Can I salvage anything from my T5 train wreck :(

[Greg Roles]

Wasn't trying to give life advice, so apologies if you took it as such! I'm guilty of reading horror stories yet continuing with a 2.5 TDI engine that near killed me to overcome, so I'm not particularly smart!!

I had a look and your CAAC is the same apart from a different orientation of the intake manifold etc to make it a more typical narrower "fit in a van" engine. The head, block, fuel pumps, and all the actual bolt on components are all familiar to me. It's absolutely an EA189, so all the same family. Plenty of parts available.

[aSimpleLife]

What an absolute bummer of an experience...

Thankyou for your thoughts and suggestions. They're appreciated as usual.
The good news is I could eventually see where I went wrong...and have accepted it. Now I'm just trying to make the best of a bad situation financially. Trying not to give it away. But not wanting to throw any more good money after bad than I have to. There will be a balance in there somewhere that I hope to find.

I'll keep the key solution in mind thanks. First I think I'll replace the old diesel just in case that is a problem and I make things worse by contaminating the fuel system. Then I can crank it more than the 3 or 4 times I have tried so far. Although 2-1/2 years ago it used to always start first time. Even when it then only ran for a few seconds.

Do you have any thoughts on whether 2+ year old diesel should be flushed out?

[aSimpleLife]

Wasn't trying to give life advice, so apologies if you took it as such!

Hahaha...not at all.
Absolutely no need for apologies as there was nothing to be offended by.
I'm just really grateful for anyone taking their time to provide their experience/opinions. And don't want to discourage that by making them feel I am depending on them to make my decisions for me.

Thankyou for the engine confirmation. It's nice to know that it is a fundamentally sound base to work from. And that spare parts availability will be good. I had previously been advised by one of the moderators on here that having a single turbo manual was probably the most reliable configuration I could have bought...although it didn't help much with fires
I also understand what you say about not wanting stuff lying around. I am like that too. But I also like having parts at hand when I need them and that seems to be working well with my falcons the last few years.
However I don't yet have good storage facilities which is unfortunate.
Also whatever vehicle I end up sticking with, I am planning for it to be my last ice one. So all the time I invest in it and parts that I store, I view as a cost saving measure over time.

[aSimpleLife]

As mentioned elsewhere, under the passenger seat is a connection to the fuel pump. In my model this is the Blue and Green and Yellow wire in the Dark Red/Maroon plug. I ran a positive wire from the battery to this and the pump runs without needing the ignition or accessories turned on.

Also following advice elsewhere, in the engine bay at the fuel filter I disconnected the blue return to tank line by pushing in the connector clip with a screwdriver. This should be the back position closest to the firewall of the 4 connectors. I then connected my length of plastic tube to the exposed outlet on the fuel filter, with the other end in a jerry can...or in my case a series of jerry cans

They were not wrong about how long it's going to take. And I don't think what I did at the fuel filter makes any difference? I believe there is only one fuel pump and that is a low pressure one? Looks like around 90 minutes per 20 litre jerry can. Which would not be so bad, except that I still can't start the car, so the battery keeps going flat in less than a jerry can. It's going to take probably the rest of the day. And doing this out on the street isn't ideal. But no choice really.

I also read a warning about not running the pump for more than a minute to void burning it out. But this can't be correct? Nor can I wait that long. I am assuming they might have meant don't run it for more than a minute with no fuel? Which means near the end I need to be careful.

Once the tank is completely empty I assume refilling with a fresh 20 litres should be enough to sufficiently dilute any scum that may be left in the tank. Rather than me removing the tank to try and clean it. The diesel coming out looks and smells ok to me...whatever that amounts to. It's been sitting in the tank for over 2 years.

[aSimpleLife]

Unfortunately the Haynes manual for 2003 to 2014 says it's only for 2.5 and 1.9 litre engines. When mine is the 2.0
But I think it is indicating I have 2 fuel pumps;

- the primary or low pressure fuel pump located in the fuel tank - which is what I have been operating - and is only designed to run for a few seconds to prime the fuel system

- the tandem or high pressure fuel pump located after the fuel filter - which I assume is the main pump used while driving the van.

