2.5 TDI Transporter BPC 2009 info thread

[OziBeerMan]

We bought this a few months ago. 2009 4 Motion with the 2.5 Turbo diesel. After reading your story I'm hoping as hell it's been serviced properly. Has a full service history, 1 owner, 180K klms. And it wasn't cheap having already been converted to a camper.

[Greg Roles]

Should be fine, these things are like a Panzer tank when going, you just need to watch for the common issues:

Oil and water mixing ( water pump leak ), airbox back pulsing ( cam wear ), exhaust manifold leaks from warping / cracking, and if ever you take the cam out, I'd consider the injector bridge to hold those toggling injectors still! Keep the auto gearbox cool if you have one and do partial fluid and filter changes often! Keep up your engine oil changes, and given the dodgy plated bores I'm running Lucas upper cylinder lube each tank full.

My van is going like a trooper now, but given how much is new in my god damn engine bay, you'd expect that!

[hotballs]

Hello Greg. Thanks for writing such a comprehensive summary of your experiences.
I have to replace the cam and lifters on my BPC motor too. At the beginning of your post on page 2 after replacing the cam and lifters you state you had to prime the fuel line. was this because you did some removal of the fuel system that is required to access the cams? And you also stated that it fired up and ran , noisy but ran. A few pages further you couldnt get it to run again, so i am just wondering what the time line was?
cheers

[hotballs]

I also read a bit about priming the lifters. Can you explain what this is and if its necessary on this engine?

cheers

[summersky]

I’m in the process of changing the water pump and oil cooler and noticed serious amount of oily gunk built up on the intake manifold and on the intakes in the head. What’s the best way to clean the intakes on the head without removing it?




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[Greg Roles]

For a cam swap no fuel priming really necessary, just don't let the side mounted tandem fuel pump drain entirely. If it does, fill it back up with diesel best you can once back in place with a syringe or something. Air can be a pain to purge from the injector system, so simply avoid adding any as much as you can.

I had multiple issues at the same time, a straight cam and lifter cap swap should be straight forward, just make sure you line the old cam notch up with the head, drivers side with the lobes up at 10 and 2 o'clock, take pics, and put the new cam in exactly the same way. Timing is bloody everything.....

[Greg Roles]

I’m in the process of changing the water pump and oil cooler and noticed serious amount of oily gunk built up on the intake manifold and on the intakes in the head. What’s the best way to clean the intakes on the head without removing it?




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I'd start with lots of degreaser, and use a scraper and then oven cleaner on the really baked on / can't reach stuff, only leaving it a few minutes tops, not the 10-20mins for an oven! Sodium Hydroxide reacts quickly with Aluminium and makes Hydrogen gas....

[summersky]

Thanks Greg. I ended up using degreaser and a pressure washer for the intake and throttle body after scraping as much as possible.

As for the inlet ports on the head, lots of scraping and rubbing with a rag wet with thinners. Not perfect but certainly better than before.


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[Greg Roles]

Time to block or reduce that EGR, and add a decent catch can, even a China Provent 200 is better than nothing, I find only a thin, dry coat every year with that. Still needs a clean, but it's much easier.

[summersky]

Time to block or reduce that EGR, and add a decent catch can, even a China Provent 200 is better than nothing, I find only a thin, dry coat every year with that. Still needs a clean, but it's much easier.

They’re next on my seemingly never ending list. Though the catch can seems easy enough to fit. After some brief research the EGR delete/reduce seems there’s more to it with regard to the ECU…

Anyone on here that’s on the Gold Coast that can help?


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