Uh oh.....Rusty Floor

[dubstar]

Basically, I had to take the mk1 to work yesterday when we had the huge downpour in Melbourne (there's a longer story here, but lets stick to teh topic).

I got home and felt the carpet and it was a little damp, which I expected. So I lifted up the carpet and underlay to let it dry out. However, I found some rust that will need treating. Pics to follow tonight.

On the good side is that most of the bitumen sealer crap is easily chipping off, so I should have a stripped floor fairly soon.

I plan on doing the full POR15 3 step process. What I would like to know is, what are people doing for sound deadening/underlay? The OEM stuff is quite thick, but I think it would be best to throw in some new stuff. Thoughts:

1) Use this stuff. Two layers of sound absorbing underlay separated by a noise barrier of mass loaded vinyl:Sound Deadening Underlay Offcut Suits Replacement Moulded CAR Carpet Fitting | eBay

2) Use this stuff. A layer of butyl bonded to traditional jute underfelt: Soundproofing Felt - Knox Auto Carpets

3) Use Dynamat/Extrememat/etc and then std underlay on top.

I'm no a fan of number 3 as it seems counterintuitive to stick something to the floor of the car that could trap moisture and condensation.

Help!

[Lima]

It's not a rusty floor unless you can check the road conditions from the driver's seat.

[eri_12]

I por15'd my passenger side floor which has some rust issues. It is great stuff! My std underlay was in excellent condition so I just put that back in.

[dubstar]

I got the bitumen stuff off the front floors. It chipped off easily, but there are some further parts that will require a heat gun. The rubber pads on the front wheel wells, to the right of the pedals, are going to be pain in the arse











There's no holes, which is good, but will take some work.

[Stanton]

Use the factory underlay just fix the waterleak.Just don't scrape the rust too much let por 15 do its work.
A lot of mk 1 water leaks come through the windscreen,fit a new rubber and don't try and seal it with silicon, only use mastic.

[Peter Jones]

That's not too bad, you've caught it in time. Bit of work ahead of you but at least no welding!

Another place you can get leaks is the seam across the firewall, check in the engine bay that the seam sealer is all still there and in good condition.

Leaks from that seam fill up the kick plate area in the footwell and get under the carpet.

Check all the rubber plugs and cable grommets in the floor and firewall too.

Fixing the leaky screen will save your fuse box too.

[funkamedic]

Apparently dry ice is great for helping to remove the rubber sealer stuff. I haven't tried it myself but I assume it makes it harden, reducing adhesion to the body. Like Pete said, if there are no holes then your floor is in pretty good nick all things considered

[dubstar]

The photos make it look far worse than it is. The old unerlay is pretty worn in the footwelss. Maybe i'll just cut out the bad parts and add some new sections

[polski_ogurek]

Apparently dry ice is great for helping to remove the rubber sealer stuff. I haven't tried it myself but I assume it makes it harden, reducing adhesion to the body. Like Pete said, if there are no holes then your floor is in pretty good nick all things considered

I used dry ice on mine. Basically it hardens. And u can hear it cracking and moving. After a couple mins with dry ice on it, just run a scraper or something flat under it and it chips off. Almost no effort required.

Sent from my galaxy spaceship

[GeorgeMK1]

Just wanted to touch base on the por15 process. Strip it to bare metal, marine clean, use metal ready (phosphate?), wash off with water, then paint with rust protection paint.

Is that the right process? Also, I used a Heatgun for the deadener and worked great