Best T4 for camper.

**jets** · 10-01-2009, 10:47 PM

Originally Posted by muz

Hmmm.Some very valid points to consider.Thanks Jets.

BTW do you know if all the T 4's have the same dash and interior fittings, or do the trade vans have a cheaper cockpit?I live in the bush and the nearest dealership is a 4 hour round trip.

Generally yes. The Caravelle though has armrests, velour upholstery & carpets. Overseas models could be ordered with even higher spec. than our Caravelle.

**muz** · 11-01-2009, 03:33 PM

Thanks Jets,I figured it might be like that.I am not too fussy and I would trade interior finish for syncro or manual transmission any day.

So what I am looking for thanks to the help of you forumites is..
TD 4 (2003 prefer) LWB 2.5 TDI with syncro.man.trans. and lift rear door not too many k's over 100,000.

Now if I can find one for well under 20 grand I will be real happy and ready to start cutting with the Sawzall.

**Seano** · 12-01-2009, 08:57 AM

Originally Posted by muz

Just wondering if you have retired and a still doing the round Oz bit?

Retired? I wish!! I've got decades to go yet. I've been lucky with the opportunity to travel this country in the past.....always on the look out to do it again too. Never ever ever had a problem with the so-called axe murderers.

Interior finish on mine is called 'acres of plastic' which works fine for a rural based car. Easy to clean. Ditto for the rubber floor. Canvas seat covers (from Candy Canvas at Poorooka) are a boon

Main thing to watch for on dusted varieties is that the heater controls seize up and can be easily broken (mine is). Whilst easy to replace the part replacement cost is about $300 and the wreckers know this!!

Other thing is the pollen filter - it doesn't work very well after a little bit of and the replacement is expensive - I had Finer Filter build me a dry foam replacement.

Oh and the OE shocks don't survive dirt roads for very long either....but Konis do!

**muz** · 12-01-2009, 12:25 PM

Seano they were good tips and I will follow your advice.Nothing like getting advice from those who have actually made the big trips,especially before fitting out.Thanks.

Anyone else out there with more good stuff to share?

**muz** · 15-01-2009, 09:32 AM

I am having trouble finding a manual with the TDI,LWB,low k's etc.and it was posted here that I should stay away from the auto.I definately would prefer the manual but this might not be possible.So just how bad is the auto and what essentialy is the problem with it - not enough pulling power, or just prone to problems?

?

**Seano** · 16-01-2009, 08:37 AM

The auto has a problem with load and heat.

Basically, unless the autos are babied and serviced religiously then they are at a higher risk of failure.....and they are frighteningly expensive to fix.

The TDi isn't a ball of lightning off the mark either and the auto encouraged one to rev the knickers off it from a standing start - not great.

Given many T4's were company vehicles and/or ambulances so they were driven by people who had nothing invested in the T4......quite a few have been flogged.

I know it's in Sydney but there's a few of your targets here http://www.carsautohaus.com.au/Showroom3.asp These guys do have a bit of a reputation for pricey stickers but it is a buyers market....this 2003 TDi DOKA http://www.carsautohaus.com.au/Messa...%27,%272063%27) seems like a decent buy at $20K sticker if the indicated km reading of under 100,000 is correct

**muz** · 16-01-2009, 05:27 PM

Geez I can see now why the manual was recommended.Tons of info there Seano, thanks again.

**David Morris** · 21-01-2009, 04:23 AM

Having started with a T4 petrol I would watch the engine spec run the engine # through a T4 2.5 Lt data base & see if it is a high compression engine that will only perform on Premium unleaded as mine was 10to1 comp .
If you try & save cash & run unleaded it just wont go when you jam your foot down to jump into a fast lane as the EMS knock sensors just retard the timing & you are stuck with someone up your rear end & not happy .
A low 8.5 comp motor will just go for it when you want it no worries a much happier engine to work with & cheeper to run .
So far the 03 2.5 tdi ex ambo is good to work with & I use 3rd gear lots in the auto round town & towing my van only use D when its a down hill crusing I watch the turbo boost & keep it as low as is practical & still keep up on road speed get best mileage that way to .
Run a ScanGague 2 & that tells me heaps have a 20PSI anolog gague for turbo pressure 12PSI is the wastegate setting & I ant messed with it as I wish to keep this van for some time .
Dumped the heavy monster silencer from the rear & run straight through still quiet inside & out but more grunt when needed .
GPS speed is about 5 Kph down on the speedo reading so you can be safe if you run on the limit as I do & watch the dash ,cruse will vary about 3 kph so its not to bad for a chip .
ABS works good as dose traction control havent been stuck off road so far it waddels through slime no worries & being FWD it goes where you point it .Leaves Jap vans for dead in bad going .
Learning to live with it & ti's funny ways .
TC

**ROVA** · 08-02-2009, 06:13 PM

New here. Just read this thread and am very interested in what's being said. I told myself I wanted a turbo diesel next, but I'm not sure now based on price of fuel and maintenance costs. The impression I get, is that the '97 2.5l petrol auto (158,000 kms) I'm looking closely at buying might not be the best combination to get? Should I really choose a manual rather than the auto?
I'm looking at a Trakka 7 passenger camper, not an ex cargo or ambulance. I've owned an Audi which had the 5cyl engine (love that growl) and it seemed to work pretty well. But an Audi weights a LOT less than a van. Any help greatly appreciated.