Therefore the warnings I saw about not running the low pressure pump for more than a minute could be correct.
It looks like I have gotten away with it so far...but there is more than 40 litres of old fuel still to remove.

[aSimpleLife]

Well, some good news.
The van is running again. I let it run for 5 minutes.
For some reason it is no longer cutting out after a few seconds.
Which is was what was happening 2+ years ago when I got it back from the auto elec and left it on the street.
I assume its related to the battery being disconnected for a long time. But I thought the auto elec had tried that. And that I did too.
I also assume it will return to cutting out again soon. So Im not game to drive it anywhere yet.

I eventually pumped out all the 60L of old diesel in many 15 minute bursts with a 5 minute break between. The low pressure tank pump seems to have survived the experience.
Then refilled with 20L of new diesel and kept the low pressure tank pump running until all air bubbles had passed through the hose.
Then removed the hose and clipped the return fuel line back on the filter.
It took about 8 cranks to eventually start. After the first 4 cranks it seemed to get a bit closer each time. The first time it started it kept running.
There was no need to prime the second tandem high pressure pump, which is sometimes required apparently.

The engine warning light is still on as expected
Have a VCDS cable on the way. Will do a reset and see which codes remain/are present now.
It is possible the EGR system is due for some work. That error is dated earlier than the others. Which is how I remember it.
The other fault codes are dated later and around the same time. I am assuming with these corroded terminal/wiring/ecu is the most likely cause.

Tomorrow I need to get it up on ramps and make a thorough assessment of the fire extinguisher related rusting inside and underneath. The sliding door is rusted up again and I have repaired that once already. I've already noted loads of other surface rust spots and on nuts/bolts that just shouldn't be rusting.

Once this is done I can make decision on whether to try and drive it again or not.
If I try to keep it, then probably a new engine bay loom is my first purchase.
If not then I'll part is out. Once I have some space to do this
As long as it keeps running I should get a better price for my lowish km full service history engine and tranmission.
Worst case I'll strip and store everything and try to eventually pick up another identical one cheap.
That sounds like a plan, for now.

[aSimpleLife]

Raised the van and did a fairly thorough inspection for rust.
Was surprised by how good it looked. Considering the doomsayers...including myself :/
Removed some but not all the underside covers.

Based on that I'll assume it's good enough to keep driving...until it isn't
Once I've got a vcds cable I'll assess the error codes.
I am expecting at a minimimum I'll need to do something about the EGR.

4 years ago I emptied 2 full size Presto ABE powder fire extinguishers inside and under the van from the passenger side and possibly inside the engine bay (can't remember). I later hosed everything out with water.
The van has been sitting out on the street for the last 2 years without being started.

The engine bay and under the vehicle only show a few rust affected bolts here and there which I have begun treating.
There is no evidence yet of it rusting from the inside out as had been suggested. At the time all the interior cover panels were on which seems to have largely prevented the powder getting into unwanted crevices?
My interior seats including the custom rear ones have significant rust though.
The passenger side door could be rusting from the inside out. I haven't taken the trim off yet.
And the passenger sliding door lower runner is almost rusted up again...and this has been repaired once already.
From the UK forums this seems to be a common problem and repair the with their salty roads.

Can't tell yet about corrosion of electrical connectors. Assume I'll start that process when I get my VCDS cable and review the current error codes. I'll be hoping to repair those rather than buying and installing new looms...if that's possible.
As mentioned for some reason the stalling after a few seconds that the auto elec seemed to have started is no longer happening. I don't understand this and as yet am not game to drive it anywhere. But it starts and runs and ive gone a few metres up and down the street and onto the ramps.

I suppose at any stage I can still go to plan B and part it out.
Maybe try and get a very good price for the engine and transmission. Then sell off the rest over time.
Or pickup another good condition but cheap identical van. At least the prices should continue to fall over time.

[aSimpleLife]

The upshot is, I only seem to have ended up with an EGR fault?

While this should be good news, it doesn't seem to explain the things I've seen, been told and previous scan results
Perhaps I should not have told the VW mechanic and general auto elec about the fire extinguishers, as maybe that led them to make false assumptions. In the end both said they didn't want to work on the van any further.

