Dual Battery Options and Fitting

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Originally Posted by Pickle

I'm looking at doing the same thing and will use the Ctek smart charger with solar option. easier to spend more now that have to revisit the job in the future.

12V Bundle Multi Tool Smart Battery Charger | CTEK | Edisons

Thats a high price, look on ebay for a cheaper price.

When I removed my dual seat I found a nice big fat positive cable all taped up under the seat so i hope thats a direct connection to the battery so i don't have to run a new cable. I've replaced the twin seat with a single as i want the walk through function, that means I may have issues finding a home for the second battery.

I would go for a fully sealed battery maybe a AGM around the 80Ah size so it can run your freezer for a while off line, I will be using it for similar uses to you, freezer, lights and power.

Would be interested to see how you go.

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Pickle, I am looking to do this exact thing. My T6 has bench seat and 2nd battery options fitted as factory, but want to go to swiveling passenger capt chair. Wonder how I will get on re-siting the 2nd battery.

Cheers TimBat

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Originally Posted by timbat

Pickle, I am looking to do this exact thing. My T6 has bench seat and 2nd battery options fitted as factory, but want to go to swiveling passenger capt chair. Wonder how I will get on re-siting the 2nd battery.

Cheers TimBat

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If you disconnect the sensor on the negative ( - ) terminal of the cranking battery, you do not need a DC/DC device and the auxiliary battery will charge faster.

I actually have a lithium auxiliary battery and have been running this setup for 18 months now.

I forgot to mention, if you disconnect the sense on the Negative ( - ) Terminal of the cranking battery, you will also deactivate the STOP/START function, so you will no long have to cancel it every time you start your motor.

Also note, with the sensor disconnected, your cranking battery should have a longer lifespan.

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Originally Posted by drivesafe

I forgot to mention, if you disconnect the sense on the Negative ( - ) Terminal of the cranking battery, you will also deactivate the STOP/START function, so you will no long have to cancel it every time you start your motor.

Also note, with the sensor disconnected, your cranking battery should have a longer lifespan.

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I tried this a few years ago, as stop/start is just a mess on the transporter, dangerous in my view, if you have one you know what it’s like.

This little trick didn’t work on my T6 132kw euro 5. I treated the stop start button like a seatbelt, turning it off before driving off

Hi Bryn23, did you by any chance monitor you voltage while the sensor was disconnected.

I have had mine disconnected for nearly 18 months now and the voltage never drops below 13.8v but most of the time, it sits at around 14.1v

PS, What year is your T6?

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Originally Posted by drivesafe

Hi Bryn23, did you by any chance monitor you voltage while the sensor was disconnected.

I have had mine disconnected for nearly 18 months now and the voltage never drops below 13.8v but most of the time, it sits at around 14.1v

PS, What year is your T6?

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My T6 is a MY17, i used a scangauge that i installed to keep an eye on the Voltage with it disconnected, i was still seeing the T6 do it's Low Voltage range of 12.1-12.6 volts

I think i might reinstall scangauge, and recheck the voltage with it, i took it off as i had planned on selling the T6.

Since then i have changed over the 30amp DC-DC to a 60amp DC-DC charger and a Vatra 92Ah starter battery.