Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 15

Thread: SWCM change now van pulls to the left.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Mt Martha, Vic
    Posts
    136

    SWCM change now van pulls to the left.

    So today I fitted the new steering wheel control module and as expected had to reset the steering adaptation and calibrate the steering sensor.

    All is fine with the steering wheel buttons and everything is working as it should.

    Unfortunately the van is now pulling to the left.

    I'm assuming I have upset the wheel alignment, probably when removing the airbag as this is done with the battery disconnected and no power steering. You have to force the wheel around to be able to get to the airbag latches for removal.

    I guess my question is does this seem likely or could I have incorrectly calibrated the steering angle sensor? Im not really sure how the steering wheel sensor works do would appreciate some comments.

    Thanks.
    Using Tapatalk

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Brisbane QLD
    Posts
    1,304
    Users Country Flag
    if it didnt pull before you changed the wheel and control unit and now it does then try another recalibration of the steering angle sensor G85 on a flat surface. you wont havd changed the wheel alignment my moving the wheel without power steering. the steering angle sensor is very sensitive...
    VOLKSWAGEN TECHNICIAN - 16 YEARS OF PAIN..
    VCDS CODING- FAULT DIAGNOSIS - PRE PURCHASE INSPECTIONS- REPAIRS
    9W2 BT KITS -$300 - 9W7 BT KITS - $450 - CANBUS UPGRADE $150
    BRISBANE / GOLD COAST

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Erskineville, NSW
    Posts
    7,593
    Users Country Flag
    As above. There's no change to alignment settings when you remove steering wheel.
    carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic
    I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Mt Martha, Vic
    Posts
    136
    Thread Starter
    Thanks

    Is there a way I can do the calibration without disconnecting the battery first to bring on the steering wheels MIL?

    It has also been suggested that I have not aligned the steering wheel to the spindle correctly. I am pretty confident the markings on both line up.

    If they didn't line up would that not cause the van to steer off the road when the wheel is straight? Currently when the wheel is straight the van travels straight it's only when I let the wheel go the van steers left a lot.
    Last edited by Horace01; 06-10-2014 at 09:49 AM.
    Using Tapatalk

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Mt Martha, Vic
    Posts
    136
    Thread Starter
    The plot thickens...


    I reset the steering angle sensor G85 a couple of times and it has made no difference.


    On further discussions with my other half the following information was devolved...."I did drive over that big speed hump thing down the road without slowing down, and there was a bit of a bang. Do you think that may have done something....I didn't want to tell you about it."


    That trip was to the local shops the morning before I change the steering wheel!! Her car is some a big arse SUV and she never slows down for speed humps. Anyway Im assuming thats whats knocked out the alignment and as it happened after I had last driven the car and before I changed the SWCM I was not aware of any issues.


    I have just got back from the wheel alignment guys and they told me they have done what they could but the van still pulls to the left. They guys comment was "all Euro cars do it, its just the way it is....." When I mentioned it never use to do it he just looked at me a shrugged his shoulders......


    I have a copy of the measurement printout:


    Camber Left initial measurement -0°16" Final measurement -0°16"
    Camber Right initial measurement -0°44" Final measurement -0°45"


    Individual Toe Left initial measurement -1.1mm Final measurement +0.2mm
    Individual Toe Right initial measurement -0.7mm Final measurement +0.3mm


    They have obviously adjusted the Toe but said the camber is not adjustable.


    Can somebody please confirm if these measurements seem normal, or within normal parameters? Ive had a look at the information in ElsaWin but I really dont know much about suspension measurements.


    Thanks
    Using Tapatalk

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Erskineville, NSW
    Posts
    7,593
    Users Country Flag
    The camber should be adjustable by moving the subframe. Most aligners refuse to do it.

    It's pulling because there is more -ve camber on the R than the L. They need to move the subframe to the LHS a bit.

    Why haven't they given you the caster figures? That will also make it pull.

    If they don't know what you are talking about, ring around until you find someone that does. No point you paying for their learning experience.

    Ralf at TruTrac should be able to sort you out.

    Have you tried swapping the wheels L to R at the front (hub to hub)?
    carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic
    I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Sydney/Canberra
    Posts
    5,523
    Users Country Flag
    It looks ok.

    There's another rest you can do of the rack as well, from memory. The steering angle sensor is only part of the equation. You may need to calibrate the rack's end positions and dead centre position.
    '07 Transporter 1.9 TDI
    '01 Beetle 2.0

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Erskineville, NSW
    Posts
    7,593
    Users Country Flag
    Also, why have they given it toe-in? Most FWDs are toe-out
    carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic
    I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Mt Martha, Vic
    Posts
    136
    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by brad View Post
    The camber should be adjustable by moving the subframe. Most aligners refuse to do it.

    It's pulling because there is more -ve camber on the R than the L. They need to move the subframe to the LHS a bit.

    Why haven't they given you the caster figures? That will also make it pull.

    If they don't know what you are talking about, ring around until you find someone that does. No point you paying for their learning experience.

    Ralf at TruTrac should be able to sort you out.

    Have you tried swapping the wheels L to R at the front (hub to hub)?
    Thanks. I'm aware of the subframe fix and figured either they didn't know or its not something they do.

    Castor 10° LHS +6°28'. RHS +6°32'

    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
    Using Tapatalk

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Brisbane QLD
    Posts
    1,304
    Users Country Flag

    have you recalibrated G85 since the wheel alignment? i find that on most cars after a w/a you dont need to but you get the odd one that after a perfect figure wheel alignment it drives crap..then after re cal of G85 its all good again...
    VOLKSWAGEN TECHNICIAN - 16 YEARS OF PAIN..
    VCDS CODING- FAULT DIAGNOSIS - PRE PURCHASE INSPECTIONS- REPAIRS
    9W2 BT KITS -$300 - 9W7 BT KITS - $450 - CANBUS UPGRADE $150
    BRISBANE / GOLD COAST

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
| |