As attached in my first post, in Dec 2021 my regular VW mechanic scanned my van and said the scan would not complete and I could have one or more earth issues as a result of corrosion. He did not feel the error codes were correct. At this stage the engine light (not coil?) was on and it was regularly in limp mode.
5 Faults Found:
1. 4807 EGR System - P0401 00 [104] Insufficient Flow
Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
2. 11901 Manifold Pressure / Boost Sensor (G31) - P0236 00 [032] Implausible Signal
Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
3. 4124 Sensor Reference Voltage B - P0651 00 [032] Open Circuit
Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
4. 4881 EGR Valve (N18 ) - P1440 00 [032] Open Circuit
Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
5. Engine Speed Sensor (G28 ) - P0322 00 [096] No Signal
Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear

Gave it to an auto elec with all this information and both keys. He by-passed something and thought it was successful. Whatever that meant. But when he reconnected the battery the next week the van would start but only run for a few seconds. He could not resolve this. Can only assume now that he had somehow triggered the immobiliser? And for some reason he did not know how to resolve this. Towed the van home and parked it out on the street. Thought I''d tried starting it a few times but it kept cutting out? Thought I had tried long period of leaving the battery disconnected in between? In the end disconnected the battery and thats where it sat for the next 2+ years

Have just recently got the van started again. The cutting out after a few seconds has gone? I can only assume the long period with the battery disconnected has reset whatever immobilised it? Haven't been game to drive it very far yet. Is it likely to start happening again?

Now have access to VCDS scanning and my first scan result was;
Address 01: Engine (J623-CAAC) Labels:. 03L-906-022-CAA.clb
2 Faults Found:
4881 - EGR Valve (N18 ) P1440 00 [032] - Open Circuit
Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
4900 - EGR Sensor 1 P0405 00 [175] - Signal too Low
MIL ON - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Address 03: ABS Brakes (-----) Labels: 7E0-907-37x-MK25AXT.clb
2 Faults Found:
01314 - Engine Control Module - 004 - No Signal/Communication – Intermittent
01314 - Engine Control Module - 013 - Check DTC Memory – Intermittent
Address 08: Auto HVAC (J301) Labels:| 7E5-907-047.clb
1 Fault Found:
13701376 - Function Restricted due to Missing Message(s)
U1111 00 [008] - - [New feature! Extended UDS fault detail is only supported by cur gen i/f]
Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Address 09: Cent. Elect. (J519) Labels:. 7H0-937-08x-09.clb
Subsystem 1 - Part No SW: 7E0 959 801 B HW: 7E0 959 801 B Labels: 7E0-959-80X-V1.CLB
Subsystem 2 - Part No SW: 7E0 959 802 B HW: 7E0 959 802 B Labels: 7E0-959-80X-V1.CLB
3 Faults Found:
03303 - Response Closing Status of Rear Left Door - 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
00446 - Function Limitation due to Under-Voltage - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
03444 - Ignition Starter Switch - 008 - Implausible Signal – Intermittent
Address 17: Instruments (J285) Labels:| 5K0-920-xxx-17.clb-SRI1
1 Fault Found:
9453074 - Fuel Level Sensor 1 - B103E 1B [008] - Resistance Too High
Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear

I have since done a number of scans. Have reset the dtc's. And driven the van about 10km.
This is my latest full scan result - just 1 now fault;
Address 01: Engine (J623-CAAC)
1 Fault Found:
4900 - EGR Sensor 1 P0405 00 [175] - Signal too Low
MIL ON - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 175221 km
Date: 2024.11.17
Time: 03:29:50
Engine RPM: 860.00 /min
Normed load value: 31.0 %
Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
Coolant temperature: 76 °C
Intake air temperature: 31 °C
Ambient air pressure: 980 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 14.220 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40
Air mass: actual value (mg/stroke): 341.0 mg/stroke
EGR Vacuum Regulator Solen.val.: activation: 100.00 %
EGR Solen.val.: actual value: 100.00 %
EGR valve: offset closed: 4.00 %
Actuator for high pressure EGR: status-Bits 0-7: 0
Actuator for high pressure EGR: status-Bits 0-7: 55
Actuator for high pressure EGR: status-Bits 0-7: 0
Actuator for high pressure EGR: status-Bits 0-7: 0
High press EGR actuator: actual unconditioned volt val: 6.6 mV
Readiness: 1 1 0 0 1

I presume this other EGR code, gone since the reset will eventually return?
4881 - EGR Valve (N18 ) P1440 00 [032] - Open Circuit
Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear.

