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Thread: My sort-of restoration

  1. #281
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    Quote Originally Posted by GRN_VAGN View Post
    the wire from coil should only be a trigger wire for your relay... Did you wire it up with a relay like i said?

    If so the coil wire trggers the relay, relay opens and shoots 12v from battery to the pump.
    Yep i wired it just like that. The dude said it still wasnt rigth that way and better power it from the inside loom. It was wierd because when he re wired it jsut for the trip home, the fuel pump worked alot better and sent it more fuel....

    I guess ill have to try both ways and see what the difference is, if there even is one.

  2. #282
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    you probably had a loose connection... id imagine a straight 12v from battery would be much more reliable then tapping into 30yo loom.
    Maybe you got the wrong relay? is it a 30 or 40amp one?

    Also it could be where you mounted the pump, from what i can remember from my research when i did it they would much rather push fuel longer distance then suck it.

    Either way ya getting there, dont give up!!
    <space for rent>

  3. #283
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    Nah its a 30amp one. Not only that but i have replaced the loom to a pretty new one too so all the wires are fine. ( boy was it hard doing the loom).

    It was strange as it worked for a month now perfectly fine the way i had set it up, and as soon as the fuel ran out the problems came in. I have exams this coming week, however next week i'll try to wire the ignition of the relay to the loom. hopefully that would make a difference. The other strange thing is he said "dont run a return line", but wouldnt that f*** up the carby....

  4. #284
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    Hello everyone, its been a very long time since i've posted, but thats due to lack of inspiration and time.

    However i have still been working on this little car through out the weekends. I've been doing alot of research into 'sound deadening' this car and i have taken out the seats carpet etc and hopefully will begin. My plan was to buy some MLV or Dynamat like the profesionals use, but its waaay over my budget. Its not really an option of 'should i sound deaden the golf or not'. Ahahaha its quite loud and NEEDS it. Im thinking paint on sound deadener for underneather the wheel arches to kill the tyre noise. I've read somewhere that bitumen ALL over the car helps alot too?

    Anyway i've spent several days behind after school to work on a few things for the golf. First i've made a box type thing that goes on top of the carby to allow me to put a pod filter on the car. Its a bit rough looking that moment but it does work. It needs a spray and it'll be done. However i had no where to put the filter to get enough air, so i began cutting out the grill (which i've always wanted to do). I've done one side of it but now the other is hard and im going to atempt a few methods to see which is best.

    I have also made a sub box at school, to fit in my boot. Its 4cuft, however with the port, its less. In the picture it looks huge, but its not really that big. Anyway here are the pics







    - Orange Golf mk1 LS, 1.8 5speed, 32/36 - sold
    - Golf mk1 Swallowtail rebuild, completely stripped
    - Brown U.S import 81 cabby
    - 88 Honda crx b18cr

  5. #285
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    Good work mate!

    In regards to noise I did notice your Mk1 has a rather large exhuast.

    Maybe just whack on a smaller 2" system to cut that noise but keep some good flow.

  6. #286
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    The sub box looks sweet as bro!! it doesnt look like 4cu'ft though. What sub or subs have you decided on? Put wood glue on the edges and smooth it down with your finger.
    MK1 GLS 3door
    A4 B7 2.0T

  7. #287
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    check out your local Clark rubber George (if you guys have clark rubber over there!?) they have a similar product to dynamatt for a price that's much kinder to the wallet

  8. #288
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    Quote Originally Posted by dubdan View Post
    check out your local Clark rubber George (if you guys have clark rubber over there!?) they have a similar product to dynamatt for a price that's much kinder to the wallet
    That's seriously awesome to know! I'm gonna hit them up for some too.

  9. #289
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    Quote Originally Posted by Water Boy View Post
    Good work mate!

    In regards to noise I did notice your Mk1 has a rather large exhuast.

    Maybe just whack on a smaller 2" system to cut that noise but keep some good flow.
    Its only the tip thats so big, the rest is actually quite small, but none the less is still to big. I was going to put my stock exhaust back on, but the back muffler has a hole, am i just able to weld it up and chuck it on?

    Quote Originally Posted by Spyda View Post
    The sub box looks sweet as bro!! it doesnt look like 4cu'ft though. What sub or subs have you decided on? Put wood glue on the edges and smooth it down with your finger.
    Cheers mate, it took a sh*t load of calculation to work that out. Its 4cuft all together, with the port its less than 4 cuft. I am running two pioneers 400rms each, the w307d4 series. I am actually worried that this box wont be that good its a L shape port, i should have made the port in the middle as if you look at the pic, one sub has more space behind it than the other, and i think that could result in each sub moving differently to the other? And yep i will be running wood glue on the inside next class i have

    Quote Originally Posted by dubdan View Post
    check out your local Clark rubber George (if you guys have clark rubber over there!?) they have a similar product to dynamatt for a price that's much kinder to the wallet
    I've actually read that somewhere, and im definately going to give it a check. However i dont think i've ever seen clark rubber here, there is a 'bridgestone rubber underlay' on ebay for about $60 for 14sqM which looks quite good. Think Jaycar also has some good deadener, ill do some more research though.. sound deadening is the number 1 priority after my Master Cylinder.
    - Orange Golf mk1 LS, 1.8 5speed, 32/36 - sold
    - Golf mk1 Swallowtail rebuild, completely stripped
    - Brown U.S import 81 cabby
    - 88 Honda crx b18cr

  10. #290
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    Quote Originally Posted by GeorgeMK1 View Post
    Its only the tip thats so big, the rest is actually quite small, but none the less is still to big. I was going to put my stock exhaust back on, but the back muffler has a hole, am i just able to weld it up and chuck it on?



    Cheers mate, it took a sh*t load of calculation to work that out. Its 4cuft all together, with the port its less than 4 cuft. I am running two pioneers 400rms each, the w307d4 series. I am actually worried that this box wont be that good its a L shape port, i should have made the port in the middle as if you look at the pic, one sub has more space behind it than the other, and i think that could result in each sub moving differently to the other? And yep i will be running wood glue on the inside next class i have



    I've actually read that somewhere, and im definately going to give it a check. However i dont think i've ever seen clark rubber here, there is a 'bridgestone rubber underlay' on ebay for about $60 for 14sqM which looks quite good. Think Jaycar also has some good deadener, ill do some more research though.. sound deadening is the number 1 priority after my Master Cylinder.
    The shape of the port doesnt matter man, its the volume thats important, if you wanted it to look symetrical then yeah in the middle would have been better. What thinkness MDF did you use? You might have more of a problem with the box flexing. I guess i have to see it in the car before i belive its 4cu'ft, lol. You should have cut the holes for the subs before putting it all together. It should get prity damn loud in there man.
    If you need some cheap amps im looking to sell the ones in my car.
    Here is a 4cuft box designed for a 15", note the single bed that its on:


    Yes Jaycar also have some good deadener but its not realy cheap for the amount that you get, it smells and its supers sticky. Have a look at how the different deadeners work, the sticky stuff like dynamat is designed to reduce the vibration of the stuff you stick it to, thats why they say to use a heat guna and press it down all over basicly so that it fueses with the panels. Where as underlay or not sticky stuff is designed to stop the sound waves getting through.
    Last edited by Spyda; 16-08-2010 at 11:30 AM.
    MK1 GLS 3door
    A4 B7 2.0T

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