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Thread: Where to buy engine parts from??

  1. #1
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    Where to buy engine parts from??

    Hi all, i am currently rebuilding a 1.6 engine from a mk1 golf. The engine will be going into the back of an offroad baja bug.
    Im wondering where everyone buys their parts from? Online preferably!
    Im after some new cam followers, performance cam and gaskets seals ect.
    It will be running a single 45 dcoe and short buggy exhaust, i have all the adaptor plateand converaion flywheel so all thats holding me back are engine parts.
    Thanks Darren. (Oh if anyone has any rebuild tips please share)

  2. #2
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    Techtonics Tuning is always a good place to start for performance induction bits and pieces. Autotech will also give you some good stuff such as valve springs and some mildish cams. There are other cam manufacturers but these are the common two sources. The USA has a huge market for 8v gear due to the ABA motor being so common.

    For any oem stuff that's broken, best bet is vwheritage, as they give you free shipping for orders over 250AUD. Anything you can't find, eBay search the part number and it will usually return something.

    Any reason you're using the STD 1.6 rather than a 1.8 or 2.0 out of a Mk3?
    77 Mk1 GLS 2 door - That sinking feeling
    76 Mk1 Swallowtail 2 door - Replace that BMW & 76 Sweetheart

  3. #3
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    Rego purposes... the car still maintains a 1.6ltr vw engine. (Same as factory 1976 beetle)
    That and the fact that i have the engine here and it will be simple to wire up being carb and dizzy.
    However once the car is up and running for a while i would love to build somthing more potent!

  4. #4
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    The 1.6 is a poor base to build a performance motor. It can be done but it's much cheaper to modify the 1.8 and 2.0 motors and you'll get better results.

    The bigger motors have a different head/block design so you can't swap parts with the 1.6 so any work you do to the 1.6 can't be transferred to the other motors.

    When you're swapping motors Rego allows you a percentage increase in horsepower and going to a standard 1.8 or 2.0 over the 1.6 won't break the rules. The GTI 1.6 put out 110 hp and the 2.0 out of a Golf MK3 has 115 hp. Getting 150 hp out of a 2.0 is much easier than a 1.6.

    Or you could get the buggy through rego with your (standard) 1.6 then put in a bigger motor later. They are hard to tell apart unless you're a Golf nut and know what you're looking for.

    I've run 1.8 and 2.0 motors and bigger is better. The extra torque turns a reasonable car into something really fun to drive.

    I know someone who spent a lot of money on his 1.6 boring it out to 1.8, hot cam and modifying the head. It's quick but for the $3000 he spent I could have a 2.0 that would leave it for dead. If you're serious about sticking with the 1.6 I could ask him if he wants to sell his 1.6 as he's talking about going 2.0 one day.

    Cheers

    Paul

  5. #5
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    Thats what its going into! The car is very moddified, will be driven daily so im not out trying to build a race engine, however i do want somthing that goes well!
    The gearbox is a 3 rib 002 from a 1600 kombi, for anyone interested this is how the ratios work out with 33" tyres. As you can see I do need some low end power at least from 2000rpm on for the slow speed offroad sections.


    I am stuck with the 1.6 block for now (not the best i know) but im happy with 100hp. In a bug the standard aircooled 50hp 1600 goes well enough so im more than happy with double! Plus its being done on a semi budget and i would like to use as many of my parts as possible.

    So the block is now pulled down and im in the process of measuring/cleaning/inspecting parts. Will upload some photos as i go!

  6. #6
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    So at 9000 rpm you can do 320ks.

    Standard 1.6 is good for 75hp. With a webber and extractors expect 85 to 90hp. Add a cam and you're looking at 100 to 110 but you'll need a mild one to keep the power down low.

    There is a racing MK1 in England that has a 1.6 block with a 1.2 crank and then bored to take it back to 1.6. It revs to 12,000 and is as quick as the 400hp Rovers it races against but I hate to think how much money was spent to get it that way.

    Looks like a fun project!

  7. #7
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    If it must be 1.6, grab yourself a mk4 1.6 engine. They came factory with 101hp. Alloy block with a short stroke and crossflow head to boot. All tuning parts such as cams and valves from Mk3 and Mk2 cars will fit this engine also. Carb manifold will need to be sourced from overseas though. They also required an electronic ignition as there is no distributor
    77 Mk1 GLS 2 door - That sinking feeling
    76 Mk1 Swallowtail 2 door - Replace that BMW & 76 Sweetheart

  8. #8
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    Standard 1.6 is good for 75hp. With a webber and extractors expect 85 to 90hp. Add a cam and you're looking at 100 to 110 but you'll need a mild one to keep the power down low
    Thankyou, this is rather helpful! So curious as to what the difference is between the standard 1.6 and the gti eg engine is?

    What about using an amr500 supercharger drawing through the dcoe carb?
    I had an aircooled engine similar to this, never got around to putting it in anything though
    Last edited by buggy man; 01-11-2015 at 01:27 PM.

  9. #9
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    I believe the 1.6 gti engines had a heron head to achieve that power due to the increased compression ratio. Must have had pistons to accommodate also.

    Drawthrough would be awesome but might get a little crowded on that side of the engine. Also something like a SC14 would probably be better as an amr500 would run out if puff very quickly.

    If it were me, I'd run a SC14 on a crossflow head, simply for the packaging aspect of the whole thing
    77 Mk1 GLS 2 door - That sinking feeling
    76 Mk1 Swallowtail 2 door - Replace that BMW & 76 Sweetheart

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Browneye View Post
    I believe the 1.6 gti engines had a heron head to achieve that power due to the increased compression ratio. Must have had pistons to accommodate also.

    Drawthrough would be awesome but might get a little crowded on that side of the engine. Also something like a SC14 would probably be better as an amr500 would run out if puff very quickly.

    If it were me, I'd run a SC14 on a crossflow head, simply for the packaging aspect of the whole thing
    Love where this is going haha has anyone experimented with an sc12/sc14 on an 8v??

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

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