The engine warnig light is on. But not the coil warning light.

[aSimpleLife]

Now that I'm apparently left with just an EGR problem, the question is can I cost effectively troubleshoot and repair it?
I've done some research and watched this very good video and it's comments that's been linked here before.
In the video he had 4 fault codes. Different codes to mine. And his EGR valve seemed to be in a worse state than mine, based on the codes, which makes sense, and gives me hope of a simpler solution.

For some history, back in 2011 I think my EGR valve was replaced under warranty. After a warning light and limp mode. Something the dealer said was a known fault. I don't have a record of that now.
In 2019, before my fire, I had a warning light again. A new Exhaust Temperature Sensor resolved it.
Over this time I have seen both coil and engine warning lights. But have not accurately recorded which happened when. It may not matter?
Now I have the engine warning light only and limp mode from time to time. It's been 2 years since it started but I have not been driving it.
Unless I have an electrical problem, at 175,000km it seems likely I have a build up in my EGR valve. Especially when the last few years I was doing more short trips.
Have had the van from new and it's never used any coolant and I am pretty sure it is still not using any oil (hasn't even had an oil leak .

My pathway from here starting from lowest cost seems to be;

1. Check all earths and wiring connectors. Not sure how to do this yet. A physical inspection. But to be sure I need to learn how to do a proper electrical test. Otherwise I could start doing more work unnecessarily.

2. Try the Liqui Moly Diesel Engine Intake Decarb spray as recommended here on another thread.
If I keep the van then this should be done as regular maintenance?

3. Start replacing sensors. Not sure how many there are? Could the Exhaust Temperature Sensor have failed again after only 3 years? I'll need to get current prices before deciding if this is worth the cost?

4. Remove and clean the EGR valve? The video stated this would be a waste of time. But the comments suggest otherwise. I suppose once it is off I can make that assessment. I can clean, reassemble, reinstall and hope for the best. Or if it looks too bad while off I could decide to just buy and install a new one?

5. Replace the EGR valve. Apparently non genuine are not good value? Change EGR to D version? (does this apply to a CAAC engine?) I'll need to get current prices before deciding if this is worth the cost?

6. Cheap blanking option. There is the controversial Tafmet EGR valve simulator with blanking plates for CFCA engines. This looks affordable and easy to install.
However they don't make them for my CAAC engine. All they have which I don't understand yet is the EGR valve blanking plates with gaskets for Audi VW Seat with 2.0 TDI CR Diesel engines.
Maybe there are other options I haven't found yet?

7. Full price blanking option. Apparently to do this properly means blanking the EGR and catalytic converter and deleting the DPF including a tune with ecu remap? 5 years back I was quoted around 3k for this. Not a cost effective option. Especially when it's not legal.

Note - Also recommended here is that a genuine Provent 200 catch can on the blowby reduces buildup considerably? (for the future if I was keeping it?)

[aSimpleLife]

I took the car for a 3rd short drive today. Just another few km and not over 60kmh.
There was 5 seconds of very low power until I assume the turbo kicked in.
In at least 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears (I didn't really go far or fast enough to test 4th).
This seemed much worse initially when cold. I think it got better as it warmed up. But didn't want to drive too far until I understood what it might be.
Assume this is turbo lag?
Which is nothing to do with limp mode? (that is throttling at 3000rpm?)

Had sort of noticed this on the first 2 short drives. But put it down to the vehicle warming up. And not having been run for over 2 years.
Today it seemed much more pronounced though.
Don't remember this being such a problem before the 2 years of inactivity. There was always a little turbo lag with the 103kw CAAC motor. It had never seemed to change over 12 years of driving it.
Ran another VCDS test when I got home and still have just the same 1 fault code which is EGR related.
But could this be related to the EGR fault?
From a little research so far, it could be a fuel related problem? Which won't always produce an error code?
Is it possible Ive caused a new problem 'while pumping out the 60L of old diesel using the low pressure fuel pump in the tank? And if so what might it be?