2011 t5 multivan starter relay

[ozgti]

Would I be correct in saying that to get to the starter relay, I need to remove the battery and get to the Junction box that's under all the crap under it?

Background :
I put the obd11 on and the starter relay intermittent fault is showing and I can't start the van. It will click in the steering column, but that's it.

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

[ozgti]

Cancel that had the nrma out and they said it's the ignition switch how hard is that to replace??

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

[Seano]

Cancel that had the nrma out and they said it's the ignition switch how hard is that to replace??

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

If it's anything like the T4...it depends on whether you follow Volkswagen's service instructions or the majority rules of the internet...

[Husky310]

Mine will turn the barrel all the way to the glow plug symbol then goes solid. Take the key out and try again and it will start. quoted over $600 to replace the ignition barrel reusing the coded key part.

[The_Hawk]

Mine will turn the barrel all the way to the glow plug symbol then goes solid. Take the key out and try again and it will start. quoted over $600 to replace the ignition barrel reusing the coded key part.

That could be that pesky pin I talk about in the other thread causing issues.


*****************


There is two parts, they key bit and the bit it turns underneath. To get at them you have to remove the steering wheel (and airbag) then cut out the shear bolts. If you get that far, the rest is easy

It's actually not too hard a job, I've rebuilt the lock barrel on our T5.1 here, although sadly no pictures of the process. I used a reco/rebuilt part of the UK fro $60 delivered + my time.
Multivan Ignition Barrel



Part 10: 6RO 905 865 <- ignition/starter switch if you want to try replacing just that bit.
Set of Parts 11: 6RO 905 851 X (X being the different variant, you will need to check which specific one you need ... I *Think* F is for auto and B is for manual... but then there is a D variant too... not sure). In any case, I used the B guts to rebuild my F variant and it's been working ever since.

Part 13 is the barrel itself, if you need this it's harder since to keep using the key you have to custom order it to suit. (107 905 855 XX)

Most shops just want to order the parts new and drop them in, probably a good approach since it should be plug and play, but it's a few hours work so at that point you may as well put in a known good part rather than screw about... of course if you DIY all that labour is free! (ish).

[ozgti]

I can't get this barrel section that turns the switch out.l of the steering lock. Any ideas?

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

[The_Hawk]

I just pulled the old one out of the box (yes I'm a hoarder of all the old parts in case I need one sub piece).

It looks like you need to press in the button in the middle to drop an internal gate piece out the way to get it out. Maybe try twisting at the same time??


Here is a quick video I did up showing the inside parts moving:
T5 Ignition barrel internals - YouTube

Have you taken off the ignition switch itself? It's just the two little screws (mine were filled with red stuff I had to scrape out first) to get the black plastic piece to come off. Then you can push and turn from that side too:



I will say, those little pins I talk about in my other thread were a pain, they kept getting loose in there causing me issues which ultimately led to me not putting one of them back in. I remember screwing about for so long to get the barrel out, this piece should be pretty straight forward.

[ozgti]

Tried that. I'll give it another go. I've got everything out that I can, it's just that piece that insets through the steering lock mechanism that doesn't push through.

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

[The_Hawk]

aahhhhh I think it's down to that pesky second pin!


There are two spring loaded pins near that part. The shaped one sticking up *should* stay in place and slide in/out as you rotate the barrel and I don't think is your issue.

That second one next to the piece. That one gets pushed home when the key is inserted and turned to unlock the steering lock. Without that pin in there the steering lock still engages and does its thing BUT!!! if you were to gain access to the column you can manually push that button in to disable the steering lock. But being spring loaded as you twist the wheel it would re-engage again anyway. If you can happily pushing that button in and it's bouncing back, I'd say the pin is loose and causing drama.



It should sit in this hole:


I believe that it's possible to over-rotate the mechanism when it's out of the car and let that pin fall out, that then binds everything up and it's a crap fest of shaking, knocking and cursing to get it out... which I did multiple times

As I said in that other post, I ended up not re-installing that particular pin and have no adverse effects and three years later it's still working fine.


Here is some videos from that other post which show someone them coming apart... although they make it look stupid easy which wasn't my experience... again I think all down to that steering wheel lock, locking pin.

YouTube

YouTube

YouTube

[The_Hawk]

Was anything actually damaged or not working? Or was it just the switch itself? While that ship has long sailed at this point, technically it's only those two screws that hold the plastic ignition switch module in place, you don't actually have to pull the lock apart at all (he says with the benefit of hindsight and having pulled it all apart).