Amarok front wheel bearings

[ahebron]

Hi has anyone replaced the front wheel bearings on their Amarok. My 2014 auto 4 motion is making a hum when cornering right. It could be the road surface or tyres or bearing.
What’s involved in bearing replacement on these. I am ok with working in my vehicles, last wheel bearing I did was on a L323 Range Rover.
Thanks
Adrian

[Suncoaster]

In my experience of over 26 vehicles, wheel bearings are characterised by a constant hum or sizzle through the steering. The only way to pin it down is to jack the vehicle up, spin the wheel by hand and listen for the rumble. I'll leave the advice re replacing them to someone who has worked on an Amarok, but it's a pretty standard job on most makes. Cheers-John

[Newkidontheblok]

In my experience of over 26 vehicles, wheel bearings are characterised by a constant hum or sizzle through the steering. The only way to pin it down is to jack the vehicle up, spin the wheel by hand and listen for the rumble. I'll leave the advice re replacing them to someone who has worked on an Amarok, but it's a pretty standard job on most makes. Cheers-John

Suncoaster is on it. Remove the wheels then rotate disc by hand. If rotation feels rumbly, it's the bearings. Leaving the wheel on to perform this test makes this check difficult as wheel mass masks the symptoms.

[ahebron]

Today I replaced the front left wheel bearing.
Elevate your Amarok and secure it safely.
Remove the wheel
With the brakes on undo the bolt in the centre of the hub, its tight so you will need a bit of leverage.
Remove the caliper, disc, disc shield, unplug abs sensor and remove the sensor.
Hand the caliper up out of the way, I used a length of welding wire hung off the coil spring.
There are 3 nyloc nuts that need to be removed but from factory these have been loctited so localised heat will be needed to remove then. The ball joints also have a T40 inset into them to help stop the ball joint spinning.
To seperate the tapers of the ball joints I did the classic hit with 2 hammers on both sides at the same time to shock the taper free.
Steering joint and top joint will let the upright fall free so be ready.
I tapped the stub axle out using a hammer shaft then fully released the upright with hub and bearing.
As the whole assembly was tricky to get into a press we drifted the hub out of the bearing while I held the upright and a mate used a hammer and drift. The front inner race of the bearing came out with the hub and this was removed by carefully cutting it with a cutting wheel on an angle grinder close to the hub face and hub shaft then using the correct cold chisel it should split and be easy to remove.
To remove the remainder of ghe bearing from the upright it was pressed out in a 20 ton press, no idea if it could have been done on a lesser tonnage press.
Clean the faces that are going to have the bearing pressed in with a bit of wet and dry and a squirt of crc to lube it.
Make sure the bearing is going in square and you might have to start it with a gentle taps of a hammer on an drift of the right size.
Once it has started squarely it was onto the press and pressed in, new circlip is put in place then carefully tapped into its groove to makesure it is seated nicely.
Using an appropriate sized spacer that supports the back of the upright the hub was pressed into place till it stopped moving.
Reinstalling is a reverse of removing but I cleaned up the threads were I could and heated thr loctite on the ones zin couildnt while I wound the nuts on, I probably should have fitted new nuts but didnt have any. Clean everything with brake cleaner.
Tap the centre cap out of the wheel and fit the wheel then put the Amarok back on the ground in park (if auto) with handbrake on.
As the bolts for the hub to axle are stretch bolts you need to fit a new one and this came with my bearing.
The info I found said it goes to 150Nm then 180 degrees.
150Nm is max for my torque wrenches (110 lb/ft)
180 degrees is easy to set but I have an angle gauge so used it.
Setting this is scary as you are stretching the bolt and need a lot of leverage to do this
Centre cap back on and job done
Sorry no photos as I wanted to get the job done and didnt fancy cleaning my hands every time I took something off so I could use a camera but it is a simple job

[Newkidontheblok]

Today I replaced the front left wheel bearing.
Elevate your Amarok and secure it safely.
Remove the wheel
With the brakes on undo the bolt in the centre of the hub, its tight so you will need a bit of leverage.
Remove the caliper, disc, disc shield, unplug abs sensor and remove the sensor.
Hand the caliper up out of the way, I used a length of welding wire hung off the coil spring.
There are 3 nyloc nuts that need to be removed but from factory these have been loctited so localised heat will be needed to remove then. The ball joints also have a T40 inset into them to help stop the ball joint spinning.
To seperate the tapers of the ball joints I did the classic hit with 2 hammers on both sides at the same time to shock the taper free.
Steering joint and top joint will let the upright fall free so be ready.
I tapped the stub axle out using a hammer shaft then fully released the upright with hub and bearing.
As the whole assembly was tricky to get into a press we drifted the hub out of the bearing while I held the upright and a mate used a hammer and drift. The front inner race of the bearing came out with the hub and this was removed by carefully cutting it with a cutting wheel on an angle grinder close to the hub face and hub shaft then using the correct cold chisel it should split and be easy to remove.
To remove the remainder of ghe bearing from the upright it was pressed out in a 20 ton press, no idea if it could have been done on a lesser tonnage press.
Clean the faces that are going to have the bearing pressed in with a bit of wet and dry and a squirt of crc to lube it.
Make sure the bearing is going in square and you might have to start it with a gentle taps of a hammer on an drift of the right size.
Once it has started squarely it was onto the press and pressed in, new circlip is put in place then carefully tapped into its groove to makesure it is seated nicely.
Using an appropriate sized spacer that supports the back of the upright the hub was pressed into place till it stopped moving.
Reinstalling is a reverse of removing but I cleaned up the threads were I could and heated thr loctite on the ones zin couildnt while I wound the nuts on, I probably should have fitted new nuts but didnt have any. Clean everything with brake cleaner.
Tap the centre cap out of the wheel and fit the wheel then put the Amarok back on the ground in park (if auto) with handbrake on.
As the bolts for the hub to axle are stretch bolts you need to fit a new one and this came with my bearing.
The info I found said it goes to 150Nm then 180 degrees.
150Nm is max for my torque wrenches (110 lb/ft)
180 degrees is easy to set but I have an angle gauge so used it.
Setting this is scary as you are stretching the bolt and need a lot of leverage to do this
Centre cap back on and job done
Sorry no photos as I wanted to get the job done and didnt fancy cleaning my hands every time I took something off so I could use a camera but it is a simple job

I use the grinder on both sides of a reluctant bearing to persuade them to let go as I don't have a press. Would this work?
Shame you couldn't do the photo walk thru.
I'm with it now. You pressed out the bearing shell. I punch those out. One side at a time.
Great info.