Agree with machining the end off the drive shaft. Has been done on Dad's Mk1 to fix problem.
I dont fully understand it myself, but I (we) saw the damage, and fixed the problem on josh's car.
Did i mention camber as well? having negative camber will also increase the effects.
I think the end of the DS is at such an angle that it hits the flange.ie the end of the DS is along the line from say 2o'clock to 7 o'clock, and the flange is vertical. at normal height the end of the DS would also be (roughly) vertical (perpendicular to the 'horizontal' DS) now when you lower it the DS tilts up, and then the end of the DS moves from being vertical to 2-7oclock. and it's the upper corner (near 2oclock) that fouls on the flange.
It's hard to explain without using my hands or drawing it. But that's how i understand the problem, and how I could best think to describe it atm. hth
edit: I asume you might also run into this problem if you raise the car too much. (maybe)
Agree with machining the end off the drive shaft. Has been done on Dad's Mk1 to fix problem.
do you know, or can you ask James, how much was he took off?
i dont think so - otherwise it would happenb when you jacked hte car up!
i used to bust the seals on my old GLD from cornering before i had a lower strut brace. fitting the lower brace prevented the chassis from bending in too far thus moving the DS end towards the flange - also remember that the suspension is compressed on that side while cornering.
the length of the DS is much further than that of the control arm, so for any given suspension movement the control arm traverses a larger angle than the DS - i think that the DS hanging around the level position is the source of the problem.
the outer CV joint allows no axial movement through its construction, meaning all of the axial play in the shaft is taken up in hte innder CV - hence at all points at which the DS is forced in, this is a risk to the inner seal.
just thinking - i dont think the DS angle is so important - its the control arm - since if the control arms are a long way past horizontal (too low) the position of the wheel/axel begins to move closer to the middle of the car (think when control arms are dead level, the wheel is as far from the gearbox as possible)...
'07 Touareg V6 TDI with air suspension
'98 Mk3 Cabriolet 2.0 8V
'99 A4 Quattro 1.8T
That would be it. The control up being so high up and the DS and control arm having different 'travel' arc's. I'd say you've hit the nail on the head and taht's probably what is causing the problem (other than being too low) I'm pretty sure we're on the same page now. I didn't think of the control arms effect on the system before. it's all relavent to each other though.
I guess ball joint spacer and tie rod flip kit could also fix this. so could being higher and also cutting the DS down, like James's dad did.
EDIT: When i meant raised the car, I meant raise and drive it, like with longer springs & shocks, jacking up the car wouldn't do it, cause you can't drive the car when it's jacked up/
Dad's Mk1 isnt very low compared to many cars but he has 3 degrees of neg up the front and coil-overs. I know it was only a puffdenth taken off.
dusty dusty dusty
the dusty xp
Looks hot, good work
<space for rent>
Looking good mate, might have to have a go with the mk3 steelies myself
1979 Mk1 Golf GTi
1994 Mk3 Golf VR6
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