Performance upgrade options - 2.0 ADY or stealth JH?

[maxmg]

Hey hernan it's max the engine is going in this week, thanks again for everything (really saved my ass). In regards to the costing, I definitely think you're right, by the time things are said and done the cost will be much higher than first anticipated. I'm not planning on doing it any time soon, hell I just want to get the cabby running for now. I'll slowly gather parts when they come up online and eventually down the road hopefully I'll be able to source a mk1 hard top 3 door to do the swap into. I think I will grab the knock sensor system, having the option there is always nice and I can always resell it if I go for a full 2.0 swap rather than just the block. In regards to the police issue, I guess it's probably fine. So long as they aren't looking at a ford or a holden, most highway patrol guys do seem kind of clueless.

[eltonking]

I put a 2L block in my mk1 about 2 weeks ago now.
Took me two days, but could have done it quicker if I wasn't waiting for paint to dry
I reused my 1.8L head
I got the 2L given to me for free, and personally wouldn't spend more than $150 on one if I were to source one personally
All parts for the swap I got from TT Tuning for ~$300 delivered (inc. new clutch, head gasket, block off plate, dizzy adapter etc)
Reused existing fuelling setup (carbs etc) as well as all other ancillaries
Don't see why it should cost you any more than $500...
Also I had no prior experience in rebuilding an engine to that degree (short block), but have removed/installed engines in/out of mk1s a few times before

[maxmg]

That's awesome, I have seen a few 2.0's on ebay but they're all 300+ without accessories. Did you use the stock 1.8 exhaust manifold? Is it 4-1 (toilet bowl) or 4-2-1? How did you deal with potential detonation issues?

[eltonking]

Go to the wreckers and get it out of a mk3 yourself. Also gives you a trial run of removing an engine before you work on your own car. I've got 4-1 extractors. Clears fine. Currently the car is in getting tuned on the dyno, bit of pinging as expected going up 200cc in displacement they're not jetted correctly and are running lean as of yesterday.

[roccodingo]

That's awesome info roccodingo
I understood most of it but I'll quickly recap to make sure I understood it all.
So keep the JH head and do a full machine job on it,( machine only what is required ) chuck it on an ADY or similar Mk3 2.0 litre block.

In regards to K jet (CIS?), why switch back to basic, is it easier to work with? ( hugely simpler, you can pretty well tune it yourself with a mixture analyser and pressure guage )
I'm running CIS lambda at the moment, so going to basic K-jet would mean ditching the O2 sensor? ( yep ) Would the emissions then be handeled by recirculating the exhaust gas? ( no need to do that either, straight out the tailpipe )
I'm completely lost on the info about the 1.6l dizzy's . I know why the drive gear needs changing to fit the ABA block, but confused as to what the benefits of that model are and what you mean by the electronic version. ( distributor advance curve reprofiled to GTI spec which appears to have faster advance and better retard parameters, check for auto electricians in your city that can do this ) Also how do you get it reprofiled to 1600 GTI specs ? Electronic version has no points, uses hall effect to trigger the plugs firing. coil has more spark output giving a greater quality of energy to the plug for higher cylinder pressures, no point wear seeing there is no points )

I understand all the larger block problems you mentioned and the engine mount stiffness. Limited slip diff would also be a dream, but it's a long way down the track ( fair enough )

That's good to know about the knock box cars only being 16v it makes sense. ( sorry , bumm info. Certain 8 valve cars also ran them. The knockbox can be run independantly of the CIS - E or Digi fuelling control just be aware there are Numerous knock boxes available )

Let me see if I understand this, so instead of using a knock sensor system you limited the amount that the timing could advance, in order to stop any detonation problems?

I've found a guy that will sell me all the knock sensor components from a 16v scirrocco, ( yes George ) would it be worth going that route? These are the parts of the knock sensor system, and here is some info I found on wiring it up. Another advantage I see to that is that it comes with a larger throttle body than the stock one that I'm currently running. ( He shows a dizzy from a Mk3 as its not a 16V distrbutor. you dont need all the rest of the kjet control either. Just grab the throttle body from a Mk2 . Knocbox set up from the US should top out at about $180 and buy a new knock sensor if you go down this route )

Again, thanks heaps for all the info

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