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Thread: Preen's Mk1 GLD

  1. #131
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikinoz View Post
    I have a bar on the green car that is straight steel RHS with 2 flanges welded, why can't it be straight?

    Anyhow. I would be interested to see what you come up with. The ones Tim selling look pretty and shiny.
    To be honest I wondered if it needed the bends. I will investigate this. If it doesn't need bends, then it'll be REALLY easy.

    APR Tuned | KW Suspension | INA Engineering | Mocal Oil Control |
    Website: http://www.tprengineering.com
    Email: chris@tprengineering.com

  2. #132
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    it doesnt need bends,
    i think alot are made with bends so it sits slightly lower then the box and sump.
    Which means you will tap the bar first before the sump.

    Im heading out to shed in a min, so will take a picture of mine
    <space for rent>

  3. #133
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    Dang, got sidetracked and actually put the brace on car LOL

    Here is pics, not fitted and fitted.




    By looks of pic, i think if it was straight it might be very close to gearbox, and speaking of the box, yes i know it has oil all over it ... the sill around the clutch fork bit has shot itself. I got a spare on shelf, to lazy to fit it and change oil
    Last edited by GRN_VAGN; 05-07-2011 at 03:05 PM.
    <space for rent>

  4. #134
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    I bent mine( twice actually) , I think the mount tabs are off the top of the rhs( from memory ) on your mik so it drops down a little. It's a good idea if your not building them car specific to put some adjustment in it. As with the two I've built they have both been different to bentley specs.

    Quote Originally Posted by Preen59 View Post
    I would have gotten wood from the picture message you sent me.. But I was sniffing Nitro, so i already had it. Hahaha.

  5. #135
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    The ones I've built for my Golfs are straight. I use 1" square section tubing 3" longer than needed to touch both bolts holding in the control arms (1.5" overlap at each end). To this I weld a piece of flat 1/4 inch plate at each end (approx 2" x 2.5") sticking up from the tubing, not out so it looks like a dodgy 2 headed axe. The holes at each end are drilled just far enough away from the square section tubing to allow a socket enough room to get on the existing control arm bolts. Very easy to make and it doesn't require any threaded bits to make it fit because it's measured and drilled to suit your car.

  6. #136
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    I could powdercoat a few of em at work if you were closer!

    That mint red UK Cabby that is/was for sale had a perfectly straight bar, looked homemade (the same way I'd make it).

    Trying to find the picture of it!

  7. #137
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    Quote Originally Posted by sports racer View Post
    The ones I've built for my Golfs are straight. I use 1" square section tubing 3" longer than needed to touch both bolts holding in the control arms (1.5" overlap at each end). To this I weld a piece of flat 1/4 inch plate at each end (approx 2" x 2.5") sticking up from the tubing, not out so it looks like a dodgy 2 headed axe. The holes at each end are drilled just far enough away from the square section tubing to allow a socket enough room to get on the existing control arm bolts. Very easy to make and it doesn't require any threaded bits to make it fit because it's measured and drilled to suit your car.
    Good for the DIYer, but for a mass produce item no..
    I took the lower bar off my green one, and put it on the beige today. and i had to wind out one end a little to make it fit. im guess its flexed more over the years.
    <space for rent>

  8. #138
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    I've made a few of these using dimensional data from a Golf Mk1 engineering drawing I found on the NET ages ago:



    The critical measurement is 683mm centre to centre between the front lower control arm retaining bolts - make your brace to these dimensions - don't measure you car as it's quite common for Mk1's to be out of alignment (or so I've read). My car and my brothers Mk1 were spot on and the lower brace made a noticeable difference to the front end on Bro's car.

  9. #139
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    Golf got a wheel alignment today. Doesn't understeer anymore. I kinda figured that was half the problem at the time but posted the info anyways. It steers better now in the wet than it did before in the dry! ha. Got my bent rim fixed and back on now too. No more scabby rusty one.

    Gimme some time as i've been really busy, but i'm keen to make a few stress bars if people are interested. Function over form for me, but i'll make sure they look good. I'll look into powder coating them too if people like.

    APR Tuned | KW Suspension | INA Engineering | Mocal Oil Control |
    Website: http://www.tprengineering.com
    Email: chris@tprengineering.com

  10. #140
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    On the chassis brace - I have made 3 of these and have ended up making them straight because its easier. I use a length of 35x35x3 RHS, and 2 bits of 50x50x5 angle. The 50x50 ends cap the ends of the RHS and the other leg of the angle is where the hole is drilled. The angle can be about 75mm long, and so the brace sits a bit lower than the level of the holes.

    I also drill it to 683 and use whatever means necessary to bend the car into place to get the bolts in. The worst one i ever did was my old GLD, it was more like 686 between centres. Once I'd pulled it back in and the bar was on the car felt brand new to drive.

    just for you mk1 lovers



    PS i can do a stress analysis if anyones interested
    Last edited by gldgti; 06-07-2011 at 02:54 PM.
    '07 Touareg V6 TDI with air suspension
    '98 Mk3 Cabriolet 2.0 8V
    '99 A4 Quattro 1.8T

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