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Thread: Cracked Manifold

  1. #21
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    How to remove VW Transporter t5 exhaust manifold
    Manifold off and welded. Quick rundown of what it takes to remove and its not as hard as i was told it would be.
    1.Pipe from turbo to intercooler remove spring clips with screw driver be sure to plug all holes with rags as you go
    2.Air box unclip top half, one bolt in 2nd half plus 2 stuipd plastic push in mounts carefull not to break them I got it out with one still intact.
    3.Metal pipe from exhaust manifold to inlet.
    4. Exhaust from turbo 5mm allen key to undo the clamp and a screw driver to get it off. get the van on some jack stands or ramps undo first slip joint clamp remove section of exhaust.
    5.Four bolts holding turbo to the exhaust manifold, I got 3 of the 4 bolts undone with a t50 torx bit, but had to borrow the right size bit from my local vw mech after trying ten different shops to buy the right size bit am replacing these bolts with allen heads.
    6.This is the worst part get under the car and look up under the turbo there are three t55 torx head bolts that need to come out, it did suck but I got them out.
    7.One 16mm bolt hidden under the exhaust manifold holds the tubo to the motor, reach over the top of the motor on the exhaust side of the turbo with your digital camera and take a photo thats how I found it.
    8.Undo all the 12mm nuts on the manifold dont drop any I wasted alot of time fishing around for nuts and the spacers that go with them.

    Thats it, with all that done I could take my cracked exhaust manifold off and weld it up.
    Some pix. Behind motor

    16mm bolt under manifold


    the crack almost made it the whole way round look close you can see the start and finish of the crack
    Last edited by augie; 28-07-2011 at 08:49 PM.

  2. #22
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    I found that it didnt want to sit flat

    So I put a cut through this which let it sit flat

    Tack it down to something flat and stong

    Grind it out

    and weld


    $1100 saved not sure how it will last but it is worth a go

  3. #23
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    Nice work there. Would you like me to move the above (your) posts in T5 How to do this and that thread?

    I'm thinking about that distortion and the manifold cracking in the T5s. How about to make a gasket from 1mm – 1.5mm soft copper sheet? It should seal well and maybe prevent the cracking.
    Last edited by Transporter; 26-07-2011 at 11:45 PM.

  4. #24
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    Augie,

    Could you supply your address so we can all send our to you when they crack?

    Good work and its good to see people having a go them selves.

    Rob

  5. #25
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    I am going to engage a fitter and turner to weld up mine.

    I'll take it off and get it done up. Have a new gasket and brass nuts waiting to go.

  6. #26
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    Yea transporter move them if thats a better place for it. Im hoping the cut through the small steel bar should relive the stress on that cracked exhaust flange I just hope it hasnt moved the stress point some where else. copper gasket could help but I wouldnt go that thick cause it could put load on the flex joint. I'll keep an eye on this and let you know how it goes.
    Hey rob any tig welder should have no problem welding one up or a mig with stainless wire or even a stick welder will get the job done, as for having a go that's just me not wanting to part with my hard earned I'm pretty handy one the tools but I'm a fabricator definatly not a mechanic
    Last edited by augie; 22-08-2011 at 08:36 PM.

  7. #27
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    Nice work.

    Looks like I might be tackling one of these for a bloke in a couple of weeks.

    What filler rod did you use? Looks like it might have been HT/dissimilar metals type rod, like a 607 or something?

    APR Tuned | KW Suspension | INA Engineering | Mocal Oil Control |
    Website: http://www.tprengineering.com
    Email: chris@tprengineering.com

  8. #28
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    Seems that there is quite a bit of space to get to everything which is a plus!

    Quote Originally Posted by Preen59 View Post
    Looks like I might be tackling one of these for a bloke in a couple of weeks.
    I think that guy wants his cat removed, and possibly a mufflerectomy at the same time.

  9. #29
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    Good luck Mikinoz.
    The first rubbish one I had a go at I used 316 2.4mm filler wire welded up nice but this was to thick, so I got a little bit of .6 and .9 stainless mig wire from a stainless fab shop not sure what grade but it was all they had so it would do.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikinoz View Post
    Seems that there is quite a bit of space to get to everything which is a plus!



    I think that guy wants his cat removed, and possibly a mufflerectomy at the same time.
    Hahaaa we're going all-out are we?

    Quote Originally Posted by augie View Post
    Good luck Mikinoz.
    The first rubbish one I had a go at I used 316 2.4mm filler wire welded up nice but this was to thick, so I got a little bit of .6 and .9 stainless mig wire from a stainless fab shop not sure what grade but it was all they had so it would do.
    Cool. I thought as much. I usually use 1.6mm filler for most of the stuff I do (not that i've been on the end of a TIG for a while, unfortunately). Thanks for the info, mate. Appreciated.

    APR Tuned | KW Suspension | INA Engineering | Mocal Oil Control |
    Website: http://www.tprengineering.com
    Email: chris@tprengineering.com

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