cooler, as oil temperature quickly reaches over 120° when “speeding”

[Kombi]

Wise move twistit, deleting or blocking egr the safest bet on these engines. What suffix egr on yours ? Plaque next to oil filter. Keep in mind that engine will take a bit longer to reach operating temperature without an egr recirculating warm exhaust gases, I would recommend changing your oil more frequently.

[Sunny43.5]

I blew out ash in blocked dpf with big air compressior, thankfully vw paid for new engine, but I would have paid for a V6 if a T5 conversion was available or possible, 200+ hp is enough but 6 cylinders would be even better. I might stil fit a oil cooler, as oil temperature quickly reaches over 120° when “speeding”

I can,t believe that a van built for transporting a ton of goods etc is being saddled with a 4 pot 2.0 litre engine . A V6 should be the minimum in a van like these , even my old CFS Bedford had a factory Holden 202 6 cylinder in it and it was a great van , we didn,t get a 4 pot in that one . Even my old T4 had a 2.5 litre 5 pot petrol engine and that was a strong engine with plenty of get up and go .

[twistit]

Wise move twistit, deleting or blocking egr the safest bet on these engines. What suffix egr on yours ? Plaque next to oil filter. Keep in mind that engine will take a bit longer to reach operating temperature without an egr recirculating warm exhaust gases, I would recommend changing your oil more frequently.

It’s the C type, the one meant to go bad. Apparently the emulator doesn’t screw with dpf regeneration or at least that’s what I was told by the maker of them.

[Kombi]

Sunny I agree, read this article just yesterday,
Australia is the biggest market in the world for the Volkswagen Amarok TDV6, Volkswagen Australia says almost 90 per cent of the 1200 Amaroks sold in Australia in June were TDV